Supporting Member betoney Posted March 4, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted March 4, 2019 11 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said: I agree that first removing the swing would make shock service easier but in "a few minutes"? Please detail the steps you follow to remove the swing arm without including having to pull the wheel , rear brake, chain guard, caliper and pads, ABS sensor, and brake hose attachments, which themselves take more than a "few minutes". LOL I guess it’s all a matter of how fast you can work. When I take the swingarm off I always remove the wheel and brake, the last time I did it to grease the bearings, the entire procedure from putting the bike up on the center stand to reassembled, ready to ride was just over 40 minutes. 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 4, 2019 Premium Member Share Posted March 4, 2019 "because you can't go out and ride it because it's -20 degrees Celsius outside" Also chuckled ! I wish it was only -20C (-4F)! LOL My shop though is heated, air conditioned (when it's 36C / 97F with 90% humidity), carpeted, has a frig, mega lighting and outlets every 3 feet plus the ceiling, a sink, urinal, HandyLift, front and rear Pit Bull stands, 20 feet of work bench and 5 feet of tool boxes, a NoMar tire machine, compd air, a window, tunes, WiFi and laptop, a couch and easy chair. Oh, and has room for my 3 bikes. It's rough to work in there...but at least it's detached from the house so I can't hear the wife... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 4, 2019 Premium Member Share Posted March 4, 2019 11 minutes ago, betoney said: I guess it’s all a matter of how fast you can work. When I take the swingarm off I always remove the wheel and brake, the last time I did it to grease the bearings, the entire procedure from putting the bike up on the center stand to reassembled, ready to ride was just over 40 minutes. OK Speedy. I'm old, anal retentive with OCD, and clean everything before, during and after disassembly with a tooth brush. At least the torque wrench in my right wrist speeds things up. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 4, 2019 Premium Member Share Posted March 4, 2019 27 minutes ago, kmev said: Or it puts just enough added weight on the front end. Uh, yes, that's one more result but physics and geometry are a multifaceted science often clouded in black magic...and I'm also an engineer who has been playing with bikes (and raced) and ultralights since the early 70s, so I've learned a thing or two. I love a short swing arm, steep geometry and my as in the air, makes stoppies SO easy! Wag that tail! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmev Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 2 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said: Uh, yes, that's one more result but physics and geometry are a multifaceted science often clouded in black magic... ..which I why I gave it a shot, and it worked for me! 😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 On 2/21/2019 at 2:15 AM, captainscarlet said: Having just read Cruizin's post on the low level of traffic on Tech tips I thought I would describe my recent work fitting a K-tech shock. This is not a particularly difficult job and many have done it before me. I will add a few pictures later but for now I will describe the process involved: Bike on centre stand or paddock stand. The shock is held in place by two bolts. The upper bolt includes a bolt, a nut and a washer. The lower bolt includes a bolt, a nut and two washers. Remove the upper bolt first, access through the hole in the frame. Working on the right side of the bike use a socket and extension (socket size to follow) to remove the nut. I put duct tape around the hole in the frame to avoid scratching it. I found I could loosen the nut without holding the bolt on the left hand side. Carefully remove the socket ensuring the nut doesn't fall out of the end of the socket. Next you need to get the washer off the bolt without dropping it. I chose to use a small telescopic magnet and grab the washer before pulling it through the hole in the frame. Using a punch/screwdriver tap the bolt out from the right hand side and remove the bolt with your fingers on the left hand side. This can be a bit fiddly as various cables and tubing on the left make it difficult to get at the bolt. At the rear lift the swingarm/rear wheel so that the nut and bolt holding the bottom of the shock are above the top of the swingarm allowing you to get a socket on the nut. I put duct tape on the swingarm to stop me scratching it with the socket/extension. Undo the nut on the right hand side and remove the nut and washer. To remove the bolt, lower the swing arm again and use the hollow space on the inside of the swingarm to get the bolt and second washer out. Carefully lift the OEM shock out rearwards over the rear hugger.......and throw it in the bin! 😋 Fitting the new shock is in classic style the reverse of removal however it may vary depending on whether the shock you're fitting has a remote reservoir etc. In my case the new shock had no remote reservoir. Slide the new shock into position from the rear. Raise the swingarm/rear wheel and slide the bolt and washer into the base of the new shock and attach the washer and nut on the right hand side. Tighten the nut on the right hand side to 44 Nm. You will probably need to hold the bolt on the left hand side to get the nut tight. Raise the swingarm/rear wheel and hold the shock so it slides into position in the upper mounting. I pushed a screwdriver in from the right hand side to hold the shock in place whilst pushing the bolt in from the left hand side. The bolt may be a bit stubborn to get in. I used a punch/screwdriver to drive the bolt home. Place the washer back on the upper bolt from the right hand side. I used my telescopic magnet again to carefully slide the washer over the bolt. Attach the nut to the bolt from the right hand side and tighten to 44 Nm. To prevent the nut falling out of my socket I put a little dab of grease inside the socket. Again you will probably need to hold the bolt on the left hand side to get the nut tight. Stand back and admire your handywork before covering the bike up again because you can't go out and ride it because it's -20 degrees Celsius outside. 😱 Below is a picture of the new K-tech shock next to the OEM shock. The K-tech is much lighter and also of a smaller diameter than the OEM. CS Well done, thank you!! 2 Yamaha FZ-10 Forum Yamaha FZ-07 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamarider Posted April 4, 2019 Share Posted April 4, 2019 Just finished useing this write-up to replace my stocker with an ohlins 335. Thanks for taking the time for the write-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new1709rider Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Kudos to captainscarlet for his write up on this installation. I finally installed my K-tech Razor today after putting it off for a couple of months. The captains technique was ok for removing the original shock, but there was no way I was going to be able to "fiddle" that front bolt into place. I couldn't even get the front of the shock to go into position. I finally gave in and removed the fuel tank. That made all the difference! Actually had room to get in there and place the bolt and tighten it up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted March 21, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted March 21, 2020 11 minutes ago, new1709rider said: Kudos to captainscarlet for his write up on this installation. I finally installed my K-tech Razor today after putting it off for a couple of months. The captains technique was ok for removing the original shock, but there was no way I was going to be able to "fiddle" that front bolt into place. I couldn't even get the front of the shock to go into position. I finally gave in and removed the fuel tank. That made all the difference! Actually had room to get in there and place the bolt and tighten it up. I have done it a few times without removing the tank, while doable it IS a pain in the @$$. Removing the tank is more time consuming but makes it so much easier to access the top bolt. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted December 13, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted December 13, 2020 On 2/21/2019 at 3:15 AM, captainscarlet said: Below is a picture of the new K-tech shock next to the OEM shock. The K-tech is much lighter and also of a smaller diameter than the OEM. CS This is a great write up. The photo above shows that the K tech shock ships with a different ride height than the stock shock. The bike turns slower with the K tech shock as shipped. It's also easier to install shorter. Now my problem - my 2 month old K tech is leaking! Does anyone have any thoughts besides calling K tech USA? What could cause it to leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 16, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 16, 2021 uh, warranty issue with seals but technically it may be considered a "wear item"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 I'm looking into getting one myself. I think it has a 1 year warranty. Don't wait, find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted January 17, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 17, 2021 3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said: uh, warranty issue with seals but technically it may be considered a "wear item"... It's at K tech USA. Waiting to hear back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Where are they, did you ship it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 17, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 17, 2021 I got my K-Tech razor r A couple of years ago from Forks by Matt but he's disappeared so Orient Express in New York is the national importer and Service Center When it comes time for a rebuild which may be relatively soon I'll either do it myself or there's an outfit in Beloit Illinois that will probably do it who rebuilds my Penske 3-way for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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