betoney

One thing I have found with changing the oil on this motor over the past 78,000 miles is check the level when you change the oil, run it a few minutes and let sit and then check it again, because the level will change. Run it a few minutes and let it sit again and re-verify the level then fill a few more ounces if needed. I have never needed to add a drop of oil. As @Ride365 mentioned, I too keep mine filled more toward the top of the sight glass vs the middle. Of course all measurements are made with the bike upright and level, NEVER on the side stand.

I am always impressed how the engineers can fit everything inside the frame rails and how they can get the panels to fit in a layered fashion. It can be sort of a puzzle the first time you have to remove and reinstall them. Learn the process so you can routinely maintain the air filter, even though the service schedule recommends checking every 24,000 miles (correct me if I have that mileage wrong) I service mine about every 5,000 miles on both bikes and they ALWAYS need cleaning at that mileage.

If I could offer a suggestion, - if you enter the park from the East and exit through the West, make a loop out of your route and include one of the FANTASTIC Sierra passes when heading back home. Sonora, Ebbetts and Carson passes are ALL amazing. If you plan it right you can include Monitor Pass from Markleeville to Topaz Lake which is a MUST RIDE road if you are in the area. Carson / Monitor Pass - https://maps.app.goo.gl/kMxm22zi8e7yJSc69 Sonora / Monitor Pass - https://maps.app.goo.gl/6aiHTmshCdNEbgcQ9

If you find a screen that works well, don’t change it for winter, just wear an extra base layer unless you need the screen protection for heavy rain. A screen that works well on this bike is kind of like finding a unicorn. I really like the smaller screen so I don’t change it anymore. When fall arrives, my summer riding gear gets put away and the winter gear now gets full time use.

All years have LED lights. I always ride with high beam on, aimed down so both lamps are on.

There are several unused 12v power plugs behind the screen, all of them switched on with the ignition. It makes adding accessories much simpler than wiring anything back to the battery. I used the accessory plugs to wire in a GPS, USB outlet, running lights and a volt meter.

Same thing happened on my 2015, I replaced it and there was no improvement. Do yourself a favor, remove the wind screen and remove the 12v socket and throw it away and wire in a marine grade USB outlet in its place.

The learning phase of the young one will result in a lot of start/stop riding on your part. A simple older smaller displacement bike like Honda CRF230 or Yamaha TTR230 would be the perfect size for following behind and coaching and still have enough power for later when they gain a little confidence and speed. Bulletproof reliability, air-cooled motors and electric start.

2WheelDynoWorks (425) 269-5332 Vcyclenut 239-989-7574 Ivans Performance (845) 268-1212

The good news is modern phone cameras are getting shockingly refined with optional higher tech features than ever before but if you are only wanting point-and-shoot convenience they are also mind numbingly simple to use. Open the camera app, point the phone and take the photo, that's as difficult as it gets. If you have questions with more advanced features or need info on editing photos, the answer to ANY question you could ever have about your phone can be found on Google or YouTube.

I have the same pegs as @roadwarrior showed in his photo, I have no complaints.

I don't use the Zumo model but have used nothing but Garmin models in all of my vehicles for nearly 15 years, they are in my work vehicle, personal vehicle, on my motorcycles,- street and dirt and I wear one on my wrist. I have 'retired' a few models over the years but still currently own 5 different models. I have never used Base camp, I currently use the Garmin 'Drive" app to program my routes into the device and it works flawlessly. Its quick and easy enough to use that I have planned a days ride in the hotel parking lot while getting my gear on. As mentioned, Garmins route you based on the devise route settings, quickest or shortest route but they also have "route shaping" that allows you to touch the screen to add stops or move your current route.

Its interesting, after watching his video, I decided to consciously pay attention to what rpm's I ride at. While on my recent 3 day trip I found myself often in 4th gear up to about 60-ish mph, even on longer highway sections. 5th gear up to around 70mph and rarely used 6th except when on the interstate highway sections or above 70mph. I felt most comfortable keeping the motor around 5,000-6,500rpm under normal conditions before shifting up or down, overtaking a vehicle or using the passing lane were usually 4th or 5th gear up to about 8,500 rpm.

I would think even with standard CC, MOST riders aren’t using it in busy traffic or congested freeway instead using it out on the open highway where you can set it and relax, (maybe I’m wrong in assuming that?). I use CC every time I ride at least once during the ride but not when other vehicles are around me.

If you replace the rear brake switch, do yourself a favor and get a hydraulic switch, it is completely sealed and never gets gummed up with road grime.

The original FJ didn’t come with heated grips and were available as an option for self install, the loop inside the throttle housing sounds simple but was very tricky for me to get correct, the rest was just plug and play.

Ok, so that significantly narrows the troubleshooting down, the 2019 still has a physical throttle cable. If the throttle grip is physically stuck open, remove the cables from the grip (just takes a few minutes) and see if the grip turns, if it is still stuck then it is the throttle tube. If the tube now turns freely then it is from the cable down to the pulley you would check next.

Are you saying that when you twist the throttle grip open that it doesn’t physically return to a closed position? Or that the engine revs up but won’t return to idle regardless of throttle grip position?

As @Heli ATP mentioned, MCCruise is the one you want. I installed one on both my FJ and VFR and they both work flawlessly. I haven’t had one issue on either bike. Expensive but worth every penny.

I had my ECU flashed by 2WDW about 7 years ago and have no regrets but if I had another Tracer or was getting it flashed for the first time I would try Vcyclenut. I am over on the FZ09 forum almost as often as this forum and EVERYBODY over there praises his work. https://www.fz09.org/threads/flashed-by-vcyclenut.71748/#post-948511 Dave actively posts over there and helps other members out. From what he says, he not only dyno tunes the bikes on his dyno buy puts equal or more time into actual road testing and data logging to build his fuel maps for his flash. He doesn't just have a store page but also shares all of his performance results with development and testing.

It does, if you are a supporting member you get unlimited photo uploads, there is no volume or file size restrictions when posting.

It's unfortunate that you are missing Highway 20 as it is spectacular. However the Eastern part of 20 is open and a fantastic ride as well, unfortunately that whole area is suffering from smoke coverage right now, some of it rating as hazardous level.

Last week we had an unseasonably hot heat wave, 100 degrees in places in the Western half of the state and noticeably hotter in the Eastern half of the state. I decided to escape the heat and rode down the Oregon coast to escape the heat - Almost. Oregon has some amazing coastal highways zig-zagging inland between HWY 101 and I-5 going down to the California border, most places out on the coast ranged from cold and foggy to comfortable (55-68F) but once I ventured inland even 20-30 miles I saw 104F on my dash reading several times. The original route was 4 days including a quick trip over the California border with an overnight stay in Crescent City but the wildfires had other plans. Prior to leaving I was constantly monitoring the wildfire reports and Google Maps for road closures, sure enough at one point there was a wildfire on 101 south of Coos Bay resulting in a highway closure followed by several new wildfires between Crescent City and Yreka Ca. resulting in complete closures of CA199 and CA96 all with massive extended detours. My riding time is too valuable to be worrying about detours and avoiding fires and smoke, so I cut out California all together. There was still smoke to contend with in Oregon. I am hoping the smoke clears soon, I'm planning another 3-day ride in Eastern Oregon just after Labor Day. Waldport, Oregon Near Florence, Oregon Near Toketee Falls, Oregon OR138 This smoke makes it look like a foggy November morning Even cutting the trip short I still managed 1200 miles. Trip computer says 47mpg but real world calculations were actually 44mpg.

I just encountered the same thing. I took a 3-day trip down the Oregon coast and even near the ocean it was impossible to escape the smoke, I cut my trip short by 1 day and re-routed due to fire related highway closures. This is zoomed out so it doesn't show all of the smaller wildfires but it gives a good idea of the smoke coverage. Unfortunately, Google Maps have created new map layers showing wildfires and air quality index.

You don’t need a cartridge replacement, just get the forks revalved or buy a piston kit from KTech.