chitown

Er no. But my brake has no cable. Don't forget to lube your clutch and throttle cables regularly a task many of us remain blissfully unaware of. I replaced my original clutch cable with an R1 cable as described in other threads on this site.

What's the maintenance interval? Don't most require rebuilding regularly? Definitely check on cost and availability of a rebuild kit etc. Seems like it might increase weight and complexity but that's only a guess. One reason I might consider such an upgrade might be say an arthritic wrist and this provided an easier pull etc.

Don't have to find a local shop. Have received lots of free advice speaking to shops on the phone. My first couple of upgrades were done by shipping forks and sometimes shock to other parts of the country. Just had to be able to remove and reinstall forks and shock. Over time I learned to service forks myself so no more boxing and shipping but I still call these shops for advice and parts. It adds to the price of course but suspension imo is the top bang for buck upgrade regardless of type or pace of riding.

If it was labeled "engine stop switch" would you use it?

Normally ride without the peak on the AT-950 but did try it up to about 80mph... fluttered a bit but not annoyingly so. Bear in mind that the FJ-09's turbulence varies based on several factors (windscreen, handguards, rider etc) so YMMV.

That's the one. They've been on sale at several US vendors.

Currently using a Scorpion AT-950. It's modular but that wasn't important to me but is interesting to try. It's not Snell rated but that's not important to me either since I consider Snell ratings to be about money and marketing and not safer helmets. It has an inner sun visor which is important to me. Also has an extra large viewport which is turning out to be one of my favorite features. Wanted to try pinlock and it's available as an option. Worked well in a couple downpours last month. Scorpions offer great value for money. Before this I wore a Scorpion EXO-500 for many years. Before that various Shoeis and Arais.

I'm sure all of this will result in soul-searching and positive behavior modification. And, I want a pony.

Yes he did

If you're looking for a 100% exact match you'll likely need to order the Yamaha part. Many parts on Japanese oem bikes are spec'd for the mfg only, or are only sold separately in Japanese and nearby markets. Here's the part number from the '15 FJ-09 fiche: Partzilla Search: 5MT-25398-00-00 Partzilla Search No way I'd spent that kind of money. Adhesive + tape

It's been 20 years so yeah I don't keep up on what you can find as I am happy with adhesive weights taped. I keep some black and silver gaffer's tape around to color match I see ebay results that look like they'll work just fine. Here's another option Clip-On Wheel Weights – All Tire Supply LLC All Tire Supply offer a large selections of Clip-on wheel weights. Clip-on...

When I used an over jacket all of the PVC versions worked but really do hotbox you. I wouldn't use one that didn't come with velcro cinches or similar at wrist and bicep minimum. But yes there is gear that doesn't leak riding long and far so my PVC over wear sits idle in the closet

You can buy clip on weights through Amazon or ebay. Shops avoid them because installing/removing tends to scratch the rib of the rim. Have lost both types while riding... but started taping all weights regardless of type 20 years ago and none have gone missing since then

Motoport air mesh kevlar with liners. Took a tour of the factory examining materials and production, got measured, and decided to order. Custom fit, machine washable, repairable are all important to me. Have used it from 20F-120F. It's been from Invercargill to Prudhoe Bay to the Alps to Isle of Man and beyond. It's been covered in calcium chloride, mud, dirt, etc and machine or pressure washed off mid trip. It was pricey (1300ish for jacket and pants with all options 10 years ago) but in the long run it's been a much better spend than inexpensive southeast Asia off the rack gear. Motoport USA | Custom Motorcycle Apparel Also own a one piece Roadcrafter that is convenient for commuting as an oversuit that goes on and off quickly. Purchased used on ebay and sent to Stich for inspection and minor repairs, upgraded armor, alteration, etc. It doesn't get much use any longer since most of my work is remote these days.

The factory heated grips and Heat Demons produce enough heat to use with Grip Puppies. I haven't tested them per Great White North but have used them down to high 30s ( ~4 C).

If you can remove the grips without damaging them you can reuse them. IIRC mine came off without any damage. But as I never like oem grips I usually just cut them during removal and replace with some pro grip gel grips. Too much heat shrink wouldn't be an issue. You're attempting to put a barrier on the bar that prevents the heat from going to the bar. Unfortunately you can't just add more as eventually it would be too thick to get a grip installed. Fwiw the imbalance is no worse than the factory heated grips and I'm fine with the job the heat shrink does.

And, this may be obvious, but grab a spare for the road kit while you're at it

Just did a week long ride with a group led by a BMW service writer. Fourteen bikes and the only one that broke was a BMW stranding the rider. We made sure he had service to call for his AAA 200 mile ride and left him on the side of the road. Every time I mentioned a couple BMWs interested me the service writer would mouth "Nooooo!" then get back on his 20 year old Honda. If the manual loading figures are as rock-solid as the suggested shift points, chain slack, big fastener torque values... I might wonder about its accuracy, liability fudge factor, etc. If I were to push those limits I'd be giving extra love to the subframe. Strengthening if possible, inspecting regularly.

Bleed, Vesrah pads, that's it IMO.

Mine doesn't reflect my gear at all. Try bumping up brightness. Reposition.

This is really about your experience and just how challenging those trails are. I routinely take all my street bikes down gravel and dirt trails with no special prep, tires, etc. But I am not a smart man.

Sounds like you may need to adjust the pins. "If your Pinlock® lens does not seal all the way around the inside of your visor, the adjustment of your pins might help you solve this...." When do I need to adjust the Pinlock® pins? | Pinlock ← Back to FAQ If your Pinlock® lens does not seal all the way around the...

Since my favorite helmet was discontinued (EXO-500 in 3X) recently decided to take a fling on a modular, the Scorpion AT-950. Scorpion's been dropping 3X from some models but still offer it in this model, has the inner sun visor I can't live without, liked the idea of the over-sized viewport, and... since I've had varying degrees of success with the Everclear shields also wanted to try pinlock. Have tried many different substances on shields and none ever worked long with my heavy breathing. Usually just end up opening the shield then dealing with water on both sides Got my chance to test in some heavy rain with the pinlock this past weekend and it worked well. A downside is that even the clear pinlock definitely limits light. It does come with warnings saying such and that they shouldn't be used at night. That probably won't stop me since it can be removed if necessary. I'm happy with the purchase.

Did a few days up there and Buck's Lake and Quincy-La Porte were tasty as ever. We ended up running a loop clockwise and ccw. The rain came in Saturday and the forecast essentially said "Winter is coming tonight!" so we cancelled the last night in Quincy and headed down 162 in bad rain to the south and west where it was still pleasant. It ended our fun at altitude so I worked my way down to Mariposa (via Little Dragon, Pool Station, etc) and made the slog home Sunday to SoCal easier. While on 20 we ended up behind a winter prep truck and got a nice salty coating. I joked that salty chicken strips were what was for lunch and they do not lie: Random sport bike dude: My 83 year old buddy's CBR1000RR: My FJ-09: Good times!

Yes did this mod. No more/less difficult as any other ABS brake line replacement. Galfers brand, think they only have one model for the full kit but can try to dig out a part number if needed. Slightly better feel than oem rubber lines but no evidence to suggest better performance in terms of distances. Always replace lines on my bikes with stainless when it comes time to do the first rubber line replacement. All have had an outer sheath and essentially are a lifetime replacement. In the long run it saves money because I'm not replacing the rubber lines repeatedly. And the time and labor required to replace lines on an ABS bike is something most are happy to avoid when possible. All new to me bikes get bled right away. Can't count how many times a brand new bike felt much better after a bleed. Also upgraded front pads to Vesrah ZD-248CT and love them.