chitown

If you're going to lay down a chunk of change and might ever need support you're buying the tuner not just the product. Have spoken to half a dozen or more over the years. Independent tuners are often "special" but only one convo ended up in seller nonsense rant and no purchase. As to the products which I've compared on like bikes at rallies and such -- better than some, worse than others. Luckily there are choices. If you want the best try to find baseline and after data collected by the same person and equipment posted by a customer. Much more reliable than the butt dyno review -- and I'm including my butt dyno in that statement

Ivan's Performance Products When good just isn't good enough, we make fast faster! We specialize in... But after speaking to him once I won't ever be a customer. YMMV

Shinko is Korean for "lowside". That's a joke Will say after helping a friend mount Shinkos they performed well but needed more weight for balancing than any tire I've ever mounted. QC may have improved since as that was a few years back.

if nobody from Garmin shows up there's a forum for developers here Developer - Garmin Forums Developer

Michelin Power front + Road 2/3/4 rear is my preference.

+1 Also have a friend without a finger tip. Just don't see enough upside for it to make any sense. Of course, I've given up lubing completely with great results so riding more lubing less

Mine is 2015 as well. 0, 21.4, 31.5, 51.5 -- is that three levels or four?

In addition to those... yocracing.com. A real Yamaha dealer still owned and operated by a local racing family. Bought the FJ-09 there but was buying parts from them for my other Yamahas long before that. Even with local sales tax and shipping they usually beat other online shops. They don't offer free shipping but there's a perpetual discount code "Time To Ride" that last I checked took another 5% off everything. partzilla.com (same as boats.net) Oh, and did the accessory exhaust from Babbitt's. At the time they weren't charging sales tax in my state and had a pretty aggressive price.

+3, also use a strap. Lifting hasn't been an issue but as I mentioned I redid the jaws with cutting board pieces like in this pic stolen from the intertubez And lemony Pledge tire lube for the win! It's got 1001 motorcycling uses: tire install lube, plastic polish, shield cleaner, all around leading edge friction reducer...

My buddy loaned me his pocket scope. Guess what? Same duty cycle numbers you posted for the Heat Demons is what I got for Yamaha grips +/- 1%. Here's some scope porn from measuring level 10. And, yes, heat sink. I will say Heat Demon's are balanced pretty well with the addition of the heat shrink. I remember when these came with a big ceramic resistor

I have the Harbor Freight changer which has a breaker. While most HF stuff is crap it's done many many changes over 13+ years. At some point I added cutting board material (Target kitchen aisle) to the surfaces that contact the rims. Without the HF would probably just do something like below

Everybody gets a preference. Prefer my heated gear attachment coming out from underneath the front of the seat so that I can attach/remove while astride the bike. Only issue I had installing a Powerlet in the panel space for the cig adapter is that the Powerlet was smaller than the provided hole so there was no purchase to tighten it in place. Made some collars from a couple pieces of black abs laying around the garage.

Just noticed this. Interesting. From where I've seen many installing accessories this may be an area to monitor. My screen is large (Puig) but not very rigid. Was actually a bit relieved to see it flex at higher speeds given how Yamaha put the front end together.

What is a BMW plug? Powerlet sockets can be added where ever you desire. Yes, it will hold up to the stress if properly installed. Be advised heated gear may draw too much current to use the Yamaha provided accessory wiring at the front of the bike. My GPS uses Powerlet so one of the first things I did on my FJ-09 was replace the lh side cig adapter with Powerlet for that. Tiny draw so used one of the available accessory leads. For heated gear would probably mount an additional socket near seat/tank and do my own wiring.

The service manual does call for performing the tests after any bleed. Thus, it's with the new fluid in the system, not for the purpose of flushing. Fwiw have replaced all lines, three fluid replacements, and all bleeds without using those tests nor any issues of old fluid retained in the pump. The system is self-tested each time the bike is turned on and you can put slight pressure on the levers and usually feel vibration. I usually cycle the ignition before putting everything back together after bleeding and make sure levels are unchanged and no codes thrown. And another check of levels after a short shake down ride.

I never drain the tank before maintenance. Disconnecting it is only a matter of a few drips in a rag. Having an empty box or some packing material can make a nice place to sit the odd shaped tank. Avoiding a fill-up just before maintenance is helpful.

+1 on the Gilles.

If that laser was attached to a shark's head I might have to get one If I can't see alignment marks on a swingarm I use a rule with a slide.

Of course several of those posts contradict the Speed Bleeder application guide for FJ-09. Just a heads up.

Depends on the task. Header removal etc. While that can be done on the side stand it's easier with a rear stand. As to OP go slow and make sure it's positioned correctly. Have had some dumb drops in my day but none caused by using rear stands. Have used my stand on my porky FJR many times. Along with a head lift stand at the front. Some chocks work free standing and work well if the surface is abrasive enough. Baxleys and knock-offs thereof for example. But for maintenance they can be limiting.

Have tried some of the less expensive alternatives in the past but they have never held up for me like buying a GS or Yuasa replacement when the time comes. Have been getting 5+ years out of the Yuasas purchased on Amazon. Just recently replaced the FJ-09's nearly five year old battery with one for $106 delivered. Would probably be all over a lith-ion battery -- particularly if we were losing unsprung weight -- but have had to wait for folks to "warm up" before they could start etc. Plus other chargers and such. Hoping if I wait prices will come down too.

On the flip side if you like to keep your new bike fastidiously clean and scratch-free I once read: "You can take any bike you like. Just don't take one you love." :)

I want to deflect some of the junk just a bit more rearward. Was going to make my own extension to the factory unit but snagged one like the first post for about $30 delivered. Didn't expect much and was not disappointed The mesh pieces were kinda sorta hot-glued on and two fell off coming out of the packing. Not complaining. Will ride with it a bit to see what's what then may modify the openings with some abs welding, swap out the mesh to some finer stainless stuff I have laying around etc.

Don't think I've heard of one but it would be interesting. While Buell demonstrated belt setups that work well on a high power sport bike they were integrated designs. Belt width, routing, pulley placement all take real estate which would offset some of favorite aspects of the bike. Need to deal with tensioning. Anything can be done with enough time and money and fabrication but that would definitely be a "because I can not because it makes sense" project imo

You can take pretty much any bike to Alaska. And, up the Haul Road (Dalton Highway). Rider, not bike.