chitown

Diameter (and many other variables) impact speedo effect. Don't know if the statement above regarding the math is correct but if you took every major brand/model of DOT tire in the same size in new condition and measured them highly doubt you'd find more than 2-3% difference in diameter. Other measurements are a different story. Now somebody can make a field trip to Cycle Gear and science the s*** out of this

What they said. Start doing some checks. While various Yamahas I've owned have had different rules for operating the fan based on combinations of sidestand position and temperature I've only checked the FJ with sidestand up while riding. Someone here probably has the exact numbers but fan on mine comes on between 215F and 220 engine temp. Shuts off after a decline of approx 10-15 degrees. Not precise because only casually looked at the engine temp while riding. Typically will be running for me after exiting the freeway at 70mph and crawling through surface street traffic. At least that's the only speed I notice it with my plugs in. No general heat issues for me. Have ridden hard at 109F ambient and many 100F+ ambient days.

That and dark brown color alone doesn't tell me anything.

My Roadcrafter one piece with armor but NO back protector would be a struggle to get into an FJR side case. Fits in my Givi's (46 or 52) fine. But, I always toted my gear inside because of heat anyway. When I can't, if weather is good or parking is covered I run a cable lock through the suit and helmet and the rest goes in the luggage.

So someone won't come to their address looking to steal a nice motorcycle? Personally Identifiable Information (PII) protection? In some localities historically not much has been required to get an address from a plate. While that changed in California some time ago these days a google can often turn up things associated with a plate. And even where it's not legal it only takes one person with the right access that wants to make a few bucks. It's not paranoia if they're all out to get me As for the topic my FJ-09 hasn't been on any ferrys yet but have been on several with the FJR and rentals. Alaska State Ferry, Caltrans Ferry (shortest/smallest ever), Liverpool to IOM, Belfast to Scotland, and North Island to South Island in New Zealand.

Something like this can make finding the hole a bit easier (that's what she...) tho I just use my gloved hand if necessary.

Depending on what you're using to extend the lines... vinyl caps (sometimes called bypass caps) available from auto parts stores, rubber stopper (looks like a bottle cork made of rubber), if the walls of the new hoses are soft a screw can do better and last longer, etc. But, never got much value from extending the lines and checking sync more often than I had the tank off so no longer bother.

Better tires make it stop faster. Bambi comes quick at legal riding speeds My track tires would be less safe than the oem tires on the street.

Buddy from that trip is there now marshaling but he's retired so has the time and can go every year. Did the 2013 IOM. Visited friends in London, rented a bike, back roads to Liverpool, ferry over. On the return trip spent half the day at the national motorcycle museum.

Repeat after me: tires and suspension first. IMO they're pretty crap but fairly predictable. If only commuting would probably use em up but otherwise no regrets tossing them early. Like Roadsmarts the rears are just average and the fronts are easily overwhelmed. No regrets tossing them and replacing with my preferred Michelin Power front + Road rear combo.

It wouldn't be the first time to discover errors in a Yamaha owner's or service manual. Trust, but verify

My cages have gotten a little more standardized the last couple decades on placement. Wish I could say the same of my motorcycles as I'll throw them on for a few cycles when there's an accident or debris causing a sudden slowdown etc. Of the three I've owned with hazards: FJ RH switches, FJR LH fairing panel, Versys LH switches. Course when I get in cars I still want to toggle the brights with a foot switch

Was pretty clear in my manual

The clutch/throttle balance on mine is comparable to the factory grips. Did use the piece of clutch side heat shrink provided in the Heat Demon kit, normally will use electrical tape or similar as I did with the factory grips.

Have yet to take measurements... buddy is still busy traveling etc and didn't leave me his scope that will allow me to get the duty cycle PWM stuff. Will try to get that handled next week. But, have finally wrapped up Spring maintenance and ergos mods so got out on a ride today for a few hundred miles to test. Ergos mods were -- cut down the stock bar max possible to bring hands in and add more lane splitting margin, swapped out Yamaha grips so can use preferred grips and throttle lock again, spun the handlebar clamps and installed the Tusk risers so 15 mm up and 10 mm back overall. Just fine tuning as was already pretty happy for 500 mile days. Ergos mods successful. Heaters worked perfectly and felt as warm as Yamaha grips at 1, 5, 10. Very happy thanks to this thread

Still prefer a dedicated satnav. My phones have usually been more expensive, less hardened against the elements and vibration, and a more critical item to protect while far from home. Like to keep it on my person, on the off chance I'm separated from the bike, can reach it and use it. Redundancy should one device fail. While there are plenty of things I don't like about Garmin and their software still dig their hardware. Lasted through years of goat trail pounding, drops, and exposure. First Zumo still works at 13 years old but have replaced the digitizer with one from ebay and it no longer gets map updates. Still useful and pretty good $/year of service. Picked up a 660LM back when Garmin end-of-lifed it at a healthy discount.

Umm, they slid. A lot. Once or twice at the same time. But didn't drop it. Tires, luck, skill, good company, some of each? They did great other than a few sections where it was total pucker. When sections with calcium chloride get wet they go from sort of a mud skating rink to mud/clay. One nasty construction zone of gravel so large that you could cruise over on the throttle... but then the pilot vehicle stops three times for turning haulers. Large uneven surfaces. Bike sinks/shifts, feet go out, they each sink/shift. Vstrom goes down. Looking in my mirror thinking there's no way I can safely get off and help. Maybe the guy in the car behind him will help? Nope. Drove around him lol. Rider eventually got going again. Good times

You probably will make it but I might go with 3 gallons on the FJ-09. For reference the FJR had a pretty reliable 220 miles before warning light, and my friends Super Tenere was similar. We grabbed cans in Fairbanks. We didn't camp, and had the same motel in Fairbanks going and coming so left some of our gear there for the run up the Dalton. Filled the cans in Coldfoot and didn't need them on the way north but were both on the warning light. Heading south the ST ran out of fuel 10-15 miles short of Coldfoot.

As for crushed marbles, the roads were rough on my tires and we did the most direct route Alcan, Dalton, etc. Ran PR4s on an FJR the entire trip as mentioned in your other thread, including the Dalton. They'd likely have made it there and back but ended up getting new tires when I got back to Washington anyway as the rear developed a leak I couldn't find with my small bottle of soap and looked like it had been beaten with barbed wire.

Adjust vs buy isn't something I've asked myself with a chain. While I might replace early if a long trip is scheduled usually just go by regular checks done while cleaning. There are some basic inspection procedures in most service manuals and online articles that cover checking chain and sprockets thoroughly. At each chain maintenance day I'll follow them - checking all links for smooth operation, visual signs of oring or pin failure, pulling the chain away from the sprocket, checking sprocket teeth, etc. After the first slack adjustment following putting a load on a brand new chain mine usually don't need two adjustments within several thousand miles. Once that happens an order is made for a replacement to have on hand and inspections become even more careful. Chain metal (plates) doesn't deform enough for us to be concerned it's all the other more forgiving pieces that take the wear that will require slack adjustment and once one starts to go slack adjustments will increase and it's a matter of time. Yay! Oil questions! Least expensive in recommended viscosity that doesn't say Energy Conserving || (no good for wet clutches) in the donut label on the bottle. Expensive pic of motorcycle on label optional. Spark plugs don't seem to need replacing as often as Yamaha suggests. Due to limited access started doubling the interval on previous Yamahas with no detectable issues. One of those items that will get done "when I"m in the neighborhood" regardless of exact mileage.

Yep, that's best of all as long as you don't mind spending a few bucks. I'd probably own one by now but plugs seem to last forever for me on modern vehicles. The motorcycles I've changed plugs on have used bare thread terminals, no caps. Now you don't have to MacGruber it. MacGruber -- like MacGyver but drunk!

Just looking around the garage and if my spark plug wrench didn't have a grommet that worked... for removal once loose with the socket, fish out with magnetic pick up tool. The threaded tip of the plug is magnetic. For installing, a piece of scrap vacuum line I had here that appears to be ID 5/16 would work to get it started, finish with the socket.

I have probably three 5/8" spark plug sockets laying around the garage that came with various tool sets. They have a rubber grommet that grips the ribbed body of the plug, not the very tip that it sounds like you're referring to. No problem changing plugs on bikes at the end of many extensions over the years

Wasn't sure if it was a defense or to forestall liability but that's why I'm surprised when someone says a new vehicle is dead on. From Cycle World: Why is My Motorcycle Speedometer Wrong? | Ask the Geek WWW.CYCLEWORLD.COM Motorcycle speedometers aren't always accurate and sometimes need proper calibration. Here's why they aren't always accurate, and how you can correct them.

For many, "because I can" or "I like to tinker" is enough. Have had several bikes I didn't flash. But this sort of post reminds me of posts that can't understand why for many of us suspension is one of the first mods. But I don't ride hard, I'm not a Ricky Racer, I only commute,... If you haven't researched it or experienced it you might not realize there are benefits that are less obvious. Flashed my FJ-09 to spite The Man that tried to put a speed limiter on my motorcycle! What we got to say (yeah)Power to the people no delayMake everybody seeIn order to fight the powers that be J/k it was mostly because I could and periodically tinkering with the bike tamps my urges to buy a different bike every few years. These days I don't throw money at fueling chasing power. Not that there's anything wrong with that, do what ya feel, but skipping a burger and beer is cheaper and more effective for most".