chitown

Actually it would increase warm up time. No, it doesn't prevent the carcass from flexing as designed... you're not even close to that until you exceed the tire's ratings. Will it flex, yes. As much? No. But, unless you're going to post cold and operating temp pressures there's nothing objective about these statements. Even then folks will debate what an acceptable range is because it's subjective. Running 30 on the street would not work for me. The sidewall would not maintain stiffness. Ymmv.

What's the draw? The stock horn wiring and fuse is good for 3A and the acc connections 2A. I don't recommend swapping to higher rated fuses as a general rule but others have done so with ok results. If those don't work, relay under the seat, and as mentioned above just piggyback wiring with the harness. If you think you might need more power in the future can consider adding a block front or rear.

As screens get taller they need to be of thicker/stronger material to resist flex. You can find thicker acrylic shields that will have no flex. However, on the FJ-09 that caused fractures in the bracketry so unless the GT's is significantly different it's a consideration. Flex on screens doesn't bother me unless the screen is developing issues and the Puig on my FJ is doing fine at 20k miles. Someone mentioned breaking off... that might be considered a feature in some get off scenarios.

Flasher relay is under the seat. Swapping is plug and play. customled and tst are popular vendors.

Long time user of 303 Outdoor Fabric Guard for water repellency. It has no UV protection. The Protectant does but it's not recommended by my gear mfg.

My '15 FJ-09 pretty consistently fails to display 5 reliably works for every other gear. Since I find gear indicators superfluous hasn't bothered me enough to address it. Maybe I'll do some cleaning and connection checking next time in the area.

It's not way too high if the tire is rated for it and it works for rider preferences and conditions. Nor is your pressure too low. There are trade offs certainly.

Generally, the weight of the oil is going to impact the rate at which it can flow through the valving. For lighter riders/loads using stock suspension replacing the oil with lighter can make the suspension feel more compliant and reduce harshness. It's a balance and is going to work for lighter riders/loads but will have less benefit as the rider/load gets heavier. Fat guys like me often need to upgrade the valving. Any aftermarket suspension upgrades should come with good recommendations for fork oil based on your desires and typical loading.

Yet to see epoxy but it's pretty common for grip glue to be used which is usually a form of rubber cement. If I think they've been glued I squirt wd40 in to try to soften the glue. Use my pancake compressor with a small tip to help move the left grip off the bar. It's worked on the factory heated grip for me but I had done the install myself and hadn't used glue since it was already a tight fit.

I'd be leery of any remote poster declaring the cause without riding the bike. Mainly because I've experienced it on several different bikes and it's been a result of different causes. On one it was a very worn tire. On another, overloading the rear of the bike. Another was aerodynamics of a top case (regardless of loading). If a light touch on a bar is enough damp(en?)ing to forestall it (and it always has been) not going to spend any time looking for something to fix.

Seriously buying a Shinko and spending the difference on rider training would probably make more sense if safety is that important to you. I love Michelins but not because I think they're more/less safe than other major brands. ------- Yamaha manuals also often contain the warning that mixing tires could lead to an accident. I've never been able to find any data suggesting this is an issue. Have had mfg reps try to convince me and it was always super weak. It's another point that makes me think it was inserted for reasons other than safety. From a safety standpoint I'd rather they add more information on why tread depth isn't the only measure of tire wear. I see weekend warriors riding on very old tires that have nothing left all the time and have to quell my OCD inner nanny.

Because it's written to protect stupid people from themselves. Never ever depart from the recommended shift points or tires or you'll die

See Iron Butt Rally forums, advrider forums, etc for many years. There were so many final drive failures for BMWs in the early 2000s the NHTSA opened an investigation tho I didn't pay much attention given there are Gold Wings and FJRs to be had for that sort of thing

Hmm. It doesn't ride or look like a Diavel to me but ymmv.

Rode the Indian FTR. It's solid but over-priced and the tire choices won't do it for me. But I'm happy Indian is building a more performance-oriented bike and maybe future offerings will be closer to what I want, or an FTR down the road when the depreciation has been covered by somebody else and maybe some rim swaps have been identified.

This. Cheap Chinese doesn't bother me here. I reserve my cringe for those using cheap cast levers and pegs with giant voids in them that will ruin your day in much more dramatic ways.

Yes, it can be pressed out easily from underneath but mine usually has gunk on it (which ends up on my earplugs lol) so adding a "handle" to the top worked better. I think this is wordsmith's pic from another thread:

What norcal616 said. None of my last several bikes had a linear gauge. For many years now use one of the trip meters to track fuel and on any new to me bike make sure to run it till lights start to flash or whatever so I know how much is really in the tank when that happens. Usually that matches the manual. After awhile it's habit.

Heh. I've only watched one rider wear a sidewall. He was good but a little crashy too. With the Roads you get an itty bitty chicken arrow to go with the sidewall arrow

I though that's what the directional arrows were for on Roads

If you're at stock 16/45 110 links now 17/43 is pretty large change. Sprocketcenter will probably recommend changing the number of links to accommodate so make sure to check with whomever you order from to make sure. You would be going from a 2.81 ratio to 2.53, an 11.2% change. Typically I've made about half of that change but it depends on how far you are away from your target rpm/speed now and what you're willing to live with losing for acceleration. For me FJ comfortable cruising rpm is only a bit less than what I"m at 80 mph (per GPS). Swapping the rear sprocket is a bit less involved than front should you end up unhappy with what you're losing down low and going back to stock so I'd start with changing the rear. For me that would be one tooth in the rear, 44, for a 2.3% change. Many sites have calculators to show you the effects of gearing changes.

Many toss it. Like several others, I kept it but made it easier to remove by pushing a tack/screw/etc into the top of it.

Interesting. That Malaysia guide is the first ngk pub I've seen with an application. Was already aware of the dimensional differences. CPR9EAIX-9 doesn't seem to be available from the places I normally buy plugs. Unless something changes I'll be running the Iridiums I have for 40k ish miles.

I'd still be interested in an NGK application source if someone has one. The CR9EIX installed in my '15 have now seen 10k plus in extreme conditions and I'm pleased.

Yep, it helps to know there are directional indicators on the tires and on the rims. IMO easiest way to keep track of front rim orientation is that the slotted wheel sensor rotor must be on the side where the sensor lives.