chitown

Some have mentioned it, you can find a number of threads via search. Haven't had the light on the FJ-09. But, the first Yamaha I owned with an oil level sensor did once. Even tho the manual calls the oil level lines at the sight glass min and max IME they want the level to be only showing a bit below max when checked following the procedure in the manual. Since I started following that rule haven't seen it again.

Also a fan of the two pin SAE connectors as they take little space on the bike and make nice quick disconnects when you have five motorcycles but only one expensive GPS cradle, heated gear, etc. If accessories don't come with them I add my own inline. For those that don't already own a compressor more are showing up with these options lately:

If it's only purpose is the compressor you could just get rid of the compressor's male cig connector and replace with battery clamps or use a female cig-to-clamp adapter which are available on Amazon and most auto parts stores.

Ha! Had a used DRZ400SM that prior owner had removed all the decals from. For some reason that bike got more "What is that?" than any other. My buddy finally had some made up for me just to mess with folks:

If you like Plexus try Pledge. It makes great tire changing lube as well.

Believe so. I'm not near my bike for a few days so can't look. Isn't listed separately on the parts fiche but looking at a couple o2 sensors for sale on ebay you can see what looks like one.

IIRC Yosh doesn't say to remove the rear wheel but I did and was glad to have the room to work. Once everything was in place by hand used a ratchet with an extension from in front of the peg to get the bolt head and end wrench parallel to the muffler to hold the nut.

+1 look at the perches and where the bar begins to taper and you'll see how much you can gain by cutting. In addition to threading the bars if you want to retain the stock setup you'll find the control assemblies have nubs that match holes in the bars so you need to drill new holes or grind the nubs off. Some have used FZ-09 bars, gets you an inch on each side, or gone aftermarket. Search will find you some threads on different options. Also have to consider if any change you make will impact cable/brake lines routing/slack. Tap, handle, tapping fluid should be easy to get at a good local hardware place or order online at mcmaster etc.

Like that idea but might use black Sugru in place of the hook.

Never found it difficult. Poke the rubber doohickey up from the bottom by reaching under the rear seat brace with one hand and grabbing from above with the other.

A ball gag should reduce tranny whine With my normal hearing protection there's nothing so loud as to annoy or cause me any mechanical concern. The clutch basket noise when there's Jersey barrier/k rail/wall immediately to my left is more noticeable than the normal sounds of the bike at cruise.

Modern tires are fabulous in the rain. Love a good rain ride. Have always used Sidi or TCX goretex boots year round. Gloves, have kept dry hands using: plain old gloves plus triple digit rain covers, Held goretex gloves, and a couple of the double gauntlet gloves such as the Scorpion Tempest. Suit: Used to do the over suit. Eventually went Motoport two piece mesh kevlar with zip in liners. Toured the factory and had mine custom made. Since most of my riding is in good weather I live with the inconvenience of having to make the decision to put the rain liners in before I ride or stop and remove to insert liners. But, when they're in they keep me dry. The collar on the motoport was crap so used a wicking neck covering. Also have a Teknic Goretex jacket that motorcyclegear.com sold on closeout for $65. It's a big heavy 3/4 jacket with an additional insulation liner. Terrible venting but great at keeping warm and dry. Just can't stand to use it if there's a chance temps will rise. Last year knew my big summer trip would have a ton of rain but not super cold. And the Motoport is getting pretty old. Decided to try a FirstGear Kilimanjaro 37.5. This is one of the outer-shell-only-provide-your-own-layering style. Laminate waterproof breathable shell. Good venting and adjustability of armor placement is really nice and imo necessary for an off the shelf product. Tons of features. Did the job, kept me dry. It has an included under helmet hood but didn't need to use it.

Someone mentioned cig adapter... isn't the panel stuff wired and fused for 2A? Most compressors I've checked need more. One of my bikes has a fancy one from 'Stich, the other has the cheapest thing available at Walmart with the clamshell stripped off and added clamps for running off battery. Hang it off the bike while running so it can jump and get hot all it wants. Both work and have been used many times after plugging with sticky strings. I like remote goat trails

Doubt I'll buy a GT but in that situation I'd at least try to hold out a year and pick up a used GT. Eating depreciation twice on these would pay for another bike

Turn the music up to 11 Have you tried removing the windscreen completely? Different helmet/closing or taping over vents/openings? Quiet cockpit is relative I suppose. The FJ-09 is a pretty noisy bike with various whines and mechanical noises but not much worse than others for me with regard to wind noise.

Love my Bose ANC buds particularly for commercial flights. They fit in the helmet just fine but would want to thoroughly test if the noise cancelling would deter hearing emergency vehicles. Also, my model (not the latest) has a proprietary rechargeable battery that if I'd need to charge periodically. For now sticking with my Etymotic MC-5s.

The medical column that ran in Motorcycle Consumer News back in the day had some fairly lengthy discussions of rider hand numbness and wrist angle. One task on any new to me bike is attempt adjustment of the bars and/or controls such that there's as little bend as possible in the wrist at my most-common riding position. Another article focused on the neck angle. A rider may have a helmet they've used for years without issue but changing bikes usually means changing riding position, different forces from aeros, and move pressure from the neck bar to a new position. Just another item to consider in sources of numbness.

Have both. 2005 FJR and 2015 FJ-09. Both have been on long tours, daily freeway commutes, canyon carving, etc. Short and fat, 5'8, 250, 29" inseam. Haven't done two up on either. Right knee replaced, left knee probably will be next year, due to arthritis/weight/sports injuries. But my riding butt is strong like bull Run a tail trunk on each, no sidebags (used them on FJR on Prudhoe Bay trip, but not since), and for trips a dry bag on the rear seat. Typical pleasure riding is 400-500 miles per day avoiding interstate and looking for roads that tilt the horizon. Both required suspension upgrades and windcreen changes to suit. FJR got up and back bar risers for my trex arms. FJR came to me with a Mayer saddle. I'm one of the few here that is fine with the FJ-09 stock seat. FJR has stock fueling/exhaust. After putting 10,000 miles or so on the FJ-09 added the Yosh Y system and flashed ecu. As much as both bikes do the same duty for me they provide a different experience. The FJ-09 has a shorter wheelbase, ungood aeros, more noise, more vibration, hot rodding bundle of fun. The FJR is that porkier, less busy, sport sedan. FJR is quieter, even before the FJ-09 got the aftermarket exhaust, partially as a result of the plastics but also the engine, shaft, intake noise, etc. The triple is more vibey but they're good vibes. Triples might not be for everybody but I'm in love with them and how they deliver some characteristics of what I've loved in my fours and twins. With that wheelbase, protection,, smooth lump of an I4, neutral weight bias etc the FJR will always feel less busy than the FJ-09. In inclement weather the FJR protection means one less layer but of course that switch flips when the temps rise. The FJ-09 needs an electric windscreen button like the FJR so badly. Really every bike does because I like touching it. Hope I don't go blind. FJRs got the range but for a tank-to-tank rider like me an extra 40-50 miles isn't a requirement. FJ-09 has more legroom for my 56 year old arthritic left knee and replacement right knee. And if I move the seat to high position even more. You mentioned fun and the FJ-09 wins that for me but whenever I put on the boots and think about which to take there's never a bad choice.

Looks like the design has changed. My clear Puig touring screen's lower section is solid black. It's a pretty ugly barn door of a screen anyway. But I like the way it works. If it really bothered me would paint the inside of the lower section.

So far it's standing up fine and hasn't been difficult to keep clean.

Mine has been on for several thousand miles and I don't appear to be contacting it. YMMV. For reference: I ride in US size 10 boots, usually peg is at midpoint of boot and the heel doesn't reach the muffler, if tilting the horizon a bit peg is under toes/ball and boot is higher than the muffler.

36-42 ? In which case you've not had the best out of the Fj09. Also, why would you ever use a tyre on a heavy bike (fjr) without stiffer bias side walls ? Over inflating to compensate makes the tyre harder, which equals less grip, longer warm up times with a shorter lifespan. Same for your fj09. But heh, we all have our own way of doing things I guess. Try the lower pressures 36-33 and see what you think. Firstly, I'm over 198 lbs with gear. But I don't blindly follow the manuals in any regard. Shift points, chain slack, etc Other than dangerously low or high pressures would encourage everybody to read the tires, track hot vs cold temps, ride, adjust, repeat -- and find what works for them. That's how I arrived at my opinion. Started with the recommended then experimented. And, yes, I've gone lower with the FJ-09 but not since the first week or two of ownership. Those pressures have worked well for me on many different bikes and varied conditions. Whether on the way to Prudhoe Bay, heading to the Cat & Fiddle on minor roads, riding the NC500 around Scotland, or just riding local twisties and commuting. For a frame of reference I'm at the tail end of the fast group at most trackdays and on the street like to tilt the horizon but don't ride faster than I can see. A lot of experience. Lucky enough to know local riders who are better than me mechanically and as riders which has steered me in the right direction far more than online sources. Have to disagree with you on added pressure reducing lifespan (which could refer to tread depth, being gassed out, etc). That's not my experience with DOT tires. In fact the opposite. But lifespan isn't really a goal for me with pressures. Re the FJR, many of the tires I prefer aren't available in a GT. The Yamaha recommended tires aren't to my liking. Any differences in warm up, grip, hardness are all still well within the category of my likes. Tire grip and profile comfort/familiarity offset the benefit to running the GT at a few pounds less cold. Ends up being a wash in terms of feel and feedback imo. A few pounds plus or minus doesn't impact DOT tire heating to the point most riders would notice IME. If what you're suggesting works for you by all means use it. The only disagreement you'll get from me is when we get to labeling something best or proper. Only a Sith deals in absolutes (ok that was a joke, I just like the platitude). Rock on.

Have run 36f/42r cold on the FJ-09 its whole life. Including PR4. The FJR usually needs a few more in the front to maintain sidewall stiffness if not using a GT model. You can always google some fun weekend reading and youtubing on checking and targeting differences in warm and cold tire temps, reading tire wear indications of over or under heating, etc.

+1 to what others said re fit. If Snell is important to you (it isn't to me, consider it marketing bs) that's going to be a factor. Last time I checked they still weren't certifying anything with an internal visor. Personally, will never own another helmet without an internal visor for street riding. Like the value for money with Scorpions and have been using them for several years now.

New oil is quieter.