Supporting Member Popular Post dazzler24 Posted June 15, 2021 Supporting Member Popular Post Share Posted June 15, 2021 Just wanted to share my experiences in installing a new chain and sprockets on my 'vintage' 2015 Tracer which I'll say up front went without any real problems for me. (Some of this info in other posts within the forum.) Did I need to change the chain and sprockets? They were getting worn but to be honest, not really. But I wanted to and the new chain was 'GOLD' so, good enough reason for me. 🙂 What I installed: - D.I.D (Japan) 525 VX3 gold chain (124 links initially) ESJOT (German) Counter sprocket steel (not cushioned) - 16 tooth (standard) ESJOT Rear sprocket steel - 46 tooth (1 more than standard) Process order (for me): - Bike on centerstand. Access the counter (front) sprocket by removing the gear shifter linkage, sprocket cover and chain guide. Unstake the counter sprocket nut and remove. N.B. this sucker is torqued on tight! Either have a friend stand on the brake while you loosen it or if you have access to an impact driver use that - no friend required! (impact driver = no stress = worth weight in gold) Grind off a rivet down to the plate on old chain to make it easy for the chain breaker. I used a DREMEL tool with metal wheel to do so. Using a chain breaker, push the pin out of the old chain. Remove old chain and consign to chain heaven - AKA the rubbish tip. Remove front sprocket. Remove rear wheel (requires the removal of rear brake assembly first). Undo and remove the six rear sprocket nuts in a staged, cross pattern. Remove the chain guard and sprocket from the rear wheel. Considering that some have reported major problems with the re-installation of the rear sprocket - stripped threads, studs coming out of the wheel hubs, unable to torque nuts to the spec etc, I took the following care/attention before re-installation: - Used a wire brush to clean out any crud in the threads of the studs - that's it! Ok. Moving on to the installation part: - Using the DREMEL tool and chain breaker I cut the new chain to the same length of the existing chain (110 links). Install the new rear sprocket and old chain guard and torque to spec (80Nm) in a criss cross pattern increasing torque gradually across the six nuts - no problem. Re-install the rear wheel and brake assembly to the bike. (don't tighten the axle nut yet) Install the new front sprocket and hand tighten the nut. (I used the old nut but the recommendation is to use a new one 🤷♂️) Install the new chain and master link. See this post. Torque the front sprocket nut to recommendation (95Nm). This is where you'll need that friend on the brake or you can actually do it yourself while leaning across the bike. Adjust the chain slack as normal. N.B. because I've used a bigger rear sprocket, the wheelbase is shorter and the rear axle is now at the forward most position. Should I have gone 112 links? Not by all accounts from my extensive research on the subject in the past?! Slightly shorter wheelbase...meh! More wheelies in my future?? OK, enough talk. Some photos of the process below. The new bits - Out with the old - Shiney new goodness - Rear studs cleaned up - Final product - Gear shift sensor cleaned up while at it - 9 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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