New chain, sprockets and knowledge gained.

[dazzler24]

Just wanted to share my experiences in installing a new chain and sprockets on my 'vintage' 2015 Tracer which I'll say up front went without any real problems for me.  (Some of this info in other posts within the forum.)

Did I need to change the chain and sprockets?  They were getting worn but to be honest, not really.

But I wanted to and the new chain was 'GOLD' so, good enough reason for me. 🙂

What I installed: -

• D.I.D (Japan) 525 VX3  gold chain (124 links initially)
• ESJOT (German) Counter sprocket steel (not cushioned) - 16 tooth (standard)
• ESJOT Rear sprocket steel - 46 tooth (1 more than standard)

Process order (for me): -

1. Bike on centerstand.
2. Access the counter (front) sprocket by removing the gear shifter linkage, sprocket cover and chain guide.
3. Unstake the counter sprocket nut and remove.  N.B. this sucker is torqued on tight!  Either have a friend stand on the brake while you loosen it or if you have access to an impact driver use that - no friend required! (impact driver = no stress = worth weight in gold)
4. Grind off a rivet down to the plate on old chain to make it easy for the chain breaker. I used a DREMEL tool with metal wheel to do so.
5. Using a chain breaker, push the pin out of the old chain.
6. Remove old chain and consign to chain heaven - AKA the rubbish tip.
7. Remove front sprocket.
8. Remove rear wheel (requires the removal of rear brake assembly first).
9. Undo and remove the six rear sprocket nuts in a staged, cross pattern.
10. Remove the chain guard and sprocket from the rear wheel.

Considering that some have reported major problems with the re-installation of the rear sprocket - stripped threads, studs coming out of the wheel hubs, unable to torque nuts to the spec etc, I took the following care/attention before re-installation: -

Used a wire brush to clean out any crud in the threads of the studs - that's it!

Ok. Moving on to the installation part: -

1. Using the DREMEL tool and chain breaker I cut the new chain to the same length of the existing chain (110 links).
2. Install the new rear sprocket and old chain guard and torque to spec (80Nm) in a criss cross pattern increasing torque gradually across the six nuts - no problem.
3. Re-install the rear wheel and brake assembly to the bike. (don't tighten the axle nut yet)
4. Install the new front sprocket and hand tighten the nut.  (I used the old nut but the recommendation is to use a new one 🤷‍♂️)
5. Install the new chain and master link. See this post.
6. Torque the front sprocket nut to recommendation (95Nm).  This is where you'll need that friend on the brake or you can actually do it yourself while leaning across the bike.
7. Adjust the chain slack as normal. N.B. because I've used a bigger rear sprocket, the wheelbase is shorter and the rear axle is now at the forward most position.  Should I have gone 112 links?  Not by all accounts from my extensive research on the subject in the past?!  Slightly shorter wheelbase...meh!  More wheelies in my future??

OK, enough talk.  Some photos of the process below.

The new bits -

Out with the old -

Shiney new goodness -

Rear studs cleaned up -

Final product -

Gear shift sensor cleaned up while at it -

[Lone Wolf]

Good work. You can order chain at the length needed so you don't have to cut it (like you needed 110 links, bought 114).

I may have done the same thing though, adding a tooth to the rear - making sure you have enough chain to keep the axle in the sweet spot for adjustment, see how it actually fits and remove links as needed.

That is a fantastic chain - it will last a long time.

Edited June 15, 2021 by Lone Wolf

[dazzler24]

Took the brand-new chain, sprockets and oiler out for a spin today and thought I'd share my observations.

No1 is that my ride feels smoother.  Not sure why that would be but just feels less 'lumpy' than before.  Not that it was ever bad but something is subtly different in a good way - nicer. 🙂

I have a 1 tooth larger rear sprocket now so that might account for some difference?

A slight negative is that the drive train is noisier than before.  It sounds like there's a bit of a whine coming up from the chain and front sprocket area?  It's not obnoxious by any stretch but is noticeable as it wasn't there before I made the change.  Chain has been tensioned on centre stand to around 20-25mm BTW.

I guess the fact that the front sprocket is all steel (not rubber damped like the OEM) may be the source?

I'm thinking that this may all settle down as I put some miles on - or I just get used to it!

Before I went out, I cleaned as much of the manufacturer's grease off the chain as possible and glad I did.  There was a little bit of fling off but pretty good in the scheme of things.  None on the RIM and only a tiny bit on the tyre/tire.

I put my new NEMO 2 oiler to the test and it worked with flying colours.  Only possible change I may have to make is my choice of reservoir location down on the stator cover.  I love the spot I chose for ease of operation and not on the handlebar, but it got a bit warm to the touch in that location.  Not bad mind you and the device parts are only oil and aluminium and a couple of 'O' rings after all and they should all be able to handle a bit of heat!

Anyway, all in all very pleased with the new additions.  Also, the 24 carat solid gold chain sure does look purty. 😉

P.S. Haven't yet compared my speedo against my GPS yet so will be interesting how much/if any difference there is.

[Brian]

Good job. Will reference this when doing my vintage '15

BONUS...I learned some new terms today...... "unstaked...the nut" and "consigned to...the rubbish tip"

Never hear that here in Texas, USA!

[peteinpa]

1 hour ago, Brian said:

Good job. Will reference this when doing my vintage '15

BONUS...I learned some new terms today...... "unstaked...the nut" and "consigned to...the rubbish tip"

Never hear that here in Texas, USA!

That's rubbish!!🤣🤣

[dazzler24]

10 hours ago, Brian said:

Good job. Will reference this when doing my vintage '15

BONUS...I learned some new terms today...... "unstaked...the nut" and "consigned to...the rubbish tip"

Never hear that here in Texas, USA!

 

8 hours ago, peteinpa said:

That's rubbish!!🤣🤣

Are you Mericans trashing my rubbish! 🤣

[Brian]

We "heart" Australians. We are not trash....errr, I mean, rubbish.

 

Edited June 18, 2021 by Brian

[Wintersdark]

Just about to do this myself, got a spiffy new chain and front sprocket (my rear sprocket has only half the kilometers on it the front one does, as I changed it for a 47 tooth some time ago; it's fine) - won't be my first chain changed, but it actually is my first front sprocket change!  Mine's not awful, but it's got some slight wear, and front sprockets are cheap, so figured what the heck.  Chain is actually probably still serviceable too, but it's very close to 20k, so... eh.  It's had some slack in the driveline that's been irritating me over the last while, so hopefully this will snug stuff up. 

120 links of EK MVXZ2 chain, red side plates because I could (bike is grey with red highlights, shock spring, etc).  118 is stock, and while I was able to mount my 47 tooth rear sprocket on the stock chain, it was pretty snug AND said stock chain was close to 10000km's into it's life, there's a very real chance that a brand new 118 link won't fit. Much easier to cut a 120 down to 118 than stretch a 118 to 120 😃

I've taken a read around and I'm a bit concerned about the sprocket nut, as I don't have another one and can't just have my bike down for a few days waiting for one, but hopefully the existing nut will be fine.  

 

[dazzler24]

9 hours ago, Brian said:

no señor, amamos australianos

We "heart" Australians. We are not trash....errr, I mean, rubbish.

 

Hey Brian, Looks like there's been an edit since the message I got so I'll (try) to reply to the original Spanish..... 🙂

No hay problemas. Los Australianos también amamos a todos los pueblos de las Américas.  😉👍😃

 

[dazzler24]

1 hour ago, Wintersdark said:

Just about to do this myself, got a spiffy new chain and front sprocket (my rear sprocket has only half the kilometers on it the front one does, as I changed it for a 47 tooth some time ago; it's fine) - won't be my first chain changed, but it actually is my first front sprocket change!  Mine's not awful, but it's got some slight wear, and front sprockets are cheap, so figured what the heck.  Chain is actually probably still serviceable too, but it's very close to 20k, so... eh.  It's had some slack in the driveline that's been irritating me over the last while, so hopefully this will snug stuff up. 

120 links of EK MVXZ2 chain, red side plates because I could (bike is grey with red highlights, shock spring, etc).  118 is stock, and while I was able to mount my 47 tooth rear sprocket on the stock chain, it was pretty snug AND said stock chain was close to 10000km's into it's life, there's a very real chance that a brand new 118 link won't fit. Much easier to cut a 120 down to 118 than stretch a 118 to 120 😃

I've taken a read around and I'm a bit concerned about the sprocket nut, as I don't have another one and can't just have my bike down for a few days waiting for one, but hopefully the existing nut will be fine.  

 

Yes, I cut mine from a 124 (as that's how it came) to a 110 (stock for 2015) after reading around the traps for the best fit given I'd gone up one tooth in the rear.  I'm wondering if I should have gone to 112?!  Anyway, no real problem.  The wheelbase is now a few Millimetres shorter and I have plenty of adjustment room for stretch.  The 112 would have worked too I'm thinking.

As far as the sprocket staked nut is concerned, I took the decision to re-use mine.  The new sprocket has caused the nut staking position to 'land' on a fresh piece of metal when torqued to spec. i.e., not the same spot as the original staking occurred so I'm happy with that.  Probably wouldn't have mattered anyway?  I might have a little re-inspection after a few more Kms are put on it to satisfy myself that it hasn't moved but I doubt that it will.

The RED plates will look flash!  Maybe should have done the same here given I've got some red highlights against the Grey as well?!  The gold chain was a real bargain at the time so was hard to pass up.

I look forward to your finished product. 🙂

[PhotoAl]

Looking at a new rear sprocket and like the Superlight but cannot find in a 45 tooth.  Thinking of going to 44 but keeping OEM size front sprocket.  Wondering how much of a change it will make, know it will drop the RPMs at speed a little but that really isn't an issue.  More concerned about low speed operation.  On my trips I stay in campgrounds with gravel roads and low speed limits (like 7 mph) due to lots of kids around.  Other choice is a 47.  

Only at 11,000 miles and could re-use the rear as I cannot see any wear on it but want to go new all around.

It has been a challenge getting a chain and sprockets.  Hard to find in proper size, wound up getting a 120 link non gold DID chain from my buds at Cycle Gear.  

Years ago I ran a SuperSprox steel and aluminum sprocket but wasn't awed by it.  The anodizing faded and it seemed to wear more than the OEM.

[whisperquiet]

22 minutes ago, PhotoAl said:

Looking at a new rear sprocket and like the Superlight but cannot find in a 45 tooth.  Thinking of going to 44 but keeping OEM size front sprocket.  Wondering how much of a change it will make, know it will drop the RPMs at speed a little but that really isn't an issue.  More concerned about low speed operation.  On my trips I stay in campgrounds with gravel roads and low speed limits (like 7 mph) due to lots of kids around.  Other choice is a 47.  

Only at 11,000 miles and could re-use the rear as I cannot see any wear on it but want to go new all around.

It has been a challenge getting a chain and sprockets.  Hard to find in proper size, wound up getting a 120 link non gold DID chain from my buds at Cycle Gear.  

Years ago I ran a SuperSprox steel and aluminum sprocket but wasn't awed by it.  The anodizing faded and it seemed to wear more than the OEM.

I just replaced the chain and sprockets on my ‘19 Tracer GT with 15,000 miles on the original set.  I bought a set of JT sprockets via Amazon.com and a Primary Drive 525 o’ring chain in the correct length from Rocky Mountain ATV.  

I installed the new chain master link with my chain press/stake and all is good as the driveline feels much smoother.  I did go with the stock gearing and a JT rubber damped front sprocket just like OEM.
 

 

[betoney]

1 hour ago, PhotoAl said:

Looking at a new rear sprocket and like the Superlight but cannot find in a 45 tooth.  Thinking of going to 44 but keeping OEM size front sprocket.  Wondering how much of a change it will make, know it will drop the RPMs at speed a little but that really isn't an issue.  More concerned about low speed operation.  On my trips I stay in campgrounds with gravel roads and low speed limits (like 7 mph) due to lots of kids around.  Other choice is a 47.  

It has been a challenge getting a chain and sprockets.  Hard to find in proper size, wound up getting a 120 link non gold DID chain from my buds at Cycle Gear.  

Did you try Sprocket Center?  I placed an order recently and everything was in stock and shipped immediately. 
I ordered 16/47 and a DID VX3 gold chain. 

[PhotoAl]

I've been looking at Sprocket Center but they are out of the SuperLight sprocket 45T.  Ordered a DID VX3 chain from Cycle Gear.  Thought about gold but OK with the natural color.  I've wondered if there aren't supply issue along with everyone working on their bikes now so parts hard to get.  

I have an engineering degree (electrical) so probably overthink everything but hey at least I don't have to read manuals 🙂

Tomorrow going to give the chain a good cleaning and maybe it will be OK, spent 4 hours today chasing a Spectrum modem for mother-in-law so she can watch her favorite shows.  She's 93 and barely gets around and have no technical ability.  Well she can screw up settings on a remote faster than a 2 year old.  🙂 

Been overthinking O-ring chains and the steady state causing that is easy on most bike components probably causes more heat and friction for the O-rings which are not so much affected by load but rather speed of chain movement.  Thinking relaxed cursing at 70 to 80 mph is more constant movement on them than start and stop riding at slower speeds.

Edited August 4, 2021 by PhotoAl

[2and3cylinders]

For my last 2 replacements I went 520 DID ZVMX GOLD with Sprocket Center Superlite 16 / 47 and LIKE EM!!

Maybe I could have reused the 1st set's sprockets and will give both 520 sets a critical eye before buying the next chain.

I like where going 2 up on the rear puts the RPMs at every speed including at takeoffs and even at 75 mph.  Mileage hasn't suffered much and haven't noticed and added noise without the front damper.

My 15 CP3 likes the higher revs along with the XSR slip/assist clutch, especially in the twisties.

Waiting for rush hour to die down then going to put more wear on all components...