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throttle is "pinned" to max revs


Rdecae81

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5 hours ago, Paddy01 said:

Maybe I’m missing something here, but wasn’t there a recall related to the throttle tube?  Mine’s an early model and didn’t need the fix. 

 

if that is correct that would be awesome that it is a know issue and a fix at the root cause level

until now this bike has never given me an issue.  I upgraded the OEM suspension to RacTec front and rear, but other than that upgrade it is stock, and I really like this bike. So right now I have lost confidence, and would like a true fix by the shop.

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21 minutes ago, Rdecae81 said:

bummer mine is a 2019 900GT

The recall doesn’t apply to your model year.

Fairly certain your bike has factory heated grips controlled through the menu on the dash - being that it’s a GT.  So possibly what’s happening to your bike is similar to what Heli ATP experienced and it will be taken care of by Yamaha. check engine light come on? 

For the record this is only the second time I’ve seen anything about this type of issue on these forums.  By the sounds of it (via Heli’s repairs) something was binding up in the throttle housing where the grip wires and throttle cables are routed. 
could be the same for you, does the throttle return and snap shut when you let go of it?

-Skip
 

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so yes the GT has OEM factory heated grips.

Cannot tell if the check engine light is on, because as soon as you hit the start button the engine kicks in to 12k RPM and I hit the kill switch immediately.  So not enough time to see CEL icon.

NO the throttle does not return.  it is locked "fully on"  

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5 minutes ago, Rdecae81 said:

so yes the GT has OEM factory heated grips.

Cannot tell if the check engine light is on, because as soon as you hit the start button the engine kicks in to 12k RPM and I hit the kill switch immediately.  So not enough time to see CEL icon.

NO the throttle does not return.  it is locked "fully on"  

Are you saying that when you twist the throttle grip open that it doesn’t physically return to a closed position? Or that the engine revs up but won’t return to idle regardless of throttle grip position?

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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4 minutes ago, betoney said:

Are you saying that when you twist the throttle grip open that it doesn’t physically return to a closed position? Or that the engine revs up but won’t return to idle regardless of throttle grip position?


the Throttle will NOT rotate either open or closed, it is locked into one position.  And yes when you hit the start button, the engine starts and immediately goes to 12k RPM and would (if I did not hit the kill switch) stay at 12k RPM's

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58 minutes ago, Rdecae81 said:


the Throttle will NOT rotate either open or closed, it is locked into one position.  And yes when you hit the start button, the engine starts and immediately goes to 12k RPM and would (if I did not hit the kill switch) stay at 12k RPM's

Ok, so that significantly narrows the troubleshooting down, the 2019 still has a physical throttle cable.
If the throttle grip is physically stuck open, remove the cables from the grip (just takes a few minutes) and see if the grip turns, if it is still stuck then it is the throttle tube. If the tube now turns freely then it is from the cable down to the pulley you would check next. 

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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14 hours ago, Rdecae81 said:


the Throttle will NOT rotate either open or closed, it is locked into one position.  And yes when you hit the start button, the engine starts and immediately goes to 12k RPM and would (if I did not hit the kill switch) stay at 12k RPM's

The dual cables are push-pull, as a safety precaution so that you can (in theory) manually close the throttle even if it isn’t returning on its own.  For that not to work, it must be REALLY stuck.  

My bet is still mechanical, and not electronic.   Have you actually looked at the cable run all the way down to the engine side?   I totally understand if that’s a “I’ll let the dealership sort that out” item, but I’m really curious.   

Good luck, and do keep us posted.  

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Surely this very much sounds like the throttle, either at the handlebar end or at the throttle end, is physically stuck in the wide open position doesn't it?   i.e. A mechanical problem.

All the evidence (it would seem) points to it from the OP statements: -

1.  "I pass a car and truck in third gear and pin the throttle to get around them."

2.  ".... the throttle does not return.  it is locked "fully on""

3.  "the Throttle will NOT rotate either open or closed, it is locked into one position."

Anyway, like others here, I'm curious to hear what the root cause is in case there is some maintenance that may be required in the throttle area so as to avoid the same potential nightmare.

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Heated grip wires must loop and be lubed with silicone grease.

Should be simple diagnosis and fix.

Clean handle bar OD and throttle tube ID and lube with moly grease while you're at it as well as the cables with Cable Life spray dribbled down from throttle pod end.

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The factory heated grip wires are not long or need to be looped like aftermarket, they are the perfect length and made for this bike. I have owned motorcycles with teflon lined throttle/clutch cables that you do not lube, are we certain that the Tracer cables are to be lubed? For the OP, do you have risers installed or have rotated the bars back towards tank?

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NO changes to the bars.  i.e. not raised or rotated etc.

bike is basically 100% stock

My guess is it is cable related, but it could be the connection at the TPS junction.

I would be comfortable with fixing it on my own, but to have this happen, I want it documented to Yamaha.

I am writing an email to Yamaha USA documenting what happened and what "dealership" the bike is at.

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Omg a issue with something mechanical……better get all over Yamaha, damn manufacturers cant make things perfect. 

Sometimes its just best to remember that shit happens. Its not a perfect world, things break despite the best efforts of manufacturers. 

Ever hear of act of god?

Kinda wonder what you did to break it.


 

 

Edited by duckie
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I do not care what the answer is, I just care that Yamaha knows of the issue IF it is not a simple cable problem.  For all we know, this has happened a few times, and Yamaha wants to know if/when it has happened.  I have worked for a lot of companies in my career and all companies want to know if there is a problem.  Again, at this point it could just be a worn out cable.  But maybe others have reported the same information, and Yamaha might change their maintenance from 30K to 20k for cables.  Who knows, but if manufacturers do not get valid information, then constant improvement is stymied.  Just my opinion.

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