cant seem to tighten rear sprocket nuts to torque

[johncw]

You're welcome! My copy of the manual says 80 NM or 58 ft/lbs.
 
HTH,
 
-S

The Yamaha manual has those figures printed in several places, and they are roughly equivalent to the torque figures for a Kawasaki I own which also has 10mm rear sprocket studs, with the 6 nuts tightened to 74Nm or 54 fl/lbs (from the genuine Kawasaki factory manual).
 
Is the torque wrench being used accurate?

[britelitebob]

Seems like every time I hear of someone stripping threads they did it with a torque wrench. A guy I know from a local dual sport club stripped out his oil drain plug and we told him not to be using a torque wrench on things like that, a week later he stripped out his spark plug threads so now we told his wife to take away his tools.

[pattonme]

Axle nuts are a different animal. But there too the Yam numbers are asinine. Ignoring engine internals, cam shaft sprocket nuts (Yam doesn't use locktite - only one to do so AFAIK), engine mounting bolts and swingarm-pivot, the only chassis bearing that actually matters is the head-stock for preloading purposes. Obviously the axles need to be tight enough not to unravel themselves and to maximize rigidity of the assembly but there isn't supposed to be any side-loading of the radial bearings. So 40 ftlb, 60ft, or 80ft doesn't matter in the general sense.
 

[slownsteady]

I watched many track junkies, amateur racers and a very reputable mechanics casually tighting the rear axle nut by hand with a much lower torque when swapping tires/wheels. No one lost a tire so far. The tech I trust actually stated the specs are off the wall on the torque numbers.

I have to second this.  The factory recommended torque specs are pretty high compared to what works in the real world.  In my opinion and personal experience, 23nm is spot on for most nuts/bolts on the bike (oil drain bolt, fork pinch bolts, etc), and for larger items like axle nuts/counter shaft nuts 60ft/lb has proven adequate.  This is with a properly calibrated/quality torque wrench and clean/good condition hardware.  I tend to replace bolts/nuts/washers at the first sign of wear and triple check bolts and nuts for tightness out of sheer paranoia for what "could" happen.  Also keep in mind that any application of grease, anti-seize, thread locker, WD-40... has an impact on hardware tightening/torque values. 
When in doubt, drill and wire!
 
 

 

[Gregorius T]

Hey All,
 
I just attempted to mount my new rear sprocket, and sure enough, I stripped out 2 nuts, trying to reach 80 nm.
 
That's got to be a misprint in the Hanes manual.  Those are small nuts.
 
Does anybody know the correct torque?
 
Thanks

[norcal616]

Hey All, 
I just attempted to mount my new rear sprocket, and sure enough, I stripped out 2 nuts, trying to reach 80 nm.
 
That's got to be a misprint in the Hanes manual.  Those are small nuts.
 
Does anybody know the correct torque?
 
Thanks

 
 
read up on the earlier postings- alot of these values are insane, alot of these values may for brand new nuts/bolts... any type of fluid or oil or thread lock will actually throw the value off by alot since it requires more force to get friction... 55nm or 45ish ft/lbs is plenty...
.. I mainly save the TQ wench for engine work, steering bearings... things such as drain plugs, spark plugs, body bolts dont need a TQ wench...

[trokarr]

Hey All, 
I just attempted to mount my new rear sprocket, and sure enough, I stripped out 2 nuts, trying to reach 80 nm.
 
That's got to be a misprint in the Hanes manual.  Those are small nuts.
 
Does anybody know the correct torque?
 
Thanks

Manual says 58 lb/ft (80 nm).  I just finished putting on a new JT rear sprocket on mine not 10 min ago and had no trouble at all.  Tightened them hand tight then torque in a criss-cross pattern as recommended in the manual.  Now riveting the new chain together was a whole other matter, but that is another story.

[Gregorius T]

Hey, thanks for the reply.
 
There are 2 factors that I'm sure contributed to the stripping of the nuts.  
 
First, I tried to reuse the OEM nuts, which is probably not recommended.  I forgot that my SuperLite sprocket came with a new set of locking nuts.  I was able to torque those down with no problems.
Although, I only went to 65 nm.  I still think 80 nm is overkill for these small nuts, and the forces that will be applied.
 
Second, just before attempting to reuse the OEM nuts, I cleaned them in Kerosene.  This most certainly affected the coefficient of friction.
 
I also installed a new chain.  Using the MotionPro chain tool, it was a cinch.  I would highly recommend you invest in some digital calipers.  I went with these:
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
The calipers are needed for 2 purposes:  1.  Ensure the new master link, once pressed on, is at the same width as all of the other links.  If you press it too far, it will not swivel correctly, and that link will quickly wear out.  2.  Ensuring the master link pin flare is the same as all of the other link pin flares.  You must be very careful not to over flare the pins, and cause them to crack.  If this happens, that master pin is toast, and must be replaced.

[trokarr]

What chain did you end up using? I saw your post about the Regina ZRT chain and read up about it and liked what I saw. I also bought the Regina chain tool, which is actually pretty good, but the instructions supplied with it are terrible. I found some better instructions online. The issue I had with staking the solid pin master link (I did not use the hollow tip master link that also came with the chain) was that it is recommended as a two person job in the instructions. One person needs to hold a large hammer head or sledge hammer against the back of the tool (while it is attached to the chain) and the other person hits the supplied riveter in the front of the tool to flare the pin tips to 5.6-5.8 mm. If I had a helper it would have been easy, but I was alone. I am going to have my local bike shop check it on Monday just for some piece of mind. The only other issue I had was a brain fart. I put the new dampened front sprocket on the engine and tightened the nut by hand, then put the chain on. I forgot to torque the engine sprocket nut and indent the outer ring into the grooves on the shaft. I had put all the covers back on when I remembered. Fortunately, I corrected the oversight before I tried to ride the bike lol. Anyway, everything is new and should last for quite a while before I have to do it again.

[jonno12345]

I watched many track junkies, amateur racers and a very reputable mechanics casually tighting the rear axle nut by hand with a much lower torque when swapping tires/wheels. No one lost a tire so far. The tech I trust actually stated the specs are off the wall on the torque numbers.

I have to second this.  The factory recommended torque specs are pretty high compared to what works in the real world.  In my opinion and personal experience, 23nm is spot on for most nuts/bolts on the bike (oil drain bolt, fork pinch bolts, etc), and for larger items like axle nuts/counter shaft nuts 60ft/lb has proven adequate.  This is with a properly calibrated/quality torque wrench and clean/good condition hardware.  I tend to replace bolts/nuts/washers at the first sign of wear and triple check bolts and nuts for tightness out of sheer paranoia for what "could" happen.  Also keep in mind that any application of grease, anti-seize, thread locker, WD-40... has an impact on hardware tightening/torque values. 
When in doubt, drill and wire!
 
 


 
 
 

 
 
... That's beautiful haha

[chitown]

Somebody I know knocks a percentage off every torque value for large fasteners in Yamaha manuals and sanity checks every figure against other references to avoid getting caught out by manual errata and making it a sad day.