2019 900 GT. Hard start, extended crank?

[peripateticmike]

I have 6500 miles on the bike. 100% stock. 30 miles since last fill up. 68F ambient. This morning it started right up as usual, rode my 30 mile commute to work with no issues.  This evening, get to the bike, go to start it and it just cranked for a good 4 seconds without starting. Hit the start button again, cranked and sputtered. Hit the start button a 3rd time while giving a little bit of throttle and it sputtered and then fired up normally. No CEL or anything. It has always (and all of my other FI Yamahas) started right up immediately without issue. 

Anyone else experience this or weird anomaly? 

[micah2074]

You have warranty. Take it to the dealer and have them look at it. Did you give the pump time to prime before you pushed start? 

[peripateticmike]

I inserted the key, turned it, then hit the start button as I've always done. No diversion from the norm. I just wanted to see if anyone else had this issue, and maybe it's a known one that's software related. It's a one off occurrence at this point, I'm not too worried about it. 

[norcal616]

Is this a CA bike? 

[mellow]

The Super Tenere has this problem from time to time... usually when you start/stop without letting the bike warm up.. Takes a long time turning it over before it catches again like it's flooded.  Some there say to open the throttle all the way and try starting until it catches.. Haven't had that issue w/tracer yet.

[duhs10]

This issue has been documented several times over the years on FZs, FJs, and MTs.... it seems the Tracer GT still has the symptoms. Which makes sense as not much has really changed other than the chassis.

 

I have a '15 FJ and have only experienced this 1 time... I wasn't too alarmed as I had read about many others having the same issue. I'm not sure if anyone has ever come upon an actual solution or definitive cause.

[DavidS]

I have this problem randomly with my 2015 FJ-09. Not too often, but maybe once or twice a year it will happen. I've learned to be patient, turn the key off, wait a few minutes and try again. That seems to work better than just continuing to try and start, risking running the battery down.

[danielvdeleito]

30.000 miles on my bike and this happens to me when the battery start making older. After battery replacement the issue is gone. I monitor all my electrics and the generator is ok but the battery is 12.1 volts after turn on the key and let the fuel pump works (normal battery needs to show minimum +13 volts)

My research conclude in: the crossplane crankshaft engines require a very optimum and fast rotation from the starter motor. Low or even non optimum voltage from the battery produce this issue. In cold days can be worse.

Mike, let me know if the problem disappear if you decide change your battery.

[peripateticmike]

This happened again tonight, 2nd time. Bike is only 6 months old. It cranks over normally (not a slow crank) I don't think it's a low voltage issue. I'm a 20+ year high end automotive dealer tech (master in my brand). I completely understand low cranking voltage issues. It cranks over normally, but just cranks and sputters for 5-6+ seconds. Seems to be software related in my opinion. 

 

My '06 R1, '07 FZ1, '17 FZ-10 or '13 R1 has never done this....

[micah2074]

Take it to a dealer and have them diagnose it. 

[whistler]

15 minutes ago, micah2074 said:

Take it to a dealer and have them diagnose it. 

Might be the only option left, PeripateticMike.  

[rucicube]

My 2015 FJ did this a few times recently.  I found if I turned the key and wait for the instrument panel to finish it's cycling, bike starts right up.  Only takes a couple of seconds for this to happen.  Hope that is your problem.

 

 

[2linby]

7900 miles on my 2016 and this has happened to me twice. Once immediately after filling it up. I though perhaps I put too much gas in the tank and maybe that had something to do with it.  I waited a short minute and it started right back up. The second time it exhibited the same symptoms I immediately shut it down, turned the key off then back on and it fired right up. Don't know if it is a software issue, but it seems to be the best explanation so far. 

Edited January 18, 2019 by 2linby

[skipperT]

On 12/20/2018 at 9:26 PM, peripateticmike said:

This happened again tonight, 2nd time. Bike is only 6 months old. It cranks over normally (not a slow crank) I don't think it's a low voltage issue. I'm a 20+ year high end automotive dealer tech (master in my brand). I completely understand low cranking voltage issues. It cranks over normally, but just cranks and sputters for 5-6+ seconds. Seems to be software related in my opinion. 

 

My '06 R1, '07 FZ1, '17 FZ-10 or '13 R1 has never done this....

As others have mentioned, this bike NEEDS to be allowed to have the fuel pump cycle after key-on, BEFORE you hit the start button. If you are following that procedure and still having issues, I can give you some other things to check.

You said you are an accomplished auto tech - one big difference between a YCC-T bike and a car is that the throttle bodies go through a start-up procedure when the key is switched on with the run switch in the ON position, and if you attempt a start before they have settled to their correct position it makes it harder for the engine to catch. My theory is it's just a tad lean for emissions reasons, but I haven't proved that. YCC-T supposedly eliminates the need for any kind of IAC or cold start valve, but for some reason this CP3 engine just seems a bit more finicky than some to start.

Also the battery state of charge has a BIG effect. Measured dcV across the battery key-off HAS to be above 12.5.  Spark plugs tend to foul easily if the bike isn't allowed to warm up properly before shutting it off as well (ie not taken for a ride). If you start it, and rev it a couple times to show your friends without riding, then they are likely fouled. Cleaning them isn't always worth it, due to accessibility.  Summer gas also tends to light off with difficulty in high compression engines when they are cold.  Make sure the throttle cable freeplay is correct, 2-3mm minimum as measured by grip rotation (check it isn't too tight when the handlebars are off to one side...)

You haven't adjusted any of the TPS/APS values as instructed on this or another website,  just out of curiosity? 

It could be a fuel pump going out, but I kind of doubt it. If you have a Snap-on fuel pressure kit I'm 99% positive there's an adapter in there that will work instead of the yamaha special tool.

Tight valves could contribute to this as well, but your bike really doesn't have enough miles for that to be my first guess.

Mellow posted one way to deal with this issue, but I'd would use it only as a last resort after repeatedly trying to start the engine and you suspect that it may be flooded.

I have better luck practicing what DavidS recommended personally, just sigh "oh Yamaha, it's such a great bike except this" while turning the key off, pausing, and trying again. My 2015 does this, usually after I've just shut it down for 5 minutes (getting gas for example) and then re-starting.

Post back if you have more thoughts/need more ideas.

-Skip

 

Edited January 23, 2019 by skipperT

[norcal616]

If you are turning the bike off while it's running via the key and not using the red thumb button to stop the motor...it takes longer to start... it's not an automobile

Turning the bike off while running using the red thumb button, then using the key to shut off all power...I find the bike fires up almost instantly after you hit the red starter button...