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Nice work 2and3clyinders, I'm off to google DS, VHB, HB and HDABS  😁

I notice the left switch pod for the Super Tenere is 2BS-83954-00-00 and the one for the MT-10 is B67-83954-00-00. Same number in the middle, wonder if they are the same part?

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46 minutes ago, Heli ATP said:

Nice work 2and3clyinders, I'm off to google DS, VHB, HB and HDABS  😁

I notice the left switch pod for the Super Tenere is 2BS-83954-00-00 and the one for the MT-10 is B67-83954-00-00. Same number in the middle, wonder if they are the same part?

Thanks Most people have used the 2015 Super T Pod But as I haven't considered it I don't know which would be better

If you zoom in on the Tape packages you'll see who Prepared them From big rolls and the part numbers I think I got them on Amazon, I can check if you want

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7 hours ago, Heli ATP said:

I notice the left switch pod for the Super Tenere is 2BS-83954-00-00 and the one for the MT-10 is B67-83954-00-00. Same number in the middle, wonder if they are the same part?

Sounds like you're still toying with your original idea of an OEM look for your CC like I did?  Yes?

I've used the Yamaha parts finder to try to make some comparisons with your situation. (N.B. this is the parts finder for AU and the parts may be different in the USA - probably same but you'd have to confirm)

------------

MY BIKE - 2015 Tracer (FJ-09)

PART No. for my OEM switchgear - 2PP-83969-00 (SWITCH 5)

PART No. I used to cannibalise parts from - FJR switchgear - 1MC-83954-00 (SWITCH 7)

PART No. from - Super 10 switchgear - 2BS-83954-00 (SWITCH 7) - (I could have used this part as it too was compatible)

--------------

YOUR BIKE - 2017 FJ09 (Tracer)

PART No. for your OEM switchgear - 2PP-83969-00 (SWITCH 5) * Same as mine.

PART No. of your MT-10 purchased switchgear - B67-83954-00 (SWITCH 7)

------------

While it doesn't prove conclusively that they are compatible there are good signs, based on the part number comparisons, that they very well may be!

However, if you are still keen to investigate then the only way to be sure is to get your hands dirty I'm afraid.

So....

1. Examine the two switchgear assemblies very carefully externally for total physical likeness - i.e. identical.

2. If No 1 passes muster then open up both of them and examine if the parts required out of the MT-10 can be moved over to your original switchgear.

The only parts you will need out of the MT-10 assembly are shown below. (note that the parts shown are out of my '15 FJR switchgear but yours should be the same/similar).  You'll soon be able to tell if the internals of your '17 switchgear will accept the parts needed.  Hope that helps.

Good luck. 🙂

 

FJR1.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Look what came today. DHL delivery from Australia to NE PA, USA in 9 days. It does come with a lot of printed documentation 🙄

My left pod switch from Germany for delivery by the US post office is another story, arrived in NY 8 days ago and has been to New Orleans from Philadelphia twice. Called the USPS and was told it can't be intercepted as it's one of millions of packages in the system and I just have to wait for the system to spit it out. Maybe it is time to privatize the postal service. 

I must say I am surprised by how slim the new control switch from McCruise is. Yet to make my mind up which way to go.

Mc Cruise Box.jpg

Mc Cruise Contents.jpg

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Yeah it's a lot of documentation, but their docs are excellent. They are extremely detailed and accurate. 

I work on multi-million dollar industrial equipment and I wish our documentation was half as good as what you get from MCCruise. 

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Good luck with modification of an OEM switch pod.  As I posted up, I went with the slim switch under the left FJ pod and am happy enough.

 You just have to follow the instructions and take your time and it's really pretty easy.

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14 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Good luck with modification of an OEM switch pod.  As I posted up, I went with the slim switch under the left FJ pod and am happy enough.

 You just have to follow the instructions and take your time and it's really pretty easy.

👆 This. I too am happy with the slim switch. Yes there is a lot of documentation. The instructions are detailed enough that even a novice should be able to do it. I was very impressed with it....

Good luck 

 

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"It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same"  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA

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Look what arrived, after its tour of the USA. Ordered from Germany, came into the USA through NY and went to New Orleans twice before delivery in Pennsylvania. Sad to say I am losing confidence in the Post Office 😔

2016 MT-10 Left Switch Pod with Cruise controls....

MT10 left switch pod.jpg

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After playing with my MT-10 left switch pod I've come up with another idea. It requires cutting away some of said switch and using the Slim Switch from McCruise.  I thought the original McCruise switch was monstrous but new Slim Switch is a beautiful piece, and I am not confident enough to de-construct it. 

So echoing 2and3cylinders comments about all the empty real estate on the left hand switch pod I was all set to incorporate the McCruise controls into the blank switches like dazzler24. After closer inspection I have to admit what dazzler24 accomplished is way beyond my skill level.

I had to de-pin the Slim Switch connector and increase the drain hole on the bottom of the pod to  route the wire through. On page 6 of this thread dazzler shows how the back portion of the Slim Switch can be cut off. This would allow the switch to sit lower that shown in my pics.

The only question left is will I have the courage to de-construct the left pod switch on my FJ-09. There are a lot of small pieces in there 🙄

McCruise Pod.jpg

 

DePin Connector.jpg

McCruise Pod 3.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Finally got the McCruise installed and programmed today. The directions are perfect step by step. If you can do a jig saw puzzle you can do this, believe me. I got the expected check engine light on the 2017, but had bought an OBD2 scan tool and the four pin adapter to connect to the diagnostics port next to the battery, Cleared the code in 10 seconds. Test ride went perfect, spent 15 minutes on the highway and Wow unbelievable.

 

Diagnostics Port.jpg

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On 2/20/2021 at 4:22 AM, Heli ATP said:

McCruise Pod 3.jpg

The slim switch looks right at home where you've installed it. 👍.

What did you use to fill the gaps on the right hand side?

As always, there's more than one way to skin a cat and yours is the first I've seen done this way.  Looks good IMHO.

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I chickened out in the end and just stuck it next to the switch. If it wasn't going to fit perfect I wouldn't have been able to look at it. I 'm hoping to find aux light switches for the blanks. I used tape on the spare switch assembly but put black silicone on my actual install to keep it in place.

Switch CC.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/16/2020 at 11:37 PM, dazzler24 said:

OK, so my 2nd hand FJR switch turned up today and I set about dismantling it, cleaning up the bits and doing the installation and wiring into my existing pod using the cable that is supplied with the slim switch (in my case).

Added the appropriate resistors for SET & RES functions and for the LED current limiting as well.

Haven't put the tank and fairings back on yet but have initially tested it in the garage and reprogrammed the McCruise module to change the SET/ACC & RES/DEC function to SET/DEC & RES/ACC to reflect how the new FJR switch is marked so that there will be no confusion.

Happy so far but hope to go for a run tomorrow to ensure that it all works as expected and that I haven't stuffed something up!

If you don't hear from me, then I probably have!

FJR1.thumb.jpg.fae34adbbd601710234b53f9503b7d63.jpgFJR2.thumb.jpg.cf18b6c0aee191f148da6a6857e2a45b.jpg

 

I want to update this thread. I completed my conversion today, and it works great!

One thing I found on mine is the wiring colors were a little different. All 6 wires had a black stripe, and there were grey/black and orange/black wires instead of white and black. A little check with the multimeter helped me figure out which wires were correct. 

20210412_163949.thumb.jpg.11554cf7dbe030ae452743af2c906174.jpg

@dazzler24 I have a question:

How do you reprogram the buttons so they are Set/Decel and Res/Accel? I looked through the programming procedures, and couldn't find anything.

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Good to hear that you're almost there.

I'm out for a ride right now..stopped for a bite....but IIRC the info was in one of the many instructions that came with the McCruise.

I'll check with this post and get back to you if you haven't found the answer by then.

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