Bad brakes

[fjray]

I'm saying yes to this.  I'm  curious what others think.  

[fjray]

19 hours ago, kilo3 said:

Dave Moss would replace the master cylinder every 3 months, I mean it's only 15 bucks. 😁

Is this true?   Seems impossible, the price. 

[kilo3]

1 minute ago, fjray said:

Is this true?   Seems impossible, the price. 

The piston/seal sub assembly is 14.35.

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[Lone Wolf]

2 hours ago, petshark said:

... if I bleed by using the lever at least once a year on an almost new bike that there is little chance that there is anything in the bore that could hurt the seals? ...by doing this frequently from the start it should be ok, no?

Yeah with all new surfaces on a new bike that is certainly a different scene than a vintage bike that has also seen some periods of storage. I started using vacuum bleeder but for many years just did the "squeeze the lever" method, which is what you see on most instructions. Even the video I posted on page 1 of this thread, Aaron uses vacuum bleed but also shows how to do it manually. 

It is something to be aware of if you are working on an older bike. Corollary with new bike... you should be fine.

[betoney]

2 hours ago, fjray said:

Is this true?   Seems impossible, the price. 

Like @kilo3 mentioned, a rebuild kit is pretty cheap.  The outer assembly will last the life of the bike but the inner seals and or gaskets could wear out.

All Balls Front Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit for Yamaha Tracer 900 GT 2019

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Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits. Kit contains all of the components to...

 

[2and3cylinders]

I can't recall exactly but unless the MC has a separate bleed port and bleeder screw like on the 2009~2014  R1 Brembo I installed in conjunction with 2014 R1 320 mm rotors and Spiegler f & R lines, and even if you have a banjo bleeder bolt up at the MC, flushing with fresh DOT 4 will not necessarily clear crud in the bottom of the cylinder bore because of where the output port is situated.  Meaning, the output port to the banjo bolt and hose to the calipers is not necessarily located at the very end of the cylinder bore.  Now I need to dig out my orig MC and check...  😞 It's he'll getting old.  My memory was never good (too many short circuits between the ECU and RAM due to dyslexia, ADD & OCD) but it's really gone way down hill after I slid past 60.

[petshark]

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

My memory was never good (too many short circuits between the ECU and RAM due to dyslexia, ADD & OCD) but it's really gone way down hill after I slid past 60.

I hear you.. I am in my forties but my RAM is also fried. It either goes on the harddisk or it lost after about 10 seconds. I've had to learn to make notes for myself to repeat a procedure a year later or it would be like it was the first time all over again.

[2and3cylinders]

2 hours ago, petshark said:

I hear you.. I am in my forties but my RAM is also fried. It either goes on the harddisk or it lost after about 10 seconds. I've had to learn to make notes for myself to repeat a procedure a year later or it would be like it was the first time all over again.

Right except I was rebuilt and there's not a radial disk hard drive in me anymore it's all solid state memory more resistant to shock and shutdowns

I'm just having trouble with the new operating system and I'm waiting for updates

I feel like I'm in a Next Generation Star Trek episode I didn't know the original was in color until I got one in the 70s

 

[piotrek]

11 hours ago, petshark said:

This also got me thinking.. would you agree that if I see no crud at all in the MC and if I bleed by using the lever at least once a year on an almost new bike that there is little chance that there is anything in the bore that could hurt the seals?

All you need is a piece of tubing and a clear container... and everything else you need to bleed the brakes is already on the bike... and while fresh fluid is nice, that year old fluid that you may be tempted to finish is going to be 10 times better than the stuff coming out of the caliper anyway so I wouldn't fret over this. Avoid buying fluid in large containers... that way the unused fluid won't sit on the shelf longer than a season, or just finish it. Do this once a year as you mention, and there will be no crud worry about.

Edited January 28, 2021 by piotrek

[petshark]

 

8 hours ago, piotrek said:

All you need is a piece of tubing and a clear container... and everything else you need to bleed the brakes is already on the bike... and while fresh fluid is nice, that year old fluid that you may be tempted to finish is going to be 10 times better than the stuff coming out of the caliper anyway so I wouldn't fret over this. Avoid buying fluid in large containers... that way the unused fluid won't sit on the shelf longer than a season, or just finish it. Do this once a year as you mention, and there will be no crud worry about.

I'm not sure if I'm understanding correctly. Are you saying that you only really need to bleed the fluid that is in the calipers and flushing the rest is not really necessary?

Because the typical small 500 ml container contains more brake fluid than the Tracers brake systems capacity, so in order to finish a bottle in a season, how could there ever be old fluid in there? I've bled the front twice and the rear once and still have half a bottle left...

These things seem to contradict each other but I'm probably not getting something.

[betoney]

6 hours ago, petshark said:

 

I'm not sure if I'm understanding correctly. Are you saying that you only really need to bleed the fluid that is in the calipers and flushing the rest is not really necessary?

There might have been some misunderstanding somewhere, if you are filling from the top (MC reservoir) and bleeding from the bottom (right hand caliper) you are moving fresh fluid through the entire system. 

You are correct, the entire system just takes a small amount of fluid.

[petshark]

18 hours ago, betoney said:

There might have been some misunderstanding somewhere, if you are filling from the top (MC reservoir) and bleeding from the bottom (right hand caliper) you are moving fresh fluid through the entire system. 

You are correct, the entire system just takes a small amount of fluid.

That is clear to me, but I was referring to

On 1/29/2021 at 12:53 AM, piotrek said:

...and while fresh fluid is nice, that year old fluid that you may be tempted to finish is going to be 10 times better than the stuff coming out of the caliper anyway so I wouldn't fret over this. Avoid buying fluid in large containers... that way the unused fluid won't sit on the shelf longer than a season, or just finish it. Do this once a year as you mention, and there will be no crud worry about.

But now I get it! "That year old fluid" is still in the bottle of course. For some reason I thought you meant that the fluid in the caliper was 10 times as dirty as the fluid higher up in the system.

[Bill H]

On 12/27/2020 at 3:56 PM, PhotoAl said:

I've had that problem with cars.  When the kids were younger would get one of them to help me bleed the brakes.  Sometimes they would just let go of the brake pedal which would create enough suction to get an air bubble in the brake line.  Since then I always release the brake pedal/lever slowly.  Now I usually use a hand pumped vacuum bleeder - works great.  

its a closed system ,if you close the valve before releasing brake how is air getting in ??