norcal616

You are correct- during winter I took it to the dealership for a brake fluid job and new tires but that didn't happen- long story short the airbox breather hose was kinked after I looked into any further damages/why this happened. No wonder I thought I needed a TB synch when I pulled the bike out from winter hibernation, now it fires up like a charm, like it used to ... I have ridden the bike about 100miles prior to this happen but never rode as hard as the 200miles I did yesterday...

It's a first for me...never seen this before or heard of it happening on the FJ-09 before... The entire ride home I was pretty convinced a "cir-clip" or snap ring popped out... Sure enough the parts book shows nothing...

Yesterday I ruined my favorite riding boots, destroyed a set of rear brake pads and lost 1/4qt of oil... Hmmm yeah, totally effed up thing... For some reason the little rubber seal on the clutch arm link popped up enough to mist out oil 🤔... didn't notice till the oil light popped on and did a quick look and seen that my right foot was looking totally soaked vs the left boot which was totally dry... Luckily I was able to push the rubber seal down, add some oil( gas station didn't have MC oil but had plenty of diesel oil(non energy saving kind)...rode 200 miles home with no rear brake 😒( it's really annoying to use the front brake, it's not my preferred choice due to MX background), soaked right boot in oil... When I got home I hit the car wash bays and degreased the bottom half of the bike about 5times... Got home, stole the rear brake pads off my FZ-07 and then I took a flame torch to the rear rotor to get it hot enough to bake off the oil traces left behind... Took it out for a brake check and sure enough I can easily trip the ABS as I did before... Now I just gotta go to the Army Surplus store for new riding boots...

Seat Concepts is my vote... Keeps me just planted near the tank enough without putting getting "fruit" smashed against the tank... But I understand it's the nature of the beast as the FJ/Tracer is 93.63% sport bike under is skin...

The more you ride the bike- the more of a "6th sense" you develop on how empty the gas tank is to miles racked up 😎... I'm usually ready to start looking for a gas pump at 180miles normally...

I actually put the suspension back to OEM settings and just raised the forks up to approx 15mm( before it was 7mm(?) with preload crank down for example) ... Much better handling, front stays down better under drag racing conditions... I'm finding these settings are working much better(better planted feeling) when the RPMs are above 5k vs the old settings I had I used these settings: I'm 180# suited up R6shifter Blog : YAMAHA MT09 Tracer (Tracer900) - Fun Factor vs Rider Customization ...

It's just right... But in my defense I skip 1st gear and the 15T keeps the RPMs up a tad thru the gears as the motor loves to be above 4.5k RPMs why? It's not a diesel engine 😅

No pedal bikes eh??

Swap the front sprocket out for a plain Jane one without the rubber noise damping thing... The vibrations mainly come from the chain/sprocket as the chain does not ride on the inner chain rollers but rather the outside links on the OEM front sprocket...

Today I pulled the exhaust baffle out of my Graves Exhaust and let 'er rip... Oooo how I missed that siren call that ignites my soul... Full disclosure: it's "Memorial Day" weekend and I was tired of hearing them goofy shiny things people call " Harley Davidson" or whatever they are...

I have no clue- I find the low beam pretty good for night time riding but my exception is I have been a 3rd shifter for the last 16yrs of my life...

One headlight stays off/dim to help others judge the distance you are at... Other option is to run the highbeams 24/7 but you would have to adjust the light beam downwards...

It's not all about who tunes it- not all software are created equal... I had 2WDW flash my ECU with Woolich software instead of the default choice of FTecu... I also understand each tuner tunes a bit different- some keep the tunes more on the safe side, some just go for all the HO/TQ they can get, etc...

The chain is a 525 size( same for my fz-07)- set free play at 35mm... I barely have to adjust the chain ( maybe adjusted chain 2 times in 8k miles on my FJ-09 and maybe 3 times in 18k miles on my FZ-07 which is now toast)... The hash marks on the swingarm are just quick reference marks to align the axle , then check with an alignment gauge...

409sbc(factory "509" cast block), twin 76 fidget spinners, blow thru carb on race e85... I can detail more in PM to keep thread on topic..

Thank you for the information, I did not know that... Maybe switch the connections around?? I have not looked behind the headlight assembly...

One headlight stays dim until highbeam is used... Is that the issue??? Or is it the front turn signals?? US has Amber ones- EU has clear ones...

AMA killed affordable racing by doing away with 2strokes... Food for thought: Buy a used MT-09, it is a serious track bike with decent suspension... We know the motor loves to spin rpms(starts redline at 12.5-13k RPM) it packs liter bike power(120whp) in a nimble sub 400# package, has legs to hit 150+ mph... Plus it's a motor your already familiar with/ nearly identical riding ergos as the Tracer900... Use Woolich Race Kit/tune to get all the fancy race goodies such as launch control, QS up and auto-blipper down shifting... What else is missing???

Took "Little Red Riding Hood" out for its first ride of the year down to the local Dyno tuner to tune the "S10" 😎... How much power??? It's not important as getting good AFR readings 😛

The Yamaha Akra pipe has the cat-converter vs none on the aftermarket one... Also the Yamaha one is safe to run on OEM tune... But I would say Graves Exhaust with Woolich tune/ race kit from 2WDW is very hard to beat...

Michigan- 90mins south I can hit RedBud Motocross or go 25mins east to Grattan Raceway (used by the Big3 car makers to test cars), go "north" and just ride or go west for about 40miles and hit Lake Michigan or drive 25mins south and hit US131 drag strip(legit full 1/4 mile track)...

Probably the "final assembly" is done in Japan and other parts are made elsewere to be shipped to Japan for "final assembly" "Final Assembly" loosely means "Made In" - At my work for example we make parts for other overseas countries and a few of them we have to place a sticker that says "Made in ? " But not " Made in USA" even tho we make the entire part but don't certify the part for "emissions regs" as that is done by the company who gets the parts...

I dunno on using calipers to align the rear tire... The hash marks on the swingarm are just a quick reference to align the rear tire then check it out with a alingment tool... But it's only bothering you @45mph with no hands on the bars vs having hands on the bars and don't even notice it...

Balance the tires/proper rotation direction? Chain slack? Or it's just the tire "hunting" to maintain balance... Stock tires are junk- but It took me 8500miles to square the rear tire off...

Only the 3 important ones @texscottyd... And welcome to the "club" @Mosesthemouse 😁