norcal616

Most people assume a gas guage functions nicely like automotive with the nice rectangular linear shaped tanks vs the odd geometric shapes of motorcycles... Start using the trip meter as your gas gauge... I only pay attention to the gas guage when the little menu screen goes into Reserve Mode... The more you ride the bike doing normal stuff you will get a good idea on how far a tank last... Avg seems to be 160-180miles before it starts flashing it's bar... What the display shows for MPG or whatnot is not important when you know 180miles is the time to start looking for gas under normal circumstances...

You can switch to a 520 sized chain and sprockets for better availability/size selection at stores... Just use the proper strength chains( chains for 1000cc sport bikes such as R1 type of strength)

The best one: universal GO FAST sticker... Repairs bruised egos and adds 1.289 Horsepressure 🤯

AFAIK it cuts ignition... I use a QS(Woolich) and yes it's a bit clunky in the lower gears, I find it smooth at 7k+ RPMs till I'm in 4th gear which I can QS at any decent RPM... IIRC QS in general (using preset settings) generally don't like to be used under 5k RPMs but work pretty good in the upper RPMs... ****** BBBBBUUTTTT!!!! I mainly ride with TC off so the ECU is not messing around doing its job in general... Big difference in how the QS performs ***** Using 1st gear on this bike is a bit pointless( to me) as it's pretty identical to 2nd gear at speed(approx 5mph difference)... Edit: I should mention my ECU flash with Woolich from 2WDW was the 1st one done for the CP3 platform from 2WDW bout 3yrs ago using the shops FZ-09 so it's probably has been refined since then...

It's way to easy to over think suspension by just looking at numbers on paper but ultimately it comes down to gotta try it... but it's hard to simulate the real world conditions on paper such as nice race track vs normal roads with bumps, dips, crowns or some ppl carry higher RPMs in corners, different windscreens, riding styles, tires, frame bolt torque, motor mount torque, chain a bit longer... I had to change my suspension settings this year by basically mainly backing the fork preload off to almost nothing(didnt even check sag)because they resurfaced/ground down alot of roads around here, if I left the previous settings in the bike was very harsh in terms of comfort/rider confidence...

Some owners using the AkraTi on the MT-07 forum use the "MT-09" baffle as it's louder than the baffle supplied with the MT-07 AkraTi... The MT-07 has 2 exit holes vs 3 on the FZ/MT-09

Riding(ergos) position is still the same.. the reason "we" find that it helps to raise the forks approx 10mm is to add some triple digit speed stability, I found 15mm to be too much... this little motor got power to lift the front wheel a few inches quick shifting into 6th gear at 10k RPMs... In all honesty I really the the OEM tires, so my suspension settings will change again very shortly.... and I cannot really say these settings will help you as I know from experience your RPM ranges you ride in really effect how the suspension feels... I typically keep the RPMs above 4.5k , such as riding in a 0-35mph zone in 2nd gear vs 4th gear(?)..

It's the Uber secret super sprocket charger (super charger) making that "belt whine" ... Now you know why this little motor packs power above it's weight 🙃

I replace my "everyday" helmet every 3yrs( millage is hard to say) due to most manufacturers testing...but my race helmet gets replaced if I go down and bump my head on pavement/surface regardless of age/miles... I might reuse a race helmet as an everyday/snowmobile one if the lenses just got scuffed but not one with decent scuff marks from a race crash on the shell... Yea my everyday helmet gets beat up, rolled a few times across the ground chipping the paint, etc...

You mean quick shift up and auto-blipper down shifts... Just wait till you use the Launch Control 😏...

I'm thinking more along the lines of a Nissan GT-R or a Dorito Motor car( Rotary/ Wankel)... Civics, focus RS are to popular of choices...

Gold Wing = 2 wheel RV(motorhome) 🙃

I don't blame you but you get what you pay for... Superb craftsmanship, QC, proper taper/stepped headers... The entire header and mid pipe barely weight more than a can of pop(soda pop for the weirdos)... Same tune for the exhaust works with or without baffle...

Probably best deal is via 2WDW package ( exhaust and tune)- I highly recommend them using Woolich to tune your ECU 😁

The damping on the front sprocket is mainly '"noise reduction" but I find it creates an odd clunky vibration that gets worse with RPMs ... I find the chain rides on the forward facing outside link of chain rather than the actual inner chain rollers when using damping sprocket...

I recall some early testings back when the FZ-09 came out ppl, of course tried to get more power outta the airbox but the gains where minimal at best for the effort/ potential extra cost(tuner may not have files for all airbox mods-highly likely they will not)... It performs really good for the criteria it's gotta meet... If anything- remove the airbox and run some nice bellmouths with pod filters... Will need to some decent tuning to do this... For example running a pod filter on the FZ-07 with Yoshi exhaust and tune netted a little over 10hp bump in power with nothing being loss down low vs a Akra exhaust and tune which netted the avg 4-5hp aftermarket exhaust bump but has a little power loss down low - both cost almost the same identical price... Last I checked the FZ-09 and Tracer900 share same airbox part number

I barely crack the axle nut loose to adjust chain, just enough to use a tiny bit of effort to adjust blocks using chain alingment tool... I adjust my chain when it's warm also...

Possible the airbox breather hose is a bit twisted up... AIS hoses mixed up?...Airbox rubber boots on TBs not tight... I'm just thinking of all the things that get pulled off when the TBs get synch... The weird start and the fact it starts better after riding for about 10mins reminds me of when I didn't notice my airbox breather hose was twisted up... You should hear the distinct airbox whine if breather hose is not kinked up...

Hopefully this picture speaks in a universal language 😋

Truck bed liner spray...

Graves Exhaust...

I do know Graves fits the 1st Gen trail cage...

Not including my dirt bike from 2012- I still own my 4yr old 2015 HP-07( FZ/MT-07 w/ Hordpower airbox)- it's status is backup/loaner bike- but within the first 18months I started looking into a bigger bike that wasn't a 4cylinder... All 4cylinder bikes I have own have died/sold/traded within 18months... Enter the FJ-09 which has been my go to bike since 2016- it's gonna be around for a long time as I got plans for it next years winter😊... This little CP3 motor is a paradox... It's a little ole 840cc bruiser that can spin like a 600cc, has TQ like a twin but has liter bike power... Maybe in 2022? I will trade in my dirt bike and HP-07 for the Yamaha T7 as my FJ-09 won't be quite as easy to use on the streets after I transform it... I never cared for Kawasaki, Ducati, BMW(a 1/4 mile built s1000RR is one that's tugs at the soul, so it's excluded from being roped in with "BMW"), HD or KTM- riden plenty of them but they never really reached out to my soul looks wise/performance/how it feels/behaves...

I replace the air filter once a year but no more than 6k miles (2 oil changes)... All the high end filters such as KN, BMC is a waste of money ( approx $80 for filter, than $30 or so for recharging oils/cleaners,etc) when OEM is $20 or less and less hassle If anything I want a Hordpower Airbox for the FJ-09 like the airbox for the FZ-07 😍-- you think a tuned/piped FJ-09 is fast- but a proper airbox(sans noise regs, etc) will let the little ole CP3 truly shine with huge mid-top end gain...

Graves Motorsports Yamaha FZ-09 / FJ-09 / Tracer 900 / XSR-900 Full Ti Exhaust System – 2 Wheel DynoWorks Highly recommend having ECU flashed using Woolich Software via 2WDW...