Premium Member Brick Posted January 12, 2017 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 12, 2017 Bracket ordered from Cosmo! ? Brick 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 "Red Molly" 2014 Yamaha Super Tenere' ES 1999 Suzuki SV650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suncoaster Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 The Givi 2122DT screen leaves a lot of room for brackets. These are what I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/162326213305 Details: http://fj-09.org/post/42681/thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zachd Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 The Givi 2122DT screen leaves a lot of room for brackets. These are what I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/162326213305 Details: http://fj-09.org/post/42681/thread Looks like I know what I'm gonna do for a bracket. Much better than spending $50+ on the Cosmo bracket. Thanks for the linky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Brick Posted January 13, 2017 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 13, 2017 Yea I don't have the space either. Brick 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 "Red Molly" 2014 Yamaha Super Tenere' ES 1999 Suzuki SV650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 13, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 13, 2017 The Givi 2122DT screen leaves a lot of room for brackets.These are what I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/162326213305 Details: http://fj-09.org/post/42681/thread Similar to what I built using my own brackets and a slotted rail which accepts RAM T-clamps ball mounts. The rail enable use of its full 12-inch length without interference from your mounting brackets, and your tube presumably requires 7/8" handlebar clamps with a ball mount which usually require a wrench or sockets to adjust and need to be tightened securely or they will rotate on the tube. The RAM rail balls http://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-354U-TRA1 can be loosened and tightened by hand and are infinitely adjustable laterally in the slotted rail (aluminum version linked, I used the plastic 12" which were $18 for two) https://www.yakattack.us/GT90_12_1PK_p/gt90-12.htm is very sturdy, slim and compact compared to a tube rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suncoaster Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Nice system. It would work for cameras and other accessories too. I put the 7/8 tube there because I used a GPS case that mounts directly on handlebars, so did not need RAM balls. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zachd Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Looks like I know what I'm gonna do for a bracket. Much better than spending $50+ on the Cosmo bracket. Thanks for the linky Does look nice..... just no way this would work with the Puig screen without some funky stand-offs... acres of space in the photo . There is a mounting plate with a similar bar, also available from CosmoMoto, if you don't have luxury of space above/behind the dash display. Are you 100% that it wont fit with the Puig?? Both screens mount to the same point, don't they? Which should leave the same gap? I am running the Puig Touring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suncoaster Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 The Givi screen has a mounting bracket, "D2122KIT", that the screen mounts on. Much more room behind it. The holes are different. I've redrilled the stock screen and mounted it on the Givi kit for summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treybrad Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 The Givi 2122DT screen leaves a lot of room for brackets. So does the big ugly, aka Madstad. Just bolted one of these into the base plate: trey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BentAero Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 @suncoaster , Did you drill it with a common drill bit? Keep Asheville weird! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suncoaster Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 @suncoaster , Did you drill it with a common drill bit? Yes, low speed, then finished with a flame from a gas torch. Cut the top off at the same time, which got rid of the buffeting vortices. http://fj-09.org/post/51810/thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zachd Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Are you 100% that it wont fit with the Puig?? Both screens mount to the same point, don't they? Which should leave the same gap? I am running the Puig Touring. ...well, never 100%, but there's oodles of space in the Givi setup, compared to what I have with the Puig Touring. Even with the CosoMoto setup and the short RAM arm, I have to angle the GPS just so, or it will a) block the dash display, or b) be too close, or touch the screen (issue I did have to fix with 1/4" stand-offs). I believe the distance from the dash to the screen and the screen angle itself are different in the Givi design. Might be useful to note that I run the screen fixed permanently in the highest position. I use the short RAM arm to minimize vibes. You can experiment... If you can make the bar setup work (and the devices will fit properly) with the Puig Touring....I'd love to see. Well I got my ECU back from 2WDW on Friday, so I got my bike put back together tonight. After re-installing the Puig screen, I think you're definitely right that it wont fit. I ordered the brackets already, so I'll still give it a whirl and see if I can get anything to work. Worst case scenario I wasted $6.50 lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadinfast Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Thank you Cylinder, As an old paddle sports guy I knew this was an elegant solution to what I wanted for my bike. I used the poly T rail as I thought it would absorb vibration better and for the rest I just followed your directions. It actually went easier than I expected. I don't think there is a system out there flexible as this is. I have my car GPS on the left and my EZ pass on the right. I can set them anywhere I please or take them off in a hurry if I am going to be off the bike. I installed this with the stock windscreen and used a couple of 1 inch and 1/2 inch spacers and the longer bolts to go with them, for the wiggle room needed for the rail. The best of all is you don't need tools to reset or add anything. Thanks again for sharing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted February 24, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted February 24, 2017 Glad my design worked out for you. Here is my current set-up with lower bars that really helped the handling considerably due to more forward lean and better, more swept wrist angle. Note: The twin LED driving that are normally mounted to front of Givi case guards and Shad SH36 side cases are not installed in the full side view, as I had the front fairing stripped to check the TB sync, change the plugs, check the valves and remove the ECU to send in for a re-flash (I'll have Kev's O2 controller for sale afterward which works very well but I want to have A mode default, get rid of the various restrictions and maybe get a quick shifter, etc) but we had a crazy stretch of 50, 60 and then 70 degree weather here (sadly now over but I'm not complaining) so I threw the FJ together for a couple of 300 mile rides, and the driving lights have to be pulled to remove the front fairing and I normally don't mount the side cases unless I'm doing overnighters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted March 3, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted March 3, 2017 Here is my current set-up with lower bars that really helped the handling considerably due to more forward lean and better, more swept wrist angle... 2and3 - I'm REALLY interested in what you've done here, and wonder if you can elaborate on the specific handlebars you're using. I run the seat in the high position, and the stock handlebars/risers in the forward setting, but still want a little more weight to the front. Now that I've done the Ohlins shock and fork work, it is even more apparent to me that I need to make a modification similar to yours... I've contemplated machining some off of the bottom of the stock risers, but what you have done here looks like a much cleaner answer. Thanks in advance for any information you can provide. -Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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