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how to wire-in front LEDS - help sought please...


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I think these are the connectors for the 2 open power connections behind the windscreen.  One side is wired and ready to go already on the bike.  However the Cycle Terminal website confused me with its labeling of male and female being opposite of what I'd have thought, so I ordered both connectors just in case the pics are labeled wrong.  Will try them when they arrive.
 
 
 
 
 
"2 pin MT .090 - 2.3mm Male and Female locking connector
 
Comes with Terminals and seals Sumitomo p/n: 6187-2311 and 6180-2321"
 
 
http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-series-090.html
 
 
 

https://ridemsta.com/oh-tmr/  Riding makes me happy. "Do it or don't do it - you'll regret both." - Soren Kierkegaard

2015 FJ-09, 60k miles, Hord Power ECU, K-Tech suspension, MC Cruise

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  • 8 months later...
2 minutes ago, kimmie said:

Thanks @wordsmith

@bigorangecntry07 my husband wired mine in for me but I'm not sure where he got the instructions from or whether he just knew how to do it.

 

@bigorangecntry07 seems a couple pages back I pm'd some instruction to a couple fellas. I can see if the pm is still on here and send it to you if you like.

 

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Kimmie......the lady who likes to take little detours :)

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I got to the point where I had too many electrical gadgets (GPS, lights, heated seat, etc) that I wasn't comfortable just connecting them all to the battery. I did some research, and chose the Fuse Block FZ1. It's around $90 from AdventureDesigns (AdvDesigns.com) 

The Fuse Block needs to be connected to the battery for power, and it also needs to be grounded somewhere on the bike. Optionally, but very useful, is the third wire which provides you with switched power. (When the bike is on, these circuits are live. When you turn the bike off, they stop working) This keeps your battery from getting drained if you forget to turn off a GPS or other device.

The installation is pretty simple, and most folks will be able to work through the process if you take your time. The hardest part is if you want to tap into the switched power, as you will have to make a connection to a wire that works only when the power is turned on.

I ran the positive and negative connection from the Fuse Block to the battery directly. I used a PosiTap connector to connect the switched power, and used the tail light wire for this.

Now, I can add new electrical devices and wire them back to the Fuse Block (there are 6 spaces to add devices) and you can choose if you want each one to be switched or always live. I've had mine for a few years, and no issues. Keeps the wiring off the battery terminals, and you can document what each wire goes to on the cap of the fuse block. 

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