Chain Recommendation?

[phpaul]

Resurrecting this thread and adding a bit of drift...
 
I stopped at a store a couple of miles from home after a long ride and didn't bother putting my ear plugs back in.  Noticed a LOT of noise from the chain.  Bike is approaching 11,000 miles so decided to pull the cover and have a real good look at chain and sprockets.
 
Front sprocket is showing definite signs of wear, rear sprocket looks good, chain is a little dry.  Area under the front sprocket cover was disgusting!  I've been using Motul paste/wax type lubricant.  Haven't taken the chain off to check for side plate wear but after 11K, I'd suspect replacing it would be a good idea.
 
This leads me to a few questions:
 
1.  @betoney, are you happy with your choice of sprockets and chain?
 
2.  Is there a reason that these chains use a peened rivet or break-off screw master link vs. the side-plate-and-clip style I'm used to?  Power level too much for the old style master links maybe?
 
3.  I've always heard that it's best to replace chain and sprockets as a set, but the rear sprocket looks pretty much virginal.    
 
I don't want to break the chain to get it off until I've decide if, and with what, I'm going to replace it.  
 
I'm tempted to replace the front sprocket for now and then do the whole job at the end of the season.  Possibly false economy tho.

[koth442]

I don't replace chain and sprockets as a set.
 
Can you pull the chain off the rear sprocket at all? Just pinch it firmly and yank with your fingers. See how much (if any) daylight you can see inbetween the sprocket and the chain.

[betoney]

1.  @betoney , are you happy with your choice of sprockets and chain?

 
Yes, I am extremely happy with the set from Sprocket Center 
 
Their sprockets wear like iron.  Honestly, I probably could have just ordered a new chain and been fine but I have always ordered as a set on both street and dirt bikes.  I may reconsider that mindset in the future.
 
 

[duhs10]

I'm at 13500 miles.. chain is getting close but still good. Rear sprocket shows almost no noticeable wear. Front sprocket has more. Think I will do just a front sprocket and chain when the time comes.

[trokarr]

Resurrecting this thread and adding a bit of drift... 
I stopped at a store a couple of miles from home after a long ride and didn't bother putting my ear plugs back in.  Noticed a LOT of noise from the chain.  Bike is approaching 11,000 miles so decided to pull the cover and have a real good look at chain and sprockets.
 
Front sprocket is showing definite signs of wear, rear sprocket looks good, chain is a little dry.  Area under the front sprocket cover was disgusting!  I've been using Motul paste/wax type lubricant.  Haven't taken the chain off to check for side plate wear but after 11K, I'd suspect replacing it would be a good idea.
 
This leads me to a few questions:
 
1.  @betoney , are you happy with your choice of sprockets and chain?
 
2.  Is there a reason that these chains use a peened rivet or break-off screw master link vs. the side-plate-and-clip style I'm used to?  Power level too much for the old style master links maybe?
 
3.  I've always heard that it's best to replace chain and sprockets as a set, but the rear sprocket looks pretty much virginal.    
 
I don't want to break the chain to get it off until I've decide if, and with what, I'm going to replace it.  
 
I'm tempted to replace the front sprocket for now and then do the whole job at the end of the season.  Possibly false economy tho.

I just replaced the front sprocket, chain and rear sprocket on mine after 12,450 miles.  I also heard that the three should be replaced as a set.  My front sprocket and chain were toast but my rear sprocket showed no wear even when put up against a new JT sprocket.  I did change all three but I kept the OEM rear sprocket and will reuse it when (if) my JT sprocket wears out.  I would recommend just getting the front and chain if the rear looks good.  I used a staked rivet master link because that is what the chain manufacturer recommended and supplied with the chain.  I'm sure there will be a lot debate about which type of master link to use, but the clip style can come off and you don't want the chance of your chain bunching up at the front sprocket and damaging the engine case ($$$).  Breaking the chain is easy even without a chain tool; grind the rivet heads flat and punch the pins out with a center punch or pry the link off with a screw driver (less than 5 min job).

[phpaul]

So, I tried the "pull the chain away from the rear sprocket" check and it barely moved.
 
Cleaned and lubed it, adjusted the slack and went for a short test ride, MUCH quieter. At this point the plan is to ride it for the rest of the season and then order a new set as part of the over-winter Farkles and Maintenance Extravaganza.

[betoney]

So, I tried the "pull the chain away from the rear sprocket" check and it barely moved. 
Cleaned and lubed it, adjusted the slack and went for a short test ride, MUCH quieter. At this point the plan is to ride it for the rest of the season and then order a new set as part of the over-winter Farkles and Maintenance Extravaganza.

 
If its not pulling away from the sprocket and doesn't have any obvious overly light or loose spots, keep maintaining it and use it for the rest of the season, unless you have high mileage planned for the rest of the season.
 
 

[koth442]

At the risk of starting a debate of clip vs rivet master link debate:
 
The only time I've seen either fail is when the master was installed improperly. The clip is easier to screw up and thus fails more frequently. The rivet type is less easy to screw up because you're just smashing that pin. Brute force without the finesse of navigating that clip into its guides without over stretching it.
 
Just my $.02

[koth442]

At the risk of starting a debate of clip vs rivet master link debate:  
The only time I've seen either fail is when the master was installed improperly....

...so when installed correctly... it work good, no? It would be my preference if there were an option.

Yes. I've run clip masters a lot on many different bikes. I raced my SV650 for 4 seasons or so using clip type masters. Also my Daytona 675 which was tracked a few times. The most common installation mistake I see (and have done regrettably) is not getting the clip into the grooves and shoving it on. That will over stretch the clip and it will fail.  
A pair of channel locks is my preferred method for installing and removing the clips. Space the channel locks properly, get one jaw on the edge of the clip, the other on a pin and squeeze. That will pop the old clip off. Same procedure but backwards for new clips. Just make sure the clip is well seated in the groove before you do this.

[koth442]

I've worked with clip-type master links on chains, but never in this application (conveyor belts etc.). They are super convenient. Do you know if these would be available for our chain size/load? I also recall that they needed to be installed with the open end away from direction of rotation.... still true?

That's a good question. I'm no where near needing to replace the OEM chain so I haven't looked into it. Our chain size is 525 which is common, but I'm unsure what the tensile requirements are. The CP3 puts down a fair amount of torque. This might require something like an X-ring chain which would have the rivet type master.

[micah2074]

That's a good question. I'm no where near needing to replace the OEM chain so I haven't looked into it. Our chain size is 525 which is common, but I'm unsure what the tensile requirements are. The CP3 puts down a fair amount of torque. This might require something like an X-ring chain which would have the rivet type master.

Not sure I want to buck the trend here... I think I will abandon the dream and just get a rivet tool.

 
Riveting the chain isn’t difficult. You could also just use one of these....
http://www.moto-chains.com/site/898528/product/mstr%20-%20screw

[koth442]

Well... I fussed over the choices for a bit and pulled the trigger on DID 525VX, stock gearing JT sprockets (no dampener), and an optional clip type master link (chain comes with rivet type link). The clip type link is offered by DID, comes with x-rings and is rated for this application. I will give it a go and we'll see what happens . It will be time to act soon as I picked up a bunch of slack recently. 

Great! let us (especially me haha) know how it works out. 

[vijay]

I want to start by saying, as anyone who has seen any of my earlier questions, I am not good mechanically. But, I am paranoid about oiling, adjusting and cleaning my chain and sprocket. I got almost 17,800 on the OEM stock set. But the chain was well and truly done as was the front sprocket was showing significant wear. Amazingly the rear sprocket still looked great.
 
After talking to a couple of racers as well as Sprocket Center and 2 other online vendors. They all asked me the exactly same question. What is your goal, speed, weight or longevity. Since my "Arse Dyno" can't tell if I have gained or loss 2 or 3 hp with a light weight chain I went with Longevity. They pretty well said that with the FJO9 or FZ09 that the EX or DID VX was perfectly adequate on our little triples, and that the ZVMX "x" ring chain was overkill.
 
One of the ex-racers said however with proper adjusting, cleaning and most of all Lubing he said he thought doubling the chain life (almost 36,000 miles then) was doable as 2 of his customers (one with an FZ-1 and the other with a Suzuki Bandit) had both upgraded to the significanly stronger and heavier ZVMX "x" ring chain and were both at over 30,000 miles on them and they looked great.
 
I saw the one on the Bandit and was truly surprised at the lack of play in the chain. In the 1,000 miles since I changed both chain an sprockets I am still surprised at quiet it is, how much better it shifts and the fact that I haven't needed to adjust it even the tiniest bit. I even took off the cover and looked at the counter sprocket. While obviously, it is still early I just couldn't see any wear yet at all.
 
Accordingly, I am going to continue to be my paranoid chain self and monitor condition but if my ex-racer/mechanic friend is right and proper maintenance might double the life .... it certainly worth the extra weight and cost. Particularly as I haven't noticed a bit of difference in acceleration; and it sure is quiet now.
 
 

[vijay]

Piotek:
 
You are correct and I was unclear:
 
You stated: 
 
Just to clarify... the VX is x-ring. I just put one on... stock lasted 30,000km. I expect that the new chain will go longer. I don't lube religiously, but do check and lube when I think it needs lubing, if that makes sense. Proper slack will help too.

I should have said the DID 525 VX and the the EK 525 MVXC.  As the recommended.  I simply went with the approximately $80 more expensive chain as it was rated to a much higher horsepower ... and accordingly weighs a lot more too ... DID ZVMX "X" ring.  As said, I don't have the personal experience to know if it will last as much longer as I have been told.  But after seeing the much more powerful Bandit's chain condition and the FZ-1 picture from my buddy ... I decided to see if the big chain is worth the price.  Only time and my maintenance will be the final arbiter if weather I made a prudent choice or really ended up throwing money in the wind.  I hope I'm right, but ......
 
 

[jojosz]

My recommendation is RK Racing Chain GB525GXW. So far the smoothest and most durable I ever used - last one changed @23k miles with some life left.