poppop Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 While replacing my tires last week on my 2017 FJ-09 I found the two lower front brake attaching caliper bolts had a great deal of corrosion and rust. The bolts for the upper attaching points were like new. Have new bolts ordered but of course they are not in stock and won't get them till next month! Has anyone else seen this problem? When I put new tires on last year all 4 bolts looked like new. Any idea(s) what the cause could be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Probably got some water in there washing your bike. I always put a light coating of grease on axles, axle nuts, caliper bolts, including the threads. Allows a true torque reading, comes apart smoothly and no rust or corrosion. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted June 27, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted June 27, 2020 Actually lubing fasteners will cause over tensioning and could cause failure either during tightening or under active load. Rule of thumb is tension values (torque) should be reduced 5 ~10%, or more for course thread pitch. Titanium fasteners are significantly more corrosion resistant and reduce unsprung weight on wheel assemblies. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmark101 Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Noticed the same thing when removing the caliper bolts on my GT. The lower bolts had a lot of white residue that appeared to be some sort of oxidization. Cleaned them up as much as I could with brake parts cleaner. May replace them next time I need to change tires. Considered coating them with a little bit of anti seize but did not due to concerns about it affecting torque on install. 1 There is nothing like spending a day riding with friends in the grip of a shared obsession. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddtr Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 I have never owned a torque wrench and probably never will. I do my own wrenching and have never had any issues with anything that I’ve ever messed with. Now I haven’t rebuilt a complete motor before but have replaced one before with another. Do most of you really torque everything to exactly what the book says? Maybe I’ve been lucky all these years but I don’t see me purchasing one unless it’s absolutely required. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 I use a torque wrench on brakes, suspension, wheels and engine. Not for small fasteners. I ignore the torque adjustment recommended if you put something on the thread and use copper grease on most fixings unless the manual says to use threadlock. I also ignore the manual values where they have been reported to be too high by forum members. I have three torques wrenches to cover the range of tightening values, the smallest was bought for my pedal cycle. In the end...do whatever floats your boat, it’s your bike. 1 Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted June 27, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted June 27, 2020 3 hours ago, Toddtr said: I have never owned a torque wrench and probably never will. I do my own wrenching and have never had any issues with anything that I’ve ever messed with. Now I haven’t rebuilt a complete motor before but have replaced one before with another. Do most of you really torque everything to exactly what the book says? Maybe I’ve been lucky all these years but I don’t see me purchasing one unless it’s absolutely required. I kind of work with the same mindset, I use a torque wrench on a few bolts but most is by sense of 'feel', especially since some of the values in the manual are incorrect - and same as you I have never lost a bolt or had anything come loose. If I was inside the motor, I would be critical about keeping it in spec. - that's just me. 1 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted June 27, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted June 27, 2020 If I know what the torque value is for a fastener, I use a torque wrench. It's old habit from working on aircraft where EVERY fastener has a torque spec. Overkill, maybe. For some things it's pretty critical, such as cylinder head bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Only thing I use a torque wrench for is engine components like cylinder head studs and cam caps. Sorry what were we talking about?? Oh yeah, OP you could go to the hardware store and pick up some new fasteners. I've done this many times. Or check eBay for a used set. 1 1 '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted June 27, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted June 27, 2020 5 hours ago, johnmark101 said: Considered coating them with a little bit of anti seize I am also a fan of using a small bit of anti-sieze. 👍 3 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tktplz Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, betoney said: I kind of work with the same mindset, I use a torque wrench on a few bolts but most is by sense of 'feel', especially since some of the values in the manual are incorrect - and same as you I have never lost a bolt or had anything come loose. If I was inside the motor, I would be critical about keeping it in spec. - that's just me. If I have to pull the cams to do a valve adjustment I use a torque wrench but as far as axles, brakes, oil plug, etc I do it by feel for 55 years. And yes to anti seize on brake bolts, axle and spark plugs. Also I thought about it and my bikes are always stored indoors, climate control. I really haven't had rust or oxidation problems before with those bolts or any on the exterior of the bike. It's not until the last couple of bikes that I haven't trailered them to meets, 5X10 cargo trailer. Now I ride the FJ to Arkansas and Texas meets but NC and Kentucky rides I trailer. Edited June 27, 2020 by tktplz Ain't no fun when the rabbit gets the gun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmark101 Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 There is much that goes into determining a torque value for a particular fastener. Application, load bearing, metallurgy, thread pitch, fastener size etc. But that rear axle nut torque does seem awfully high per the service manual. 2 There is nothing like spending a day riding with friends in the grip of a shared obsession. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member piotrek Posted June 27, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted June 27, 2020 18 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said: Actually lubing fasteners will cause over tensioning and could cause failure either during tightening or under active load. Rule of thumb is tension values (torque) should be reduced 5 ~10%, or more for course thread pitch. Titanium fasteners are significantly more corrosion resistant and reduce unsprung weight on wheel assemblies. This ^. Torque for some internal engine bolts (camshaft caps etc.) is specified wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted June 28, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted June 28, 2020 I use a TW on critical fasteners, except smaller ones I also often x feel but values for oiled bolts like cam covers are as given. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted July 1, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted July 1, 2020 White corrosion comes from aluminum... i don't think those bolts are aluminum, but the calipers are. Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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