OIL ?

[edgarjessop12]

Hi,

Just a heads up. Do any of you use Motul 300v Fully Synthetic Racing oil in your Tracer 900 GT.

I know it is VERY expensive , but I have used it for the last 10 years on my Honda FireBlade and Kawasaki Ninja ZZR1400.

I am not sure I heard someone say not advisable for use in the Tracer 900 GT ......... I could be wrong. at 74 ....I usually am Hahaha.  

And also anyone use 15-50 in stead of 10-40 ?  I only ride in summer .

Cheers.

Edgar Jessop

[koth442]

I'm sure 300V would work just fine.

[Ride365]

Total overkill IMHO and is true racing oil and formulated that way, however I run Motul 7100 10W40 ester synthetic and won't be using anything else going forward.

[Wintersdark]

Oh!  Oil thread!

 

Best way to uselessly waste money.  Use a synthetic that meets all the requirements asked for(Specifically, JASO MA and API Service SG, in the appropriate viscosity for your temperature range) , change it when it's supposed to be changed, and it will make *no difference whatsoever* to use more expensive oil.  

It's just money spent to get a warm glowy feeling of spending more money on your baby.  

[littlebruv]

I use Rock oil fully synthetic 10W-40, use the best possible

[tktplz]

Oh no he didn't!!!!  

[tktplz]

3 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Oh!  Oil thread!

 

Best way to uselessly waste money. 

I think vitamins are the BEST way to uselessly waste money IMHO, LOL!

[skipperT]

22 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

 

It's just money spent to get a warm glowy feeling of spending more money on your baby.  

... with one exception. Motul 7100 smells so good!!

Not like a good meal, but still. If I didn’t know it was oil, I’d try a spoonful...

-Skip

[Ride365]

3 hours ago, skipperT said:

... with one exception. Motul 7100 smells so good!!

Not like a good meal, but still. If I didn’t know it was oil, I’d try a spoonful...

-Skip

Because it's unicorn blood!!

[Salish900]

On 3/14/2021 at 5:53 AM, edgarjessop12 said:

Do any of you use Motul 300v Fully Synthetic Racing oil in your Tracer 900 GT.

I'll just mention as it hasn't been, that I've read that 300 lacks the composition to be a longer term oil since it is intended for racing. I'm not an oil expert (nor do I play one on the internet), but 300 doesn't have the stabilizers or things needed. I use 7100 for that reason, as it is more their "every day" oil. 

[daboo]

I've been using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 for years now on all my bikes.  I started when I bought a bike that had a wet clutch, and the "experts" on the forum all recommended it.  So I did what I usually do and started doing some research.

I went to Bob is the Oil Guy forum.  One of the things I realized after a few hours on the forum, was that they have their own "experts" there, and anyone can become an "expert".

But one thing did stand out for me.  Shell Rotella is sold as a diesel oil primarily.  We're not talking about a VW diesel engine, but diesel engines that are used on construction machinery or semi's where taking a vehicle offline to do an oil change, costs a lot of money.  The operators don't get moved by the marketing hype on the container.  They just want something they know works.

Shell Rotella meets JASO requirements.  I can buy a 5qt jug for around $20 at Home Depot or Wally World.  In other words, 5 qts of it is about what one quart of Motul oil sells for.  And it sure seems to work just as well.

One objection might be that the viscosity doesn't exactly meet what your bike manufacturer recommends.  I haven't worried about it.  Within a minute or two, my bike's engine temp is to the point where the oil is up at the 40 weight.  If it concerns you enough, there's also a Shell Rotella T6 in a 15W-40.

FWIW, my BMW F800GT doesn't use oil, and it has over 65,000 miles on it...all with Shell Rotella T6.  Chances are, some of you won't even get that many miles before you sell the bike.

Chris

 

[Ride365]

None of my bikes I've owned shifted very well with the Rotella oils or not for long, but yeah for a non moto oil it's solid stuff overall and readily available. 

[Salish900]

19 minutes ago, Ride365 said:

None of my bikes I've owned shifted very well with the Rotella oils or not for long, but yeah for a non moto oil it's solid stuff overall and readily available. 

This was my experience. Lots of T6 fans and rightly so. But my bikes got notchy really quick with it when shifting. The 900 with the slipper and assist clutch is so butter smooth, the T6 may work just fine. I'm most persuaded by the reality that when is the last time you heard of an engine failing from bad oil? All my years on forums with so many bikes, and never once can I recall a post on an engine blowing up, or pistons wearing out, or any mechanical damage from inside an engine from one brand of oil or another. Japanese bikes, like fiberglass boats, don't die, they have to be murdered! I'm a bit of a Francophile, so I justify the Motul, but don't push me hard because I can't go far in justifying it. 

[Skidood]

What??    You mean I can't use Slick 50  ????

[2and3cylinders]

I also use T6 5W-40 for all my vehicles.  My FJ shifts very well with it.  Minimizing clutch lever free play and optimizing shift lever height for your boot really helps.  Of course shifting technique and going to a 16 XSR slip-assist clutch could be a positive factor.

In my 98 VTR1000F (bought new), as soon as it hit 1,500 miles, I went with the old Mobil 1 for probably 50,000 miles before they changed the formulation.  I've been using T6 since with no issues and it now has over 111,000 miles!  Same thing with my 15 FJ, as soon as I hit 1,500 I went with the Yamaha blend, then their full synthetic because they had/have the 100,000 mile oil / filter warranty deal but it got too cumbersome to update my account.  So I went to the T6 and installed the modified threaded thing the filter screws onto so the new style concave hub filters don't leak.