betoney

^^Exactly^^ So many variables that can attribute to a fantastic ride or make you want to turn around and go back home. Even when on a road trip, I keep interstate highway riding to a minimum unless I absolutely have to make up time. When riding from state to state, I still plan the route through 'fun roads', sometimes even going out of the way to reach those roads. From where I live, I could get to Missoula Montana, Boise Idaho or Redding California in just over 8 hours on the interstate but the 'enjoyable' route takes me 2 full days.

Its funny, when riding with buddies, I get MUCH lower mileage in a day, BS'ing, longer breaks and lunch etc. When riding solo, I am out to RIDE. When I stop for gas, I use the restroom and then get back on the road, when I stop for lunch, its a quick bite and then back on the road. I find that I get much more stiff and sore from highway riding because I am not moving as much, winding mountain roads keep me moving around on the bike as well as more mentally focused. Yes, I like to keep the scenery and road type varied and interesting.

Ive said it before, our winters absolutely SUCK in the Pacific Northwest but late Spring through early-mid Fall can be unbelievable. The variety of terrain for riding is amazing, from lush coastal forests to mountain passes to rocky canyons and dry higher elevation desert.

I was able to take the bike out for a post Memorial Day ride - 443 miles today! I went down to the Columbia River Gorge and Klickitat Canyon. AWESOME day for a ride, right around 70 degrees. 👍 Cape Horn, overlooking the Columbia River Bridge of the Gods, on the Columbia River Riding up toward Klickitat Canyon Klickitat Canyon Mt. Adams, obscured by clouds Glenwood Highway Glenwood Overlook

@hammer - One more thing to check... When you had the wheel off to change tires, did you remove the sprocket carrier /cush drive from the wheel? The sprocket carrier separates from the wheel and has the rubber dampers inside, separate it from the wheel and re-seat it, make sure it is fully inserted in the hub.

I suppose I fall into that demographic...😲 When doing the above procedure I always have the bike leaned over on the side stand so the filler neck is the highest point in the system, the air bubbles come right out.

Exactly! If it worked before the wheel was removed and then doesn't work anymore when reassembled, the answer is somewhere in the assembly.

Good luck with a resolution and keep us updated on anything you find.

I haven't heard anything regarding pricing or an actual release date but expect it to be close to what you are guessing.

Agreed, I have no issues with the LCD on the standard Tracer and older FJ. I also really like a sweep needle tachometer.

Jokes??? how are you mis-interpreting this thread? When you read the post it is obvious that everyone is trying to help him fix his issue.

My thoughts exactly. The 890 Duke is an improvement on the 790 in almost every way, I am very curious if KTM will eventually release a 890 GT version. It is indeed a great time to have so many options.

I have ridden the last 2 generations of Tuono and they are indeed amazing machines. WAY more power than you could realistically need and absolutely effortless to ride - and ride FAST. If the smaller 660 is anything like the bigger models then that little bike will be INSANE.

Just an update to keep you salivating... The Italian styling, fit and finish is absolutely impeccable. 😲

At least ask your local dealer to see if it is an option. There might be some differences in Canada?

I am fortunate to have a GREAT local dealer, I have been a customer for over 15 years. Concerning the Y.E.S. warranty, were you aware that you can sell it back if you don't want it? When I got mine, that was one point they emphasized a few times that if I decided I didn't want the remainder of the warranty then I could cancel anytime and get a pro-rated refund for the remainder of the term that I didn't use.

So, when the caliper is removed from the carrier the wheel spins freely... If you loosen the axle nut does the wheel and brake carrier slide forward and back smoothly in the swingarm? The carrier has a slot or channel that mates with a tab on the swingarm which should allow the wheel to travel - smoothly - about 2" fore and aft . The only thing I am coming up with is when the caliper is on the carrier it is causing binding like something is possibly mis-aligned with the carrier. Other than that, I am out of ideas to help. sorry.

This is the confusing part, the wheel is hard to turn yet you have zero brake pedal feel. With the bike up on the center stand can you move the wheel by hand? If you remove the caliper from the brake carrier does the wheel suddenly free up or is it still hard to rotate?

When you crack open the bleed port and pump the pedal, you are getting a constant flow of fluid with no air bubbles? - I'm trying to determine a positive flow from the reservoir through the MC to the caliper. With the caliper off the bike, if you pump the pedal, does the piston extend? Remove the brake pads and put a flat piece of wood or a flat bar in the caliper, if you pump the brake does the piston extend enough to hold the piece of wood or flat bar tight - simulating the rotor. Using the flat bar can you easily push/pull the piston back into the caliper? Assuming that fluid is flowing through the system to the bleed port and the piston is moving freely in and out of the caliper, then I too am stumped.

I'm sure there will always be service managers who will fight tooth and nail to avoid submitting a warranty claim and that's unfortunate, my experience has been the exact opposite. I have the 5 year Y.E.S. warranty and my bike has had 4 warranty repairs, all at the service managers insistence. Front brake calipers, 12v accessory power socket, clutch basket and ABS pump. They are fully aware that my bike is far from stock and that I have done most of the work myself, including having the ECU flashed. Anytime a part has failed it has always been them suggesting "Why don't I write up a warranty claim and get it replaced for you".

@duhg - LOTS of squiggly lines on the map. Looks good to me! 😎👍

Hopefully it a simple fix, if the reservoir is full and your pedal is dead, then you have a system full of air, how that happened is anybodys guess, luckily bleeding the system just takes a minute - watch your fluid level while you bleed it!!

Absolutely 100% proper fit now.👍

I cant understand how bumping the pedal or even pumping it several times deliberately would result in zero pedal feel. How is the fluid level in the reservoir? Like I said, a quick bleed to check for air bubbles just takes a minute. Are you familiar with the procedure?

To deny warranty coverage they would have to prove that the oil specifically contributed to the failure. If the oil meets or exceeds the JASO-MA and API SG standard then it is rated for motorcycle use.