betoney

That sounds AWESOME! Make the most out of the PNW's somewhat limited riding season. 👍

+1 175-185 is my normal, I have hit 200 or above only 3 times.

Out of curiosity, I tried this myself yesterday. Recent snows meant no road testing, just backed out of the garage a few feet with the air temp a few degrees above freezing. I started the bike and immediately set the grips to high, which for my settings was heat level 7 (I have mine set 3/5/7). I ran the bike for close to 10 minutes and the grips never got hot, just comfortably warm - no gloves or grip puppies, just bare hands on the grips. Normally, while riding, I occasionally use medium (lvl 5) with winter gloves and my hands get very warm and I never use the high setting. I'm not sure if there is an ECU setting that limits the heat output at idle or only changes at a certain operating rpm but my grips normally get much warmer than what I experienced while letting the bike idle.

If it wasn't so expensive, I would like to do the same thing. Many times I have used a set of tires to within the last 1,000-1,500 miles of their life and had an upcoming road trip coming in a week or so. Once I have swapped a tire, I don't want to swap an old tire back on just to use the last 1,000 miles of tread, it would be nice to simply swap wheels when the need comes, or have one set of wheels with sport tires and one set with S/T tires.

Motul full synthetic is between $17 and $22 per liter (7100 or 300v?) Changing it with only 2500 miles of use seems foolish to me, kind of expensive to throw it away for no reason.

Very nice, the bike is coming together piece by piece! Bring on the Spring weather! When removing the rotor mount bolts use heat and direct, even pressure. The threads have Loc-Tite and it could be easy to round out the head of the bolt.

@new1709rider - Thank you for getting these parts fixed so they work properly. That looks so much better than anything I could have attempted without the proper tools. 👍

A spacer. Something to wedge in the socket to keep the plug tight. When I used my 12v socket, I would have to wrap electrical tape around the plug to add width and push it in tight, by buddy also has a '15 FJ and would occasionally push a thin piece of cardboard between the plug and socket but it would eventually vibrate loose on both bikes no matter what we tried.

We ALL have our Homer moments. 😎👍

Great job fabricating the parts, very functional. 👍

That is what I was going to suggest. Keep us posted with your findings. Good luck. 👍

Did the issue start when you installed the cartridges or have you had the cartridges installed for awhile?

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Welcome. The FJ/ Tracer is a great bike as its big enough to feel comfortable on long road trips on the highways but small enough to be light and nimble in the twisty mountain and canyon roads. - I do a lot of both. The GT comes very well equipped from the factory, most of the personalization you might need to do will likely be comfort and ergonomics. I would highly recommend a radiator guard right away, the rest is all personal preference. I have wanted to venture down that way for years, specifically Gila National Forest and SE Arizona, the riding looks fantastic.

@dazzler24 - On page 2 of this thread he mentioned normal routine maintenance but needing to replace the fuel pump at 53,000 miles. At the rate that I ride (14-15k per year) it would take me about 15 years to achieve the same milestone as @olddawg. I would be thrilled if that is the only major issue.

Congratulations, that is quite an accomplishment. That averages to over 3,500 miles every single month, where do you ride to? I mean, are you still riding to new destinations every month?

@autiger - welcome and congrats on the new bike. From your introduction, it sounds like you are aware of the MCCruise, it works GREAT! I would also suggest a radiator guard, the fins can be easily bent and you wouldn't want a rock to fly up and end your day. Since you already have an FJR, you already have fully compatible side bags, you will just need the bottom mount brackets. Enjoy the new ride.

Yes, you will want to install it in the correct orientation, pos to pos and neg to neg.

That works for me. @new1709rider - send me your mailing address and I will get them in the mail and then you and @fddriver2 can work out the rest of the transaction.

That is the key right there, one setting at a time and eventually you will get it dialed in. 👍

@fddriver2 - Since I am not using them, you can have them for free. All I ask is in exchange that you make a modest donation to @Cruizin to help keep the bills paid. If interested, send me a PM with your shipping info.

That's a very generous offer but I am already using a different axle block now. Thank you for the offer. 👍

Agreed, if you have a way to make accurate index marks, then these might work well for you. Like I said, they do seem to be built well otherwise, they just didn't work for me. 👍

Most of the deflectors that I have seen are available in 2 sizes with the smaller versions needing 8-9" width on the top of the screen to mount and the larger ones needing around 11" width for the mount arms. I haven't used the single center mount versions but yes, they should work on any shield.

I took a chance on these Chinese knock-offs from Ebay. While they are constructed fine, they have no index notch or mark on the center black axle block to reference with the measurement marks. With no point of reference they are effectively worthless. I tried them for awhile and the only way that I could measure distance was with a digital caliper on each side, getting them equal on each side took forever and was a complete pain in the a$$. Now they collect dust in the garage.