sirepair

Years ago, long before O-ring chains were developed, my father (an Enduro rider) came up with a concoction that he used to treat his chains. It consisted of gear oil, STP Oil treatment, powdered graphite and paraffin wax, all mixed together in an old electric roaster. He would remove and clean his chain, then cook it at a low temp overnight. He then brushed off the excess while still warm. He rarely had a chain fail, a common issue back in the '70s. I won't be going to that extreme, but I won't be buying chain lube any more either.

Here's my custom fugly toolbox/fender with bright-azz LED turn signals.

Another "Destination"... the Moonshine Store, Moonshine, IL. No moonshine there to drink, but you can get awesome "Moonburgers" there!

I have installed a Cyclops TPMS unit and use metal "T" valves, which allow the external sensors to remain installed and still gives access to adjust pressures when needed. Cyclops TPMS: https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/Motorcycle-Tire-Pressure-Monitoring-System_p_171.html Hawkshead "T" valves: www.tpms.ca/t-valve%20tire%20valve%20for%20tires,%20tire%20pressure%20monitoring%20systems,%20tpms.html

Sometimes, no matter our intentions or efforts, things just don't work out! I'm impressed that you tried this, and that you shared. I have dabbled in upholstery myself and know how challenging it is. I lucked out and bought a slightly used Russell Day Long that is working pretty well for me. Not perfect, but so much better than stock.

Here's a few more pics:

The hinge is on the left side. Release the clasp and the fender/lid swings left. I'll add a few more pictures to clarify.

First let me say that I personally am not a fan of the "stinger" tail that is so commonly used now days. Fine for an all-out sport bike, but not for many others. I'll also say that I know many of you won't like how I've styled this. That's OK, it's not YOUR bike! But for me, this has worked out well and I thought I would share some of the process, along with the final results. For a Sport/Touring bike, the FJ09 is sorely lacking in onboard storage. Guess I'm spoiled by my ST-1100, with its fairing pockets, large under-seat cubby and factory saddle bags. My FJ (bought slightly used) came with the Yamaha bags, and I've added the Yamaha top box. I have both sizes of the top box, will swap depending upon need. Even so, I've felt that the area under the fender could be better utilized. And I needn't say anything about the fugly "Great Pumpkin" turn signals.... So, my original idea was to craft a container of some shape from aluminum sheet, with a door, to allow some tool storage under the tail. But as I was shopping around, I came across a plastic ammo box at Harbor Freight. I think it was about $6.00. I brought it home and, after pulling the stinger off, hung it under the fender with some tape and a bungie. The size and shape was about all I could ask for, so I decided to use it. A piece of 3/4 in aluminum angle, about 4 in long, is used to attach the front of the box to the two rear stinger mount holes. I had to stack a few washer on the bolts to build up for the gap in the recess of the fender. I used some 1/2 in aluminum strap and fabricated 2 hangers, R and L, that would loop over the top box frame and support the rear of the box. To make the hangers, I first cut about 16 in of the strap, then using my vise and a hammer, bent a 90 about 1 1/2 in from the end. I mounted a socket of the approximate diameter of the top box mount pipe in the vise, used a vise grip to clamp the strap to the socket, then bent the strap around the socket. I opted to use a piece of 1/2 in black HDPE for the rear fender. I wanted something styled some-what fitting for the bike, which would hold the license plate, incorporate new LED turn signal lights, and maybe add the MT logo, just for looks. I wanted the fender to be incorporated into the lid, so the design had to allow for the lid to open and latch. I covered the surface of the HDPE with painter's tape and transferred dimensions from the lid. I used router bits with my dremel tool (there is a router base that you can get for your dremel if you don't have one) and routed out an area that would lock the lid to the fender. One purpose of this step was to get an idea of how to work the material. Routing HDPE is much like routing soft wood. Then I flipped over the HDPE, laid out my desired design, and started routing out the basic shape. I cut 2 different widths of scrap wood to make guide spacers; one for the "near" side side of the router bit, one for the far side. Then used the spacers to set up my router guide (I used a level) which allowed me to route out one line, or edge, at a time. Once the edges were all routed out, I put the router bit in my drill press, set the depth, then routed out the excess material between the lines. My fender was nearly complete. I sanded some of the irregular spots, then used my sand blaster with coal slag media to blast the entire surface to give it a rough textured surface. I mounted the ammo box lid with a few counter-sink screws. I also purchased some "LED Bolts" to use to iluminate the license plate. Old computer LED wiring connectors (for power, hard drive, etc) will just thread through the 1/4-20 nuts that the LED bolts use. This will allow the removal of the license plate without having to cut any wires. The turn signals are amber"Emergency beacons" purchased from Amazon. Damn bright! They can blink various patterns, but I set them as constant on so the upgraded LED blinker relay would give them a proper blink rate. The wiring is all fed in to a wire loom, then routed up in to the same hole where the original wiring went in. Black silicone was used to fill the hole to keep water out. Connectors from Custom LED were used to allow everything to be plug and play. As a final touch, I embossed the MT logo with some red vinyl that is pretty close to the original color. I also slid heat-shrink tubing over the aluminum banding to give it a nice black color. So, there you go; custom rear fender with integrated tool box! I probably have at least 20 hours in this project (routing was tedious!) but I am pleased with the results!! All work performed was done with hand and power tools most should already have in their shop. Only additional tools I purchased for this were router bits for my dremel tool. Shopping list: Harbor Freight: Ammo box https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/6/1/61451_W3.jpg Amazon: 1/2 in Black HDPE (approx 12x12 in) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPHTPCI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Amber LED "Emergency Beacons" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V7VD4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 LED Bolt lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CXNPRNW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plexus or Pledge. Pledge wipes are available. I keep a pack in the top box. Pledge Lemon Wipes, 24 Count (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005177XBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oF0OCbD91YN96

I've been working on a solution to this, utilizing a plastic ammo box from Harbor Freight. I should have it completed this weekend and will post a build thread with pics when done.

Ok, an ex-ST owner in Dayton... have we met? Are you a member of ST-OWNERS? Have you been to OH-STOC? I bought a '15 FJ09 (kept ST1100 for 2 up riding) and LOVE IT! Such a blast to ride. You would be welcome to show up at OHSTOC 2019 on a new "goo" (or any other bike)! Ride on! Pat

This topic has been hashed so many times. One of the best arguments I've heard was from a guy that is a railroad engineer. He operates a big, noisy train with bright lights and loud horns. He has hit so many forest creatures that he has lost count. Deer, Elk, Moose, Cattle, you name it, he's hit it. If all the "stimulation" that a thundering locomotive generates doesn't keep the critters from running out in front it, what makes you think some whistle or buzz box is going to make a difference?? Until you have FLIR and phasers you are at the mercy of the stupid animals!

Only sound Harley will hear is crickets... Costs more than a Prius Prime plugin hybrid and nearly twice the price of a Zero SR! I'm sure some will sell, only to be covered up in a garage as an "investment". But, you can ride to numerous bars with a 110 mile range! Suppose the biker bar owners are planning to install charging stations? Then one could drink 'till both you and bike are fully charged....

Back from a New Year's Day ride. About 60 miles. Great start to the New Year!

I was out for about 90 mile jaunt, somewhat uncommon for late December in Southern Ohio! Heated gear hookup for jacket liner and gloves, along with heated grips and new-to-me MadStad windshield all worked well. Toes and thighs were a little cool. Felt great to lean some turns!!

A little after work ride to Gallipolis, Oh. with dinner at the Shake Shoppe. Outstanding evening for a ride! Obligatory food pic included...

I don't care for most of the peg extenders that I've seen on the market, they all look like they will put the toes of the passengers in the back of the rider's calf. I bought a used set of passenger peg mounts that I plan to modify, but have yet to do it. That said, looking at the upcoming Tracer GT, it looks like Yamaha has addressed the poor passenger ergos by lowering the peg mounts. Not sure if those will directly bolt on, but would get great to find out.

Looks great and a great price! I was going to use Russell or Lamm but believe I will get in touch with Terry. I just happen to have a spare seat handy...

Huge difference on weight?? Yes! When you receive the Shorai, you think that they must have forgotten to ship the battery! I doubt that it weighs 3 lbs. Feels like an empty shell, but spins over the bikes without issue or hesitation. I have read that these don't like the cold (below 20f) but I have not had any problems. They are also supposed to hold a charge for a long time, not needing a tender. I've let my ST1100 set for 4-5 weeks and it fires right up.

Chillicothe, Ohio

New rear tar; Metzler Roadtec 01, along with a "T" valve. Will install the Cyclops TPMS this weekend, along with matching front tar. 6700 miles on the OEM rear and it just started to show some "teeth"!

Rode to work in the mist. Ordered new tars; Metzler Roadtecs front and rear, along with Cyclops TPMS and Hawks head "T" valves!

I installed a Shorai Lithium Iron battery in my 09 back in May, no issues to report.

My lil FJ! Loving this bike!

My new-to-me 2015 has a weak battery so I just ordered a Shorai LiFe replacement. Been using one in my ST1100 for just over a year now and happy with it. Model LFX19A4-BS12 from Amazon for $156.55. These LiFe batteries are much lighter than the gel or lead acid units they replace.