Another Cracked Oil Pan

[foxtrot722]

HI, the following is not needed, the only difference is the heads are painted black, 

     Bolt, Hexagon Socket Head
Options: Old Sku: 91312-06025-00
Item #91317-06025-00    $1.90    15    $28.50

[PhotoAl]

On 4/23/2019 at 7:18 PM, foxtrot722 said:

Considering the $160 for the U-Haul trailer rent plus the parts, I agree the Higdonion would be the way to go. I was lucky the wives were not far away and their vehicle has a trailer hitch. If I was 200 miles from home and no one in the area, would have made this more difficult on several levels. Unless I see something better, probably look at getting the Higdonion. The only downside I see is I have forward mounted frame sliders mounted for the sole purpose of having somewhere to rest my legs and feet on a long ride, it really makes a difference. 

Yup that is good for you.  I was 1,100 miles from home last August when my BMW broke down - LOL would have been cheaper to have had an oil pan replaced!  For a simple wheel bearing wound up costing me $550 for new swingarm, $93 for rush shipping, $100 for tools, $355 for a rental Camry to drive around for the 6 days I was there.  Bike is fine now and for sale in Sioux Falls SD where I traded it for a 2020 Tracer GT.  Its not fun to break down long way from home, I could not find a pickup to rent, smallest box trucks were expensive so stayed in place and fixed myself.  

Reading thru this thread looks like I'm going to need to invest in a skid plate.  Like the look of the Higdonion but not sure about the cage.  Is it possible to run just the skid plate part?  I plan of maybe doing some gravel roads in the western states.  

[Wingnut]

I'm curious to know if anyone has tried using one of the kazillion aluminum brazing rods brands to repair their sump. A replacement pan dented (oh, a pun) my milk money fund a bit, but I've already ordered it so I'm sitting in the garage thinkin' "ya know ....".  

Clearly, if the damage is a shattered pan I wouldn't even try ... well, maybe I would but anyway, in my case the crack is within a dime-sized dent caused by a chucked rock, right in front. Looks like I could easily either leave it and fill it with braze or knock it back out a bit and fill it. Either way $20 worth of rod against the cost of a new pan and the wait for delivery might be an inviting concept.

I've brazed steel and copper before so I have the basic torch chops. Remove (have to do anyway), clean and prep, braze, sand flat and then repaint and brag to friends. No worries about thermal dislocation from goop fixes, solid. There're a bunch of YouTube how-to's for aluminum brazing.

(Or, I could go all Mad Max on it and layer on more aluminum plate ..... guns,...spikes , mmmmaybe not.)

AND I've received an SRC skid pan to ward off future assaults.

Just like the look of it for myself, not minimalist but doesn't look like a Mad Max vehicle prop either. Could not coax my wallet out of a locked closet for an Higdonion set-up. The SRC is thick welded aluminum, beefy struts ... I could probably lift the bike with it.

Anybody try a repair?

 

 

 

Edited November 9, 2020 by Wingnut

[BBB]

That SRC bash plate looks really nice.

On the welding/brazing, I have no experience but I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work. If I were doing it I would put a patch on the inside, with a bolt through it, so the welding from the outside has something to form around, just in case you don't get good penetration with the welds. The sump pan looks like it is made of a very brittle alloy.

[nevada72]

14 hours ago, Wingnut said:

I'm curious to know if anyone has tried using one of the kazillion aluminum brazing rods brands to repair their sump. A replacement pan dented (oh, a pun) my milk money fund a bit, but I've already ordered it so I'm sitting in the garage thinkin' "ya know ....".  

Clearly, if the damage is a shattered pan I wouldn't even try ... well, maybe I would but anyway, in my case the crack is within a dime-sized dent caused by a chucked rock, right in front. Looks like I could easily either leave it and fill it with braze or knock it back out a bit and fill it. Either way $20 worth of rod against the cost of a new pan and the wait for delivery might be an inviting concept.

I've brazed steel and copper before so I have the basic torch chops. Remove (have to do anyway), clean and prep, braze, sand flat and then repaint and brag to friends. No worries about thermal dislocation from goop fixes, solid. There're a bunch of YouTube how-to's for aluminum brazing.

(Or, I could go all Mad Max on it and layer on more aluminum plate ..... guns,...spikes , mmmmaybe not.)

AND I've received an SRC skid pan to ward off future assaults.

Just like the look of it for myself, not minimalist but doesn't look like a Mad Max vehicle prop either. Could not coax my wallet out of a locked closet for an Higdonion set-up. The SRC is thick welded aluminum, beefy struts ... I could probably lift the bike with it.

Anybody try a repair?

I like the look of that. The Higdonion not so much. 

14 hours ago, Wingnut said:

 

 

 

 

[whisperquiet]

I just came back from a short ride on a country road I’ve ridden a 1000 times.  I hit a mild dip in the road and heard the stock exhaust header briefly grind the pavement.  This has never occurred on any motorcycle I’ve owned in the last 30 years riding that road.  I’ve been warned about the lack of ground clearance👍🏍

[nhchris]

It happens a lot around here.  If you are lucky you get a dent in the cat. If you are not...

its a good reason to tune your suspension hard no matter what your weight.  Every little bit helps.

[PhotoAl]

2 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

I just came back from a short ride on a country road I’ve ridden a 1000 times.  I hit a mild dip in the road and heard the stock exhaust header briefly grind the pavement.  This has never occurred on any motorcycle I’ve owned in the last 30 years riding that road.  I’ve been warned about the lack of ground clearance👍🏍

WOW, rode my new Tracer GT back home 1,400 miles after buying it.  Set the rear preload hard but never had any problems with it scraping that I know of.  Had the bike loaded but roads were pretty good and I was being careful - new bike.  I've ridden some tough stretches on my previous bike.  Nothing off road but 10 miles on a freshly chip tarred road, construction that looked like a trail complete with very large gravel not to mention potholes and then three is the water crossing.  Small town out west, SD I think, where they were resurfacing the street and had taken up all pavement then it rained.  The car coming towards me turned in front of me and was over a foot deep before it started getting shallower.  I held to the center of the street.  Pickup in front wasn't worried - he had a his boat just in case :-)  Ordering SRC skid pan.

[whisperquiet]

That is one ugly road....I just added some fork and shock pre-load.

[Wingnut]

Or, one could slow down just a nudge for the moment.

I've not modded my forks yet (like EVERYONE else on the planet seems to have 🤕$$) but to set them hard against the one chance that a meteor cratered the road in front of me since last month seems like it would ruin the other 99.9% of the ride and justify the need for rotator cuff surgery after the weekend.

Maybe the OP got caught in the ol' "been this way before so I can let the big dogs run a bit" trap. Gawd knows I can point to a bunch bent metal and spots of hairless skin from when I may have been ten feet tall but no where near bulletproof. 

My County leaves me little "surprises" of mounds of poorly packed asphalt when they've patched potholes all the time. No problemo for Joe motorist generally but here comes Clyde Kneeslide around the corner and suddenly it's an WWS "agony-of-defeat" moment begging for a YouTube post.

On a closed track we always had "practice" time, get familiar with the condition of the track before we redlined the health insurance policy, but in the real world EVERYTHING is out to get you, ride safe, ride smart and live to brag over a beer about all the near misses you avoided.   

Everyone leaves their mark on the world, don't let yours be in an intersection.

Just sayin'.

 

[whisperquiet]

Actually, I was riding at a moderate speed on a curvy, wooded road with poor sight lines when the exhaust touched down.  I will ride the road even more “moderately” in the future on my Tracer GT👍🏍

[PhotoAl]

My SRC skidpad arrived today, haven't had time to install it yet.  Looking at where the brackets fasten to engine bolts looks like the insertion is to reuse the OEM bolts.  Is that what everyone has been doing?  Any issues?  Everything will go together with medium thread locker.  I got the powder coated black one, mounts are aluminum so may paint them with flat black engine paint.  Quality of the SRC part is fantastic, everything about it is very well done.  Will know more in a day or two about fitment but based on the quality of the parts do not expect any issues.  More than an eBay part but worth the extra to me.  Shipping was super fast as well.

EDIT: Mounts are stainless steel rather than aluminum!  Very nicely packaged, will put on tomorrow after I change the oil.  Looks like I could get to the drain plug with it on but might make a bit of a mess so going to change oil first.  Still trying to figure to how I can be retired and have so little time!

Edited November 15, 2020 by PhotoAl

[BBB]

4 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

My SRC skidpad arrived today, haven't had time to install it yet.  Looking at where the brackets fasten to engine bolts looks like the insertion is to reuse the OEM bolts.  Is that what everyone has been doing?  Any issues?  Everything will go together with medium thread locker.  I got the powder coated black one, mounts are aluminum so may paint them with flat black engine paint.  Quality of the SRC part is fantastic, everything about it is very well done.  Will know more in a day or two about fitment but based on the quality of the parts do not expect any issues.  More than an eBay part but worth the extra to me.  Shipping was super fast as well.  

Reusing OEM bolts is fine, it’s not a high torque application. I don’t even use thread locker on the engine bolts, but do on the insertion into the plate itself as that is where you get more vibration (pendulum effect). Mine is a different design (SW  Motech) but the principle is the same.

[betoney]

11 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

My SRC skidpad arrived today, haven't had time to install it yet.  Looking at where the brackets fasten to engine bolts looks like the insertion is to reuse the OEM bolts.  Is that what everyone has been doing?  Any issues?  Everything will go together with medium thread locker.  I got the powder coated black one, mounts are aluminum so may paint them with flat black engine paint.  Quality of the SRC part is fantastic, everything about it is very well done.  Will know more in a day or two about fitment but based on the quality of the parts do not expect any issues.  More than an eBay part but worth the extra to me.  Shipping was super fast as well.  

I was seriously considering the SRC skid plate as well, it looks nice on the bike and looks like it offers great protection from rocks and road debris.  It should definitely prevent any mishaps like @Clegg78 encountered.

I was ready to order it when I got a cage-like sump guard for free from @fddriver2 👍

[Clegg78]

Ohh I didnt see this thread until @betoney tagged me!  that plate looks nice!  Looks like it uses the same mount points except for the very front as the SW-Motec.    What I would really like is one that mounts to crash bars like the Givi bars and not the motor, allowing for a much stronger frame for it. 

Edited November 14, 2020 by Clegg78