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Another Cracked Oil Pan


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On 7/1/2020 at 10:53 PM, duhs10 said:

I take "disassembled" to mean the entire engine... I don't have a definitive answer for you but I suspect the actual amount of oil needed after swapping out the pan will be somewhere between the 2 values (2.70 L and 3.40 L.

Agree with duhs, but I would just start by putting in the amount in the service manual, and then check the oil filter level window. Once the oil gets between the two lines, you are good to go. If you are adding a new oil filter at the same time, remember to check again after you start the engine up, as some of the oil will remain in the filter.

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  • 2 months later...

Read this whole thread, (knew about the problem, bought a 2015 FJ anyway 😜) and I'm wondering why the FZ07 has not one issue of this.

Granted it started with the drain on the front but has all the other problems.  It has the weakest suspension, low ground clearance, pan right up front, etc.

Any ideas?

I wanted to wait till winter to mod my pan and ride all fall but now I wonder.

I cased my ST1300 hard on a medium curb once, just scratched the oil pan. Different design. It's a flat piece of aluminum instead of a large cast box. 

Edited by peteinpa
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  • 2 weeks later...

Figure I'd add onto this thread :)  I posted about it on other threads, but this seems to be on-topic content :)

Full run down on how it happened is here: 

091720-1902-DSC05525.jpg?w=640

About a week ago I left on a motorcycle trip/adventure as I talked...

 

New pan is going on tonight as soon as UPS gets here. 

20200923_193420245_iOS.jpg

20200923_193408376_iOS.jpg

Has anyone pulled the strainer to see if anything ended up in there from any of the other oil pan breaks?

 

Update: pic of my new oil pan installed.  Nice 60 min job start to finish. 

20200923_233814926_iOS.jpg

Edited by Clegg78
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I am going to be mounting a new SW-Motec sump guard on the bike, and I am going to be ordering a 4-5mm sheet of stainless steel that I am guessing (havent done my final measurements yet) will be ~80 -100mm wide and almost as long as the Motec plate.  And have it run along the side with the sump.  Secured with 8 countersunk 4mm or 5mm screws/nuts  This should make the plate itself much stronger to avoid the front from bending up and should spread out any impacts under the engine to be less pointy like I had happen. 

At first I thought of JB weld but I figure just using 6 or 8 screws would do well enough. 

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6 hours ago, roadrash83 said:

@Clegg78Could you take your the SW- Motec guard to a metal fab shop and just have him copy it out of steel. Or is it to screwed up?

The one that was hit is too messed up, but I have a new one coming on Friday.  I may take a paper template from it.

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On 7/3/2020 at 10:09 AM, DavidS said:

Agree with duhs, but I would just start by putting in the amount in the service manual, and then check the oil filter level window. Once the oil gets between the two lines, you are good to go. If you are adding a new oil filter at the same time, remember to check again after you start the engine up, as some of the oil will remain in the filter.

I put in just about 3L swapping the pan after the bike sat for 3 days after the hit + new filter.  

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15 hours ago, Clegg78 said:

I am going to be mounting a new SW-Motec sump guard on the bike, and I am going to be ordering a 4-5mm sheet of stainless steel that I am guessing (havent done my final measurements yet) will be ~80 -100mm wide and almost as long as the Motec plate.  And have it run along the side with the sump.  Secured with 8 countersunk 4mm or 5mm screws/nuts  This should make the plate itself much stronger to avoid the front from bending up and should spread out any impacts under the engine to be less pointy like I had happen. 

At first I thought of JB weld but I figure just using 6 or 8 screws would do well enough. 

A 4-5mm stainless sheet is probably overkill and may over stress the mounts in an impact as they’re presumably designed for the mass of an aluminium plate. I built a turntable for the bike recently and used 3mm thickness (1/8 inch) mild steel, to support the entire weight of the bike. That plate doesn’t bend when the bike’s mass is put through two contact points on the centre stand.

Four screws will probably do too, one in each corner.

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Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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1 hour ago, BBB said:

A 4-5mm stainless sheet is probably overkill and may over stress the mounts in an impact as they’re presumably designed for the mass of an aluminium plate.

I agree, if you beef up the bottom plate then the mounts become the weaker point and if you were to use hardened steel on the mounts then the mount screws become the weak point.

I was thinking the same thing when I installed a cage-like sump guard that I got from @fddriver2 - I had to cut an oil drain hole which took forever as it is constructed from 4mm steel.  If I take a really hard hit, the cage would be largely unaffected but the mount bolts will be the stress point.  I'm actually not sure if it is better to have it on or not. 🤷‍♀️  

s-l400.jpg

For Yamaha XSR 900 2015-2019. For Yamaha Tracer 900 2015-2019. Oil...

 

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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16 minutes ago, betoney said:

I agree, if you beef up the bottom plate then the mounts become the weaker point and if you were to use hardened steel on the mounts then the mount screws become the weak point.

I was thinking the same thing when I installed a cage-like sump guard that I got from @fddriver2 - I had to cut an oil drain hole which took forever as it is constructed from 4mm steel.  If I take a really hard hit, the cage would be largely unaffected but the mount bolts will be the stress point.  I'm actually not sure if it is better to have it on or not. 🤷‍♀️  

s-l400.jpg

For Yamaha XSR 900 2015-2019. For Yamaha Tracer 900 2015-2019. Oil...

 

Yup, I am actually OK with the mounts being the weak point, because the goal is to avoid losing oil in the middle of nowhere, not as much protecting the guard mounts :)  Anything that can spread out an impact over a larger area of the engine and avoid cracking the sump is key.   In my case, the mounts bent (all 3) as well as the sump guard plate. 

Edited by Clegg78
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Geeze, and here I had a light grind when I popped over a curb to get a view of the city from Saskatchewan Drive recently.  Guess I need to be a bit more careful; seems like the oil pan is made from eggshells.

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2015 FJ-09 / FJR touring bags / oil plug mod / Evotech rad guard / SW Motech bash plate / VStream touring windshield / Seat Concepts:  Sport Touring / Vcyclenut ABS rings (speedo correction) / Cosmo RAM mount

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  • 1 month later...

Wanting to say I appreciate the effort gathering these part numbers. Went to the garage this a.m. for something and noticed a small oil puddle under the bike. Sump was dry all around the upper edges, drain plug, and oil switch, but I found a small dent in the front side of the pan, likely a gift from the random rock on the road. Cleaned it an warmed up the bike (still plenty of oil). Sure enough, the dent started to weep.

New parts ordered and I will researching a pan shield/skid plate.

Coulda been worse.

 

On 4/23/2019 at 2:23 PM, foxtrot722 said:

This is my first time experiencing this problem, but many others have. 

My 2015 with the bottom drain plug finely caught up with me. was getting fuel about 200 mile from home, in the pouring rain, misjudged a little step down, bottom of bike just barley touched, just enough to feel, pulled back under fuel pump area and inspect. After about 2 minutes, saw that one little drop of oil. Rented an U-Haul 5X9 trailer and trailered the bike 200 miles to home. So the good part is, caught it as soon as it happened. 

Call the dealer where I purchased the bike, spoke with service Manager and explained the bottom drain design error and Yamaha attempted to correct the problem with a redesigned drain that was located on the side. 

Taking that into consideration,  would he provide a discount on the parts needed to make the repairs. 

After getting pricing, looks like to me the pricing they offered was retail. based that on a Yamaha Parts web site that was offering parts at a 40 % discount. When I added up the web parts cost and added about 40% to it, it was near what the dealer quoted me. 

Needless to say, I was a little miffed that the dealer didn't appear to offer any discount. The next time I am close by, I'll stop in and ask to speak to the Dealer Manager, only fair to let him know they have lost a customer and I won't rely on them for new bike sales, parts, or service. 

I was aware of the Mazda mod, but felt consider I ride solo and am cautious about clearance, I could avoid hitting something. Which was not the case. Remember, the bump was so light, I barely felt it. 

For those of you that might want to switch to a side drain pan, below is a part list I ordered. The online part number page showed the new part # for the pan and also a new part # for the 15 screws to mount. I was not able to tell if the screws for the new pan was longer or shorter, so I ordered them also. 

This leads to a question, was looking a the two skid pans Twisted Throttle offers, just don't really like the look, but not sure if there are any better choices. Anyone have any suggestions?

     . .Gasket
Item #214-11198-01-00    $1.60    3    $4.80

     Gasket, Exhaust Pipe
Item #4FM-14613-00-00    $5.15    3    $15.45

     Element Assy, Oil Cleaner
Options: Old Sku: 5GH-13440-50-00
Item #5GH-13440-60-00    $8.08    1    $8.08

     . .O-Ring
Item #5VY-8A8E0-00-00    $4.42    2    $8.84

     . Plug, Straight Screw
Item #90340-14132-00    $5.88    1    $5.88

     Bolt, Hexagon Socket Head
Options: Old Sku: 91312-06025-00
Item #91317-06025-00    $1.90    15    $28.50

     Strainer Cover Assy
Options: Old Sku: 1RC-13400-00-00
Item #B56-13400-10-00    $131.45    1    $131.45

     Gasket, Strainer Cover
Options: Old Sku: 1RC-13414-00-00
Item #BD5-13414-00-00    $11.74    1    $11.74
 
 
 
Subtotal:     $214.74
Shipping:     $23.49
Salestax:     $0.00
Order Total:     $238.23

 

     
 

 

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