piotrek

re-flash ECU (slip-on installed) replace handlebar (something with better sweep) replace heated grips (if can't salvage Oxfords) replace heated gear controls (failed in a downpour) replace fork oil and grease fork seals inspect and grease head bearing grease swing arm and relay arm bearings replace tires replace wheel bearing seals and spacers replace brake caliper pins (stainless) synchronize throttle bodies replace rear brake pads (EBC HH) replace brake lines (...bonus track) Will also explore fabricating an aluminum perch over the pillion seat for RotopaX container(s), and other uses. Something that bolts to the pillion grab handle mount points. Dragging my feet on this one for two winters now.

Is that going to happen or already done? About to tear into the bike this weekend and the ECU is heading to Vcyclenut for a re-flash to correct for the Scorpion slip-on and the block-off plates.

Used the Bolt arm a couple years back. I found that the pull action was more stepped rather than progressive (maybe because of the longer R1 cable required the arm be offset by a tooth clockwise on the splined shaft). Watch the angle at which the cable moves in the steel exit tube... should come out clean and not rub against the tube. Looks alright in your photo though.

Good idea indeed... credit goes to peeps from an old thread on here. 🙂

Excellent. Saw in another thread that you also tried the Heat Demons (I could be wrong)... you no like? Could measure, but gonna ask anyway 😀... which Hot Grips Part# did you buy?

Mmm... re-valve kit... hardcore... have fun 😎

Motorcycling is indeed great therapy. Welcome to the forum, and enjoy your new bike. Upgrades and mods galore on here... comfort/ergonomics for touring, commuting, off-road, sport riding... and of course some purely cosmetic projects. Search away and you will probably find it here. PayPal and all major credit cards accepted. 😀

Good call. I've gone the same route... and it now just works. As @betoney noted, you can absolutely fine tune the setup with oil viscosity and level combinations.. if you need. I also got my springs at Stoltec... great to deal with.

This ^^. No issues starting, as long as you allow the time to prime before ignition... and a safer way to shut off the bike. Good instinct to develop... and may save a few seconds in an emergency.

Man... not gonna ask why, 'cause you must have your reasons... but how? Anything is doable with the right prep and attitude I suppose, but at -20C... yikes. Windchill aside... road conditions (and woody rubber) have to suck. Kudos to you. We don't experience Calgary winters in the GTA, but the temps do dive to -20C for about a week or so in February (-10C is pretty routine). Conditions just feel wrong for motorcycle riding. Good time to wrench and plan rides. 😋 Don't want to hijack the thread... maybe a new one is in order to talk cold weather riding.

I am looking to replace the seals and spacers only (little sloppy)... think the bearings have a log way to go (bike is at 52K kms).

I ruined my axle threads (and the OE nut backing out over them) last year, literally a week before a trip. Can't help but think about this each time I have to adjust the chain or otherwise service the wheel. Hey @texscottyd, didn't you pickup one of these recently?... any feedback? Thanks!

I bought a bracket for my FJ from AdventureTech... and according to their website they have one coming for the GT. Works very well, and of course you'll have many lamp options to choose from various sources. Poke the vendor and ask. Yamaha Auxiliary Lighting - AdventureTech, LLC. We have light bars, lights, and wiring harnesses with surface mount...

Three years on the bike. I did have to do some grinding to make it clear the centre stand (extent shown in photo). I embedded the OE foot in silicone to help keep vibrations in check, and applied blue thread locker to all bolts. Have not had to adjust or tighten anything... pretty solid.

Welcome to the forum... and congrats on the Tracer. Quite a departure from the Wing.

Recall wording: "In affected motorcycles, the lower handlebar holder may have been painted improperly during manufacturing. Additionally, the stud bolt threads of the lower handlebar holder may not have had adequate thread-locking agent applied. As a result, if a strong external impact is applied to the handlebar, the paint on the bottom of the lower handlebar holder may be damaged. Over time, the paint can wear off, creating clearance that allows the stud bolt to loosen due to engine vibration. If the stud loosens or falls off, the handlebar holder may come loose from the handle crown, causing loss of control that could result in a crash with injury or death." The OE holder is an assembly (2015 anyway). I was able to unscrew the stud bolt from the holder rather easily... it did not have thread locker on the threads. I removed the paint from the holder mating surface, applied bluegoop to the stud bolt threads (holder side only) and secured the assembly to the steering head with the OE self locking nuts to the specified torque. Has been solid since. Check it once at beginning of each season. I will say that I did the work as a preventative measure... my VIN was on the hit list for the recall, but the holders were not loose.

See if the studs turn with the nuts. If so, I would be removing the holders to ensure that the studs are srewed all the way, with bluegoop on the threads. I believe the recall had to do with the studs coming loose out of the holders.

@Duke... did you mean yellow-red rather than yellow-blue?... i.e. Heat Demon elements wired in parallel, connected between yellow-red and black?

This is great news. Can you clarify (link) which Heat Demon product you used? Cheers.

Is this bike new to you? What is on the odometer? When did it become, or was it always twitchy? Why do you think the chain may improve things... just curious. It may be that the chain needs replacing, but you also mention that the throttle is twitchy. The throttle can be smoothed out a bit by adjusting the Accelerator Position Sensor. Very simple and free, if you're comfortable doing a little disassembly. The ECU flash will take it to the next level and smooth things out for you, but you will need to remove the tank, extract the ECU and send it out to a tuner. Not hard to do, but could be intimidating if you're not into this kind of thing. If the bike is generally running rougher... this could point to several things. Have you done any maintenance on it? Throttle body sync or spark plugs could be out of spec etc. All these would require removing the tank, air box etc... so either you do it if you're comfortable, or take to a trusted shop. Would need a manometer to sync throttle bodies. Maybe it's just lousy fuel. Your brother's 2014... is that a FZ-09?

Haven't looked in the manual yet, but any pointers on bleeding/filling process? ABS pump remained full through this?

Test rode the FZ-07 and thought it was fun... then rode the FZ-09... and then rode it again, and again 😍. The FJ was the more sensible version of the FZ. Congrats on your new CP3.

...Impala? 😀

Indeed... does what it is supposed to do. I bought my unit shortly before the 2017 bikes came on the market, and recall Tony mentioning that he was experiencing supply issues with the original control unit and wasn't sure he was going to develop for the new bikes (ECU changes). Caused a bit of panic on the forum I remember... expensive as it was, this was really the only CC option for the FJ. My defenses broke down pretty quickly, and I installed the unit on the bike that winter. Solid, quality kit.