betoney

So, are you talking about LED indicators on the front or rear? The front indicators already have 3 leads and the rear doesn't have running lights.

Those brake switches are prone to getting clogged up with oils and road debris and not functioning correctly. I switched to a hydraulic switch with no exposed moving parts to fail. - $20 Spiegler Brake Light Switch Out of all the hydraulic brake light switches on the market, there's only one...

Glad to hear you are OK, the last thing you need is more tragedy in these crazy times.

I just didn't want to put out bogus info. If you look up above the starter motor, on the inside of the frame, you should see the hard lines. Probably easier from the top when the tank is off.

I love riding in that area, Apiary, Vernonia, Mist, Jewell, Clatscanie. - Jealous! My favorite is North from Tillamook through Garibaldi on Miami-Foley Rd and Necanicum Highway.👍

*I stand corrected*. OK, so it was the middle section of those lines that is hard line. I had to pull them down from behind the frame, right above the starter motor to cut them in half. I had to pull each half out from the front and rear respectively.

That looks like a good one, the one I have looks similar. @Matt 2703 - there are a few versions sold that are just a flat sheet of metal that mount with zip ties, VERY cheezy design in my opinion, make sure it is a wrap around design with screw holes for mounting like the one linked above.

At least in my case I use the Active Tune

OK, so on the NA version of the bike those rubber lines are different. The lines from the ABS pump to the front mount block are a thin silver hard line like you see on a car. So there may be other differences between the NA and OZ versions as well.

They would have to give it at least a 6 gallon fuel tank due to the already poor fuel economy, let alone the right wrist temptations! 😎👍 They would also need to fix the 'Transformers' headlights/ front end🤮. I really like what Yamaha did with the European Tracer 700, If Yamaha released a larger, full-spec version w/dual direction QS, IMU and electronic suspension, I would be all over it.

Unless you are really abusive or heavy on your clutch the plates should last a LONG time. One of the steps with the slipper clutch install is measuring the thickness of the assembled clutch pack, this will let you know if the plates are within spec. There are optional thickness plates available to modify the stack thickness, but if for some reason the stack thickness is on the thin side then it might be the perfect time to replace the friction plates.

@dazzler24 - Go out and look at your bikes brake lines, front or rear. Trace them and you will see that they go to a mounting block where the flex line connects to a hard line and then to the ABS pump. Braided line manufacturers try to make things more efficient by eliminating the mounting blocks (not sure of the correct term) where a flex line connects to a hard line and running only a single line from point A to point B, eliminating junction points.

The price on all of them just raised $500, at lunch time they were all listed for $6499.

No need to even get that complicated, just scroll down when the page loads. They have 8 of them listed at that price.

I spy oem valve stems.😲 Get some right angle stems, they will make your life a lot easier, especially on the front.

Wow, $6500 is a great deal for the Tracer! 👍

Yes, exactly like the GT ...except different.😎 Slightly larger than the GT (maybe 550-575lbs, the size of the Versys 1000), more wind coverage (electronic wind screen), larger engine (+200cc with lower highway rpm), with all of the features and accessories of the FJR but in a modern package. I really like the current FJR but am put off by the weight and high CG, it needs a redesign.

@jdavis - What is the XR 'Tour'? Is that a specific trim package unique to EU and OZ?

That's exactly what @BBB linked above. It comes with everything you need in one package for a couple of bucks.

I'm not the type to go through bikes or vehicles every few years, my previous bike was 10 years old, my dirt bike is 14 years old and my daily driver truck is going on 20. I'm hoping that maybe in a few years Yamaha will revitalize the FJR with a lighter, sportier chassis with lower CG and lighter steering.

Funny you should say that, I was just having a discussion with my buddy in Oregon who also owns an FJ, (we both own 2015 models and are both approaching 50k on the odometer). We both have our bikes upgraded to suit our personal needs and cant think of anything else to modify. We were discussing other bikes available, Japanese and European and neither of us could come up with a single bike that we would currently trade-up to. As much as we both like longer road trips we don't want a bigger or more luxurious touring bike, the smaller, agile size of the FJ/Tracer is as perfect for canyon twisties as it is for a 10-day road trip. My plan is to give it another 5 years and see what is available in 2025.

I too wish I had some project or upgrade left to do to my bike. I have been looking for something, ANYTHING - but the best I could come up with is order some 2" blindspot mirrors and a nano-glass screen protector. - SAD.😢

Same as @piotrek said, I didn't use any special procedure. I opened the bleeders and pumped front and rear brake to get as much fluid out as possible before working on the lines. When you remove any of the banjo bolts, wrap the end of the line in paper towel or a rag and wrap with tape or use a rubber band to help avoid getting fluid everywhere.

A local suspension shop did a baseline setup on mine and it is very similar to yours, minimal fork preload for sag and forks raised 5mm in clamps but with an additional 5mm ride height on rear shock.

@HGP61 - Yes, 10mm. I am not familiar with the Fehling crash bars, is there a reason that the existing long bolt cant be reused?