eeetea Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 I just picked this up at NAPA. It is a replacement part for a Mazda drain plug. Not exactly the same but suppose to work. It is a 10MM x 1.5 pitch with a 45 Tork. Will check it out next time I change oil. It has a rubber "O" Ring gasket, therefore the torque may only be required to be 10-12 lbs. (?) Will have to check that out. If that is the case and it works, that would put an end to over torqueing the drain plugs and stripping the threads. $3.62. Niice !! I'd like to know the part number too !! Hopefully the o'ring can easily be found at Napa too And for the torque... same as oem... good and tight and I'll have peace of mind! Is the Drain plug M10?? I would have thought M14 (looking at pictures). I don't particularly want to pull mine out until I'm ready to do an oil change and swap plugs Can anyone advise the actual size (depth too)? Thankee Kindly. Honda SS50, Kawasaki Z200, Honda 400/4, Yamaha TDM900, Yamaha XT660Z Tenere, KTM 990 Adventure, BMW R1200GS, Mr Stevens, and my favourite of all: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer...a bit like FJ-09 only properly named :¬P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eeetea Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Excellent info. thanks for sharing. For those in the UK. Better than, and cheaper than, go to Accu.co.uk A4 (316) Marine grade Stainless for £1.35 (Mazda is £9.28!!) Linky Dinky Well it seems I have to order 50. They do have black A4 Stainless plugs in M14 size...might consider buying 50 and selling them on. Anyone interested? Honda SS50, Kawasaki Z200, Honda 400/4, Yamaha TDM900, Yamaha XT660Z Tenere, KTM 990 Adventure, BMW R1200GS, Mr Stevens, and my favourite of all: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer...a bit like FJ-09 only properly named :¬P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingofthenorth Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 I did my first oil change and replaced the bolt with the mazda drain plug...but...I did not put back a washer since there was none with the oem drain plug (had no issue riding like that last season). Do you guys think I will need to add one or should I just wait for the next oil change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Its fine for now, but definitely put one in on your next oil change. There are 2 reasons to have one. 1. Helps the drain plug seal 2. The hardened steel bolt will wear on the softer aluminum casting at the mating surface creating leaks down the line. The soft copper washer will take this wear and is much easier to replace than the oil sump. '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingofthenorth Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Ok good! I will keep an eye on it to make sure it’s not leaking. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted April 4, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted April 4, 2018 I don’t remember the year range but the R1 drain plug works as well. I think it was about $2-$3. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxn Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Just finished my beginning of the season oil change (temps in the 70s in central Ohio, woo hoo!). I went with the Mazda drain plug after the first oil change (2015) and just want to report that after three seasons and three oil changes the head of the Mazda bolt was corroded and stripped out so bad I wound up having to carefully remove it with a pair of pliers after getting the oil pan good and warm. And I've NEVER abused it. I assume the metal's too soft when tightened. So I replaced it with the OEM bolt and will most likely NOT replace it again. It honestly doesn't hang down any lower than my Giannelli full exhaust, so shouldn't be an issue. And it will be MUCH easier to remove for future oil changes. Just wanted to share my experience as a warning to others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxn Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Yeah piotrek. Agreed. An OEM part should be bulltetproof. And this part was sold as an OEM Mazda part. Doesn't appear so now. Pic attached. Gonna stick with Yamaha OEM now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremlab Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 What if you change the part every 2 years? It is not that expensive after all. FJ-09 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted June 2, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted June 2, 2018 I don’t remember the year range but the R1 drain plug works as well. I think it was about $2-$3. Yep, I just picked one up today at my local dealer... Oil drain plug from a 2016 Yamaha R1, Yamaha PN 90340-14019-00. Surprisingly cheap st $2.69 full dealer retail. Quick & easy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comsym Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 I've a 2015 that I picked up (used) a few months ago and just did my first oil change on. It seemed the ideal time to do the mod to the pan. I used a magnetic, hex head plug with a Dorman washer, sold for the R1, but it fit fine. Torqued to 20 lbft with a little thread sealant. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F311557082474 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnakay Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 I've never used a torque wrench on any of my bikes these 40 years. never had any problems. granted the the only part I've never worked on is engine internals. only on a T500 two stroke. none have ever come loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 I've never used a torque wrench on any of my bikes these 40 years. never had any problems. granted the the only part I've never worked on is engine internals. only on a T500 two stroke. none have ever come loose. I don't break out the torque wrench until I'm inside the motor or installing a motor. Swing arm too I suppose. Otherwise I prefer the German torque spec: "Guttentite" 3 '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammer Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 Changing my oil last year on my '15, somehow the OEM pan got stripped. I say "somehow" because I think it happened on removal. I had to muscle the bolt off. I mean really give it some "umph!" (Last oil change was done by the dealer) When installing the new plug, it was turning, met some resistance, and then whoops, it just kept turning. No torque wrench, no strongarming, just a normal turning. After a lot of swearing, I bit the bullet and just ordered a new pan with the plug on the front (where it should of been in the first place). A few beers and a enjoyable afternoon, new pan was in with new plug and no issues. Not the cheapest route at all, but now I don't worry about the low spot. 1 Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhchris Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 On 8/24/2018 at 8:58 AM, comsym said: I've a 2015 that I picked up (used) a few months ago and just did my first oil change on. It seemed the ideal time to do the mod to the pan. I used a magnetic, hex head plug with a Dorman washer, sold for the R1, but it fit fine. Torqued to 20 lbft with a little thread sealant. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F311557082474 That sealing washer looks a bit trick. Where do you get another one at next oil replacement? Ebay? cb 1 1968 Triumph Bonneville 650 1971 Norton Commando Roadster 2002 Harley 1200 Sportster 2003 Honda ST 1300 2016 FJ 09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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