Supporting Member betoney Posted August 4, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted August 4, 2018 I dropped my bike off at the dealer yesterday for a valve check, new spark plugs and a throttle body sync. I just picked it up after work and they reported what we have heard here before, the exhaust valves were tight. The bike was a leftover '15 that Ive had for a year and a half and has 23,300 miles, - first valve check, TB Sync or plug change. They said that the right exhaust valve on each cylinder was fairly tight, (excuse my lack of technical terms) the clearance should be 10-12 thousandths and the clearance was only 5 thousandths. Does that make sense or did I get the jargon wrong? He said he wasn't overly concerned but suggested in the future to do the valve adjustment every 20,000 miles from now on. The spark plugs looked good, insulator was a nice light mocha color, the only wear he noticed was on the end ground electrode, the edges weren't sharp, they were starting to get slightly rounded. Again, not concerned, but suggested replacement every 20,000 miles with the next valve check. As for the TB Sync, he said it was so close it was splitting hairs whether it was worth adjusting. He said if I had brought the bike in just for a TB Sync it would have been a complete waste of time and money. So, the tight exhaust valves seem to be a common occurrence, I wont dictate any maintenance intervals but might suggest a valve check sooner than the manual states. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DavidS Posted August 4, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted August 4, 2018 Maybe we should do a poll and see how many folks with 20K+ miles had tight valves, and how many reached that 20K+ and theirs were ok? Seems like we are getting a variety of situations, so quantifying each might be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted August 4, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted August 4, 2018 Had mine checked at 24,000 miles. All were fine. Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 Yikes, that is tight betoney. Does anyone know what our valves are made out of? Titanium, stainless steel, or other? '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 doing mine now intakes all within spec exhaust between .006 and .008 so working on finding new shims now 23,xxx miles on my 15 9er Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnha1962 Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 doing mine now intakes all within spec exhaust between .006 and .008 so working on finding new shims now 23,xxx miles on my 15 9er so Ryan, what shims did you find? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 ended up buying individual shims from the dealer, around $2.00 each Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnha1962 Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 ended up buying individual shims from the dealer, around $2.00 each Cool. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vijay Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Just took my leftover 2015 I purchased about 11 months ago with just under 21,000 miles. I told the Service Manager at the Dealer ... who I trust and has always been honest with me ... that I had been reading a lot about the FJ09 and it's sister FZ09 and that the forums seem to indicate that the valves often run tight well before the factory 26,000 mile suggested interval. The Service Manager said he didn't follow the various Forums at all but that he was sure it was a waste of money. I finally told him "look it may be a waste of money but I want to go ahead have it done anyhow and I'm the one paying for it". Since I am only 5,000 miles out ... change the spark plugs and do a throttle body sync. He tried to talk me out of it again but finally said ..."it's your money" and took it in Monday. 3 exhaust valves we're all tight between (I think either)".002 and .004 or .02 and .04) and 2 intake valves were just barely tight. Their Yamaha Mechanic who doesn't work on any other of their brands (Honda and Kawi), refuses to do an "in spec/out spec" check. So all valves were set in spec and at same tolerances. I asked if it was enough to have caused damage and he said no and not to worry. Spark plugs were mildy dirty but not bad and he said the TB definitely needed syncing as one TB was pretty far out of sync. Got it back and it sure is smoother. Interesting thing is that as I was leaving the Service Manager came out to apologize to me (I"ve been going to them for my Yamaha's and Honda's for about 8 years). He said he talked to the Yamaha technician/mechanic and his comment was that CP3 engine, while a great engine, does have a tendency for the valves to get out of spec if you rev it high before changing gears. Which I have a tendency to do since so many of the people I ride with are ex racers etc. So FWIW, if you ride aggressively or have "high shift points", it is probably worth having them checked early. I'm glad I did. and an unsolicited apology/acknowledgement from the Service Writer was icing on the cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted August 23, 2018 Author Supporting Member Share Posted August 23, 2018 his comment was that CP3 engine, while a great engine, does have a tendency for the valves to get out of spec if you rev it high before changing gears. Which I have a tendency to do since so many of the people I ride with are ex racers etc. So FWIW, if you ride aggressively or have "high shift points", it is probably worth having them checked early. I'm glad I did. and an unsolicited apology/acknowledgement from the Service Writer was icing on the cake. Similar findings on my recent valve check @23K and I too, ride aggressively at times, I usually hit triple digits once per ride and shift between 7-9k while in hooligan mode. My mechanic recommended valve check and plug change every 20k from now on. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 I think I will follow the suggestions here and get them done at 20k miles. Dumb question regarding valves... Let's say you take the bike in at 20k miles. All (or some, doesn't really matter) valves are tighter than spec but are still within limits so no adjustments are made. Still good for another 20k miles? Or do you (or insist that the tech) put everything back to spec? '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 I think I will follow the suggestions here and get them done at 20k miles. Dumb question regarding valves... Let's say you take the bike in at 20k miles. All (or some, doesn't really matter) valves are tighter than spec but are still within limits so no adjustments are made. Still good for another 20k miles? Or do you (or insist that the tech) put everything back to spec? Not a dumb question at all. But s/he may not be able to do as you ask. - the difficulty here is that if the lash still falls in the acceptable range, changing a shim will put it 1-3 thousandths out of spec, either looser or tighter. IME only the factory ships an engine with shims that can precisely dial in the lash when new, for example one engine might come with shims marked 182, 181, and 201. (Meaning 1.82mm, 1.81mm and 2.01mm) You can’t buy any of those shim sizes from the Yamaha parts catalog and I have not seen them sold in the aftermarket in those precise sizes either. Unless the tech has a stash of used shims that you don’t mind having installed in your engine, you will get stuck with 1.80, 1.85, 1.90, 1.95, 2.00 mm. because that’s what is available. That’s one reason there’s a range in the allowable valve clearance numbers. - if they were in the middle of spec, I’d run it but maybe shorten the next interval if you’re concerned they will tighten up. It’s a tough call. You know the way your bike runs better than anyone. If it changes, check it sooner. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinnie Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 My valves read just as tight at 21,000 miles. At 37000 miles, my head was shot; I have a whole thread dedicated to that debacle. I still believe there's a bigger issue than we realize. I went to corporate Yamaha and met with someone about my bike. They definitely know there are some major issues. One of these days I am going to write a blog post with a full write up on that experience... Riding my new Suzuki V Strom to Cypress, CA to formally complain to Yamaha in person lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigorangecntry07 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Is this a 2015-16 problem or all inclusive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted August 23, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted August 23, 2018 ALL MY VALVES WERE VERY TIGHT AT 24,000 MILES REINSTALLING CAMS INDEXED (TIMED) CORRECTLY IS CHALLENGING TO SAY THE LEAST. I HAVE TO GO BACK IN AND CHECK THE CAM TIMING AND BE SURE THE CAM CHAIN IS TIGHT ON THE EXHAUST SIDE. MY APE CCT WILL TAKE CARE OF THE INTAKE SIDE (I DID HAVE THE CCT REPLACED PER THE TSB BUT BASED ON WHAT I'VE READ DO NOT TRUST EVEN THE LATEST OEM CCT). I HAVE A THROTTLE CHOP IDLE DROP ISSUE I'VE POSTED ABOUT ELSEWHERE I BELIEVE IS RELATED TO BEING OFF ONE CAM CHAIN SPROCKET TOOTH ON ONE OR BOTH OF THE CAMS DUE THE DIFFICULTY OF REINSTALLING THE CAMS... ANYONE KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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