betoney

I have ridden the last 2 generations of Tuono and they are indeed amazing machines. WAY more power than you could realistically need and absolutely effortless to ride - and ride FAST. If the smaller 660 is anything like the bigger models then that little bike will be INSANE.

Just an update to keep you salivating... The Italian styling, fit and finish is absolutely impeccable. 😲

At least ask your local dealer to see if it is an option. There might be some differences in Canada?

I am fortunate to have a GREAT local dealer, I have been a customer for over 15 years. Concerning the Y.E.S. warranty, were you aware that you can sell it back if you don't want it? When I got mine, that was one point they emphasized a few times that if I decided I didn't want the remainder of the warranty then I could cancel anytime and get a pro-rated refund for the remainder of the term that I didn't use.

So, when the caliper is removed from the carrier the wheel spins freely... If you loosen the axle nut does the wheel and brake carrier slide forward and back smoothly in the swingarm? The carrier has a slot or channel that mates with a tab on the swingarm which should allow the wheel to travel - smoothly - about 2" fore and aft . The only thing I am coming up with is when the caliper is on the carrier it is causing binding like something is possibly mis-aligned with the carrier. Other than that, I am out of ideas to help. sorry.

This is the confusing part, the wheel is hard to turn yet you have zero brake pedal feel. With the bike up on the center stand can you move the wheel by hand? If you remove the caliper from the brake carrier does the wheel suddenly free up or is it still hard to rotate?

When you crack open the bleed port and pump the pedal, you are getting a constant flow of fluid with no air bubbles? - I'm trying to determine a positive flow from the reservoir through the MC to the caliper. With the caliper off the bike, if you pump the pedal, does the piston extend? Remove the brake pads and put a flat piece of wood or a flat bar in the caliper, if you pump the brake does the piston extend enough to hold the piece of wood or flat bar tight - simulating the rotor. Using the flat bar can you easily push/pull the piston back into the caliper? Assuming that fluid is flowing through the system to the bleed port and the piston is moving freely in and out of the caliper, then I too am stumped.

I'm sure there will always be service managers who will fight tooth and nail to avoid submitting a warranty claim and that's unfortunate, my experience has been the exact opposite. I have the 5 year Y.E.S. warranty and my bike has had 4 warranty repairs, all at the service managers insistence. Front brake calipers, 12v accessory power socket, clutch basket and ABS pump. They are fully aware that my bike is far from stock and that I have done most of the work myself, including having the ECU flashed. Anytime a part has failed it has always been them suggesting "Why don't I write up a warranty claim and get it replaced for you".

@duhg - LOTS of squiggly lines on the map. Looks good to me! 😎👍

Hopefully it a simple fix, if the reservoir is full and your pedal is dead, then you have a system full of air, how that happened is anybodys guess, luckily bleeding the system just takes a minute - watch your fluid level while you bleed it!!

Absolutely 100% proper fit now.👍

I cant understand how bumping the pedal or even pumping it several times deliberately would result in zero pedal feel. How is the fluid level in the reservoir? Like I said, a quick bleed to check for air bubbles just takes a minute. Are you familiar with the procedure?

To deny warranty coverage they would have to prove that the oil specifically contributed to the failure. If the oil meets or exceeds the JASO-MA and API SG standard then it is rated for motorcycle use.

Not true, the only way that could happen is if you pumped the brake pedal enough to eject the piston and the system filled with air. When you pump the brakes, the fluid from the reservoir fills the caliper, when you push the piston back into the caliper the fluid returns to the reservoir, its a closed system. EDIT **additionally** how does the pedal feel? is it firm or spongey? A quick bleed (not a flush) literally takes a minute to check for air bubbles and wont hurt to verify.

I'm not sure what this parts official name is but it (2 pc) fits through rubber grommets to hold on the tail light. With these in place, I couldn't get the light assembly tight enough to fit securely. Once removed, the light housing sits directly on the rubber grommet and tightens down very securely.

I have considered the same, a naked bike in the 600-700cc range would be fun.

Look at the pads in the caliper, are both pads in the slot on the front of the brake carrier? This only takes 2-3 minutes and can be done without removing the wheel. Remove the 2 bolts holding the rear caliper and wiggle the caliper off of the carrier, the pads should be hanging on by the rear with a slide pin. Hold the pads up into the caliper and re-seat the pads onto the notches on the carrier - there is only one way to do it and they are either in or they aren't. Install the 2 mount bolts and pump the rear brake and try again. While the caliper is off of the carrier you could pump the brake pedal to make sure the piston is moving, you will have to pry the pads apart to get them to fit over the rotor.

I live within an hour of 2 tracks in Washington, the 3rd is less than 2 hours away and the 4th is less than 4 hours away. I have thought about getting a dedicated track bike but doing that more than just once in awhile can get quite expensive. Someday...

@limpy88 - What could you have possibly run over that would put a huge gash through the tire carcass like that? Glad to hear you were able to get stopped safely. On a positive note, virtually any brand name tire you install will be an improvement in traction and handling compared to the stock tires.

Little fella is admiring the well used tire, thinking - "Damn dude, you took it all the way to the side wall - GOOD JOB!"😎

The seat looks great, I really admire what Terry can accomplish for what he charges. If I didn't already have a custom seat built I would definitely be contacting Terry. I am almost the exact same size and had the same results with my custom built seat, it fits perfect in the lower position and I am on the balls of my feet at a stop light if I were to ever put both feet down at the same time. Mine is at least a full inch thicker than stock but I don't consider that a negative as it also increases the seat to foot peg distance making it a little easier on my knees.

Again, I think those numbers are very optimistic. Sure, dyno numbers will vary a small percentage based on calibration, weather, elevation, air density etc, but not to the point of getting almost 20hp higher than anyone else has ever achieved. Even in 2wheeldynoworks own video post they list the results - "2019 Tracer 900 GT with a full Titanium Akrapovic Exhaust System and our 2WDW Custom ECU Flash spittin' fire on the dyno! 117hp/65tq at the wheel" Here is a typical result for a stock FZ or FJ. 104-105hp Here is a typical result for a tuned FZ/FJ with full Akropovic system 114hp

I don't know why your post is so hard to read, how are you entering text? This isn't my bike, but I have mine wired to work in conjunction with the turn signals just like this video.

Just saying I have watched a lot of Nels tuning videos, as well as other tuners dyno videos, and I have never seen a FJ/FZ with a full exhaust and race software even exceed 120hp.

Exactly. Stock is 105hp and with an Akrapovich full system, Nels was able to get it tuned to 117hp on his dyno in the video above.