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What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?


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12 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I did the same, Spiegler lines 14 R1 mc but also in conjunction added R1 320 mm rotors with the necessary spacers and HH+ front pads (I like the lower friction ONE BY rear pads). The bigger rotors and HH pads are quite a bit more feel and urgency when you really need to drop anchors in a hurry. 

I was inspired by your posts on this, thank you! :)

EBC HH pads and galfer rotors are waiting to be installed, will do them when I replace the front tire. Slipper clutch kit is in the mail too. Eventually might turn it into a part time track bike, we'll see.

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If it's going to be a track bike, may I suggest a Quick Shifter kit? (Unless it already has one - I keep losing track of which models do and don't come with one!)

TTR Ignition Systems - Teaching Old Bikes New Tricks
Shift Sensors - Quick Shift Controllers
Plug 'n' Play Quick Shifter Kits for FJ-09 US$150 + $15 shipping - In Stock
North American Distributor for Shifting ContRoll     Email
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Realized that my RGB LED lights where - by design - wired to unswitched power.  This because I wanted to be able to leave them on when I park it for a late night coffee or what have you, be able to flash them or screw with them from a distance. 

However.  It then occurred to me: What happens if I have them on, and my remote stops working?   What happens if I want to turn them on, or off when I'm riding?  I initially planned on wiring the keyfob directly into the bike and building a control panel, but I decided against that for the same reason as the unswitched power - I want to mess with it at a distance.  But if the keyfob stops working, or I'm riding and don't want to mess with it, I need a way to toggle power to the whole system, simply. 

Sooooo...

20200713_124650.thumb.jpg.81a09295a325384a6f898522dfe28aca.jpg

Naked again.  Had to install a button, and wanted to move the lights on my crashbars into the side panels to light those rear-facing vents instead.  Just couldn't get the lights on the crashbars to not look... Janky.  I'd rather invisible when off, and more "understated" (given what they are) in use.  So, stripped her down, moved lights around, and installed a waterproof button to toggle power.

20200713_204535.thumb.jpg.bcad7d619554379988a94eaa53779096.jpg

But then all this showed me what a total disaster the wiring was around my battery.  There's only so much you can do when you've got 4 separate extra pairs of leads tying onto the battery, each with their own inline fuse.  It's just a mess.  

I've always got either my tail bag, or my hardcases with me, though; I don't really need that underseat space and in fact, with the tail bag on, it's a pain in the butt to get access to anyways.  So, in went a six slot Amazon fuse block, with one fused link attached to the battery, and everything else tied into it.  

20200713_205157.thumb.jpg.83153beb6cc89832e7f87cf7d05993a4.jpg

A quality day spent tinkering, and I'm very happy with the results.  A button on the handlebars to toggle the lights, and while I still need to tidy up that bit of a rat's nest on the side there, overall the wiring is way, way simpler than it has been for ages.  

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Oh, my god.

@betoney had it right.  

20200714_074327.thumb.jpg.b225c73aa60bbd9db726010f54415c5e.jpg

 

That 47 tooth rear sprocket is wild.  And it was exactly what I needed to get the feeling I loved so much with my MT07 back; that wild, hard acceleration off the line.  With the stock 45, it just wasn't quite there.  I mean, obviously, being a CP3 it's always grunty as heck, but it just wasn't quite there.  I'd imagine for the bulk of normal people the 45 is a better way to go (or probably even lower or +1 in the front) because Normal People don't want random power wheelies.

I do ;)

Yeah, you push through first faster, but I find I just end up a bit higher in the rev band, getting it up and above 4500 and keeping it there without feeling like I have to work for it.  It's just there immediately.

I can't stop grinning.  That's just so damn much fun.  

That was exactly what I was missing.

 

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My bike's electrical wiring sometimes looks like a Rat's Nest or spaghetti Bowl but somehow it manages to get it done even though I know better having worked on wiring harnesses for missiles which is at least redundant if not more so and everything so sanitary you could eat off it and not need a diagram to figure it out

That's a very pretty sprocket again almost aircraft quality

You're a crazy man riding up there in the great white North 

In the winter of course, when it's nice out up there when it's not raining it's gorgeous but and there is a big butt I'm too old for that stuff never did it anyway which was easy enough here in Chicagoland over the last 40 years though our winters have gotten milder

how about up by you, has winter taken a recess BIG big?

 

 

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Fortunately, one upside of Calgary is that it's sunny 333 days per year.  Often freezing cold, but sunny.  There's an early summer period of storms, but even then while it drops a LOT of water, it doesn't rain long.  

Cold is way easier to deal with than rain, because simple heated gear is both more comfortable and way more effective than rain gear.  All my rain gear works, but I still end up soggy if I'm riding in it for more than 30 minutes or so.  Maybe not soaked, but soggy.  But with my heated jacket liner, helmet, and gloves?  I can ride for hours in -25c and be nearly uncomfortably hot... with no bulk!

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Got the Traxxion AK-20s installed today. They nailed the spring rate and preload settings for me. 40mm sag on the money. The recommended compression was about a half turn too hard, and the rebound was about a quarter turn too hard. The hard bumps are LOADS better, but unfortunately this has just re-emphasized how crap the rear end is. The Penske won't be in for a few more weeks.

IMG_20200714_181305.jpg

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4 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Oh, my god.

@betoney had it right.  

That 47 tooth rear sprocket is wild.  And it was exactly what I needed to get the feeling I loved so much with my MT07 back; that wild, hard acceleration off the line.  With the stock 45, it just wasn't quite there.  I mean, obviously, being a CP3 it's always grunty as heck, but it just wasn't quite there.  I'd imagine for the bulk of normal people the 45 is a better way to go (or probably even lower or +1 in the front) because Normal People don't want random power wheelies.

I do ;)

Yeah, you push through first faster, but I find I just end up a bit higher in the rev band, getting it up and above 4500 and keeping it there without feeling like I have to work for it.  It's just there immediately.

I can't stop grinning.  That's just so damn much fun.  

That was exactly what I was missing.

 

Glad you like the gearing, it makes the bike just that much more fun! 

Even though the gearing is shorter between gears, I find you can still pull a long time in each gear, and you need to try some uphill sweepers... keeping the rpm's in the sweet spot is much easier with less down shifting.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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13 minutes ago, betoney said:

Glad you like the gearing, it makes the bike just that much more fun! 

Even though the gearing is shorter between gears, I find you can still pull a long time in each gear, and you need to try some uphill sweepers... keeping the rpm's in the sweet spot is much easier with less down shifting.

This sounds like my idea of good fun. How much does it throw the speedo out by? 

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5 minutes ago, Stew said:

This sounds like my idea of good fun. How much does it throw the speedo out by? 

I’m hoping the answer to this is zero.  Can you verify that the speedometer still reads the same @Wintersdark and/or @betoney?   My understanding is the FJ speedometer reads off of one of the ABS sensors, so in theory a gearing change won’t have an impact.   

Or I could be totally wrong...  :) 

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1 minute ago, texscottyd said:

I’m hoping the answer to this is zero.  Can you verify that the speedometer still reads the same @Wintersdark and/or @betoney?   My understanding is the FJ speedometer reads off of one of the ABS sensors, so in theory a gearing change would have no impact.   

Or I could be totally wrong...  :) 

That would be perfect , if so, after my new suspension gets sorted , I'll be whacking on a 47 tooth rear sprocket.

 

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11 minutes ago, Stew said:

This sounds like my idea of good fun. How much does it throw the speedo out by? 

@Stew and @texscottyd - I ride with a GPS 100% of the time and -at least in my experience- the dash reads 2 mph difference, the same as it did with stock gearing when I bought the bike.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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1 minute ago, betoney said:

@Stew and @texscottyd - I ride with a GPS 100% of the time and -at least in my experience- the dash reads 2 mph difference, the same as it did with stock gearing when I bought the bike.

ooooh, lovely. Going by the 'speed warning signs' around here, mine reads about 2mph high.
Googling sprockets next, yippee.

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11 minutes ago, Stew said:

That would be perfect , if so, after my new suspension gets sorted , I'll be whacking on a 47 tooth rear sprocket.

 

Make sure to get a +2 link chain, obviously wait until its time for a new chain and sprockets.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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My front tire (Road 5) was carrying 40 grams of balance weight when mounted at the dealership. Above 70 mph it wasn't very smooth.

Today I played with repositioning the tire on the wheel and rebalancing it. It paid dividends! Balanced out with a single 20 gram weight and it is as smooth as glass at least up to 100 mph.  

Should have done it myself from the beginning.

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