Supporting Member betoney Posted May 15, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted May 15, 2021 58 minutes ago, roadrash83 said: The most important thing to me on engine break in, is to not lug it. Exactly. I would much rather rev it a little than ride it like Yamaha recommends. This is absolutely ludicrous: Anyway, according to the manual, the shift points are: 1st to 2nd- 12 mph 2nd to 3rd- 19 mph 3rd to 4th- 25 mph 4th to 5th- 31 mph 5th to 6th- 37 mph ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wintersdark Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 23 hours ago, betoney said: Exactly. I would much rather rev it a little than ride it like Yamaha recommends. This is absolutely ludicrous: Anyway, according to the manual, the shift points are: 1st to 2nd- 12 mph 2nd to 3rd- 19 mph 3rd to 4th- 25 mph 4th to 5th- 31 mph 5th to 6th- 37 mph Right? That's just absurd. It looks bad in kph, but it's way worse looking in mph Break in stuff is break in stuff. I feel Yamaha is just covering their asses, and I have no bones to pick with that, but I've seen a *lot* of pretty rigorous testing (including, but not limited to, that youtube video) showing that just riding the bike normally during the break in period makes no discernable difference - and indeed even riding pretty hard doesn't do anything. But that first oil change in particular is critically important. For me, personally, I tend to do two - one at halfway through the break-in period and one at the end. I feel this is probably entirely excessive and just wasteful, but really: I just like playing with my new toys 😃 But, break in threads are like oil threads: There is an official answer always specified in the owners manual, and following that is clearly not bad. Every single person has a different personal opinion, sometimes based on actual science and usually based on random very-small-sample-size experience. All actual evidence that exists shows that baring extreme variation [running at redline for 500 miles straight for a breakin/using wholly out of spec oil), basically everything reasonable works just fine and it doesn't really matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted May 16, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted May 16, 2021 On 5/14/2021 at 9:28 PM, betoney said: Anyway, according to the manual, the shift points are: 1st to 2nd- 12 mph 2nd to 3rd- 19 mph 3rd to 4th- 25 mph 4th to 5th- 31 mph 5th to 6th- 37 mph I think the manual also warns you to not drink gasoline. Which honestly is more likely to happen than for me to be in 6th gear at 37 mph. That’s borderline criminal… 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZigMerid Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 On 5/15/2021 at 10:27 AM, betoney said: 2 identical bikes A sample of one bike not run-in according to the book. Anecdotes do not equal statistics. Besides, what does "identical" mean? Assembled in the same plant, by the same people with the same care using identical components produced by the same component manufacturers with identical raw-material inputs? The notion that any two bikes are identical is absurd. Just ask racers who blue-print their engines. If they did the same test with 1,000 bikes over a long manufacturing time-period and all of them returned identical results, then they might have something to say. Otherwise their anecdote has no bearing on whether a bike that has yet to be manufactured will exhibit the same characteristics. Having said all that, I agree that the manufacturing standards are pretty high and you can likely get away without a run-in, but that's ignoring the principal that a run-in is effectively an insurance policy; for you and the manufacturer. You're basically saying no one ever needs that insurance when they buy a new bike. And you're probably right 999 times out of a 1,000. Pity the poor bunny who happens to be bike-buyer #1000 who gets a bike that does need the run-in but listens to the "no run-in needed" chattering class and ignores the manufacturers advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@forceberg.net Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 Maybe we should focus more on the Tracer 9 and less on how to properly break in an engine? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wintersdark Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 3 hours ago, nick@forceberg.net said: Maybe we should focus more on the Tracer 9 and less on how to properly break in an engine? Sooner or later, all threads become oil/break-in/tire threads. It's inevitable, you can't fight it. Embrace the uselessness! 2 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZigMerid Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, nick@forceberg.net said: Maybe we should focus more on the Tracer 9 and less on how to properly break in an engine? True. I am working my way thru the GT9 manual just to see if there is anything interesting and/or unusual to discover. Nothing so far, but I am up to the break-in part :-) Edited May 17, 2021 by ZigMerid 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@forceberg.net Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 What do you think of the gauges now in real life? Is it that obvious that they look like a pair if cartoonish glasses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zafiro Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 (edited) I like the fuel tank. So much more miles than my old MT09. Average of 4.1km/100 during normal riding. Better than my old bike. Regarding the gauges, feels like someone is watching me all the time Edited May 17, 2021 by Zafiro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpl900 Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 2 hours ago, Zafiro said: I like the fuel tank. So much more miles than my old MT09. Average of 4.1km/100 during normal riding. Better than my old bike. Regarding the gauges, feels like someone is watching me all the time I have the same average with my tracer 900....100km/1hr 155km/1hr 5.7litre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlambke19 Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 5 hours ago, nick@forceberg.net said: What do you think of the gauges now in real life? Is it that obvious that they look like a pair if cartoonish glasses? They look great. The data is crammed in there though. I want to play around with the screen brightness. It adds character to the bike, imho. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ride365 Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 (edited) On 5/14/2021 at 5:25 PM, ZigMerid said: Which is exactly why no one should listen to self-opinionated run-in advice on the Internet. A dyno run has nothing to do with an engine and drive-train run-in which takes at least 16 hours worth of riding - according to the book. Mr Yamaha definitely does not run your new bike on a dyno for nearly a day exercising all parts of the bike at varying rev ranges. Which book? In this case the Yamaha Owner's Manual which on pg 64 entitled "Engine break-in", very clearly states: "There is never a more important period in the life of your engine than the period between 0 and 1600km (1000 mi). For this reason, you should read the following material carefully. Since the engine is brand new do not put excessive..." So who you going to believe? Some random on the Internet or the engine manufacturer who wants your engine to perform properly over a long warranty period and well beyond? Yeah yeah, we all hear of anecdotes where engines go just fine without a run-in; that's why they're called anecdotes rather than statistics. Besides-which there are lots of other reasons for the break-in period. The drive-train, the brakes, the tires and more all need bedding in. Also, if there are any manufacturing faults, such as loose bolts or poorly connected brake lines and the like; much better to discover those during cautious riding than when going flat-bunny five seconds out from the dealer. So yeah, follow the manufacturer's guidance and ignore all else. I'ts to break in the rider to a new to them bike......the engine and rest of the bike doesn't care how you ride it. But hey......you and others do whatever helps you sleep well at night. So I must assume you break in a new car/truck as well just like a motorcycle? The new Tracers look great, I have no doubt they will be utterly reliable regardless of a persons OCD. Edited May 17, 2021 by Ride365 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted May 17, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted May 17, 2021 On 5/16/2021 at 1:48 AM, ZigMerid said: On 5/14/2021 at 7:27 PM, betoney said: 2 identical bikes A sample of one bike not run-in according to the book. Anecdotes do not equal statistics. "Anecdata" - data analysis on a sample of one. It's a term I learned maybe 10 years ago and very much like. But, break in threads are like oil threads How did this thread break down into a break-in thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@forceberg.net Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Back to topic! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZigMerid Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 11 hours ago, Ride365 said: So I must assume you break in a new car/truck as well just like a motorcycle? Of course, based on my Owner's manual which has dedicated subsections on the breaking-in recommendations for Tires, Brakes, Clutch and Engine. To limit the number of honkers, these are what I stick on the back window of my Ford. If you ask nicely I might be able to find a spare set for you :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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