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What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?


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30 minutes ago, betoney said:

I have never used those lugs (I grind them off with a Dremel) or drilled holes in new bars. The only alteration I do is get the bar ends threaded for bar end weights. 

makes sense, so I can assume the switch gear and such all uses the lugs like most mfgs do.    For threading the end of the bars,  are the stock bars threaded (I've not explored how the brush guards are actually mounted, I figured it was a compression fitting. 

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2 hours ago, Clegg78 said:

So, replacing the bars... when I've done that on some other bikes there was a good bit of work because the stock controls and such have lugs and holes in the bars they attached to.  How are the Yamaha controls and such, how hard is the bar swap on these?

Like @betoney I always just grind off the lugs.  I even do that when I'm not swapping bars, because aligning the controls to your neutral hand position is a critical part of bike ergonomics, and if you can only adjust controls by rotating the bars entirely you lose a lot of positioning options.  

I've literally never once had that be a problem on any bike.  Just snug the controls up and they don't move at all.

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2 hours ago, Clegg78 said:

    For threading the end of the bars,  are the stock bars threaded (I've not explored how the brush guards are actually mounted, I figured it was a compression fitting. 

I don’t have an answer for oem hand guards, I don’t use them. 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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6 hours ago, Clegg78 said:

For threading the end of the bars,  are the stock bars threaded (I've not explored how the brush guards are actually mounted, I figured it was a compression fitting. 

The OEM bars are threaded and then there is also a threaded insert that is threaded that hand guards are threaded into....

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'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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22 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Like @betoney I always just grind off the lugs.  I even do that when I'm not swapping bars, because aligning the controls to your neutral hand position is a critical part of bike ergonomics, and if you can only adjust controls by rotating the bars entirely you lose a lot of positioning options.  

I've literally never once had that be a problem on any bike.  Just snug the controls up and they don't move at all.

At the most, add a wrap or 2 of electrical tape.

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On 5/5/2021 at 11:14 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

I know it's too late for you but Race Tech sells preload washers that are about 2.5 mm thick to use to add to the spacer length without cutting new ones.  So 3 will add 7.5 mm for example.  You may find equivalent washers at a hardware store though.

Hi, curious if you're referring to the dampening rod bolt copper washers listed online?

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1 hour ago, kmh0 said:

Hi, curious if you're referring to the dampening rod bolt copper washers listed online?

No, these washers are the same approximate diameter as the spring, and fit between the spacer and spring to add preload length.

Screenshot_20210603-125227_Chrome.jpg

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3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

No, these washers are the same approximate diameter as the spring, and fit between the spacer and spring to add preload length.

Screenshot_20210603-125227_Chrome.jpg

Just so you’re aware, the spacer on our forks fits INSIDE the progressive spring at the top. So these washers may not work depending on the ID. (Someone may have to be a guinea pig and let us know if they fit)...

-Skip

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Put a hole in the oil pan. Looks like a rock hit it. 70 miles into a planned 1000 mile weekend. Just sitting waiting for AAA to flatbed the bike home. 

Can I just drop the oil pan to replace it or do I have to pull the whole exhaust?

EDIT TO ADD: AAA can't find a towing service to get the bike. It would have saved me an 1.5 hours if I would have known that and I could have gotten my son to come pick me up. So now AMA and AAA have refused to pick me up in the MS Delta. 

EDITED AGAIN: Traced the oil leak over a mile back from the traffic light where I noticed the leak. Nothing. No dip. No bump. Just a random rock.

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1 hour ago, 1moreroad said:

Put a hole in the oil pan. Looks like a rock hit it. 70 miles into a planned 1000 mile weekend. Just sitting waiting for AAA to flatbed the bike home. 

Can I just drop the oil pan to replace it or do I have to pull the whole exhaust?

EDIT TO ADD: AAA can't find a towing service to get the bike. It would have saved me an 1.5 hours if I would have known that and I could have gotten my son to come pick me up. So now AMA and AAA have refused to pick me up in the MS Delta. 

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Damn, that sucks, as an aside your oil is nice and clean. 

Now you can update to the new oil pan.

you can just loosen the exhaust, not pull the whole thing. So I've heard.

Edited by peteinpa
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