Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 31, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 31, 2021 1 hour ago, banderso said: Hi 2&3, The switch to SS lines isn't difficult. Take your time undressing the bike, unsnapping the hose clips, keeping track of the routing, and the reassembly will be fine. I suggest using a vacuum bleeder to empty the old brake lines, helps keep the spillage to a minimum. I snipped the hard lines to make it easier to remove them. The rear brake line bracket, where the rear rubber hoses attach to the blocks, was a pain. Easy to see, hard to access and remove. The Spiegler kit has you trimming the bracket. I spent 4 hours dinking around with the replacement. But hey, I'm retired and it was 14 to 30 degrees in the garage..... Bleeding took a long time. I used the vacuum bleeder along with the old manual way. I still need to cycle the ABS for the final result. Lever feel isn't as solid as I want. Won't be dry or out of the 30's for two weeks, so a final report has to wait... Also had the ECU flashed and installed. Jonesing to test it out also! See ya bill Bill, You confused me with someone changing lines currently? I installed Spieglers, a 14 R1 radial MC & 320 mm rotors with Matt's caliper spacers, another set of HH+ pads, etc. over 3 years ago along with an XSR A/S clutch and front and rear suspension. Had the ECU flashed in 17 a year after I bought my fastest red 15 new (after trying Kev's throttle dongle but hated still not being able to exceed 114). Did my 3rd set of handlebars and a McCruise a year ago, great mod! Too much to remember anymore. BTW, the Vesrah RJL-CT replaced standard race RJL but I was displeased with them, so EBC HH+ were slid with a tire change within 6 months after; much better. I have some maintenance and minor mods to do this winter but no hurry, deferring doing it lessens the stress of PMS (Parked Motorcycle Syndrome), out of sight out of... as May, maybe even June back surgery recovery wise is too far away to start thinking about "Jonesing for". 😞 See ya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banderso Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Hi 2&3, Sorry....... Texscottyd was who asked.... See ya bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 31, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 31, 2021 41 minutes ago, banderso said: Hi 2&3, Sorry....... Texscottyd was who asked.... See ya bill Don't be sorry, easy to do, hope my input helped you and others 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilo3 Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Done with the block off plates. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted February 1, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted February 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, kilo3 said: Done with the block off plates. No access issues with any other parts, wires or plumbing? just a straight swap? ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilo3 Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, betoney said: No access issues with any other parts, wires or plumbing? just a straight swap? I did take out the two upper radiator bolts for more swinging room because the left front allen was a bugger with home gamer tools. I really need to get one of those 1/4" ratchet end thingies for bits. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted February 1, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted February 1, 2021 13 minutes ago, kilo3 said: I really need to get one of those 1/4" ratchet end thingies for bits. I got this one from Lowes. Kobalt Mini Ratchet Set It has really come in handy on several occasions when you have limited access. 4 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted February 2, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted February 2, 2021 It's almost mandatory to push forward and down the radiator for a valve lash check and adjustment. Just disconnect the overflow reservoir hose and and cap the outlet nipple on the rad itself and access is relatively easy. Still have to be careful removing the valve cover out the front so as not to scratch it (and preserve the reusable rubber gasket) but very doable once you figure it out. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted February 2, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted February 2, 2021 Cuz I'm cheap, instead of fancy block off covers, I did this. The first time I checked the valves they were ALL tight at 22k mi (checked twice since with no real change), I also plumbed extension hoses to the TB venturi ports and ran them so I can at least check TB sync without touching the bodywork. Warm it up, hook up my ancient mercury vacuum gauge, and in 10 minutes I know. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilo3 Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 I think I'll drain/flush the coolant when my valves come time and just remove the radiator and give it a good scrubbing. Funny story, I've never actually had to change valves. Checked lash and that's it. Every bike I've had this far was in spec, albeit used, never new. Pulled the plugs, perfect golden marshmello, wonder what they would look like if the bike was still on the oem tune... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petshark Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Givi rm02 mudguard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petshark Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 de-branded/ungoo’d 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted February 2, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted February 2, 2021 One question, why? IMO as an engineer, such fenders not only add unsprung weight but it is also significantly cantilevered, highly stressing the fixing point and extension assembly. Plus it's a large wind catcher, not particularly effective in its intended function, can snag passing whatever, and throws a wrench in front/rear weight bias. And I could go on. A conventional, properly designed and manufactured hugger that is longer than OEM, or a hugger extension, made from thermoplastic or a carbon fiber composite is much lighter, aerodynamic, and functionally more effective. I have a Pyramid CF extension that cost me like $24 that works great. And this is ignoring aesthetics, as beauty is in the eye... Which is a primary reason I presume not assume why you installed the Givi unit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Well...At least it has handlebars. All you guys down south laugh it up. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said: One question, why? IMO as an engineer, such fenders not only add unsprung weight but it is also significantly cantilevered, highly stressing the fixing point and extension assembly. Plus it's a large wind catcher, not particularly effective in its intended function, can snag passing whatever, and throws a wrench in front/rear weight bias. And I could go on. A conventional, properly designed and manufactured hugger that is longer than OEM, or a hugger extension, made from thermoplastic or a carbon fiber composite is much lighter, aerodynamic, and functionally more effective. I have a Pyramid CF extension that cost me like $24 that works great. And this is ignoring aesthetics, as beauty is in the eye... Which is a primary reason I presume not assume why you installed the Givi unit. Dude, you have been on a roll questioning people’s work and mods lately. It’s a fender. Deep breath... Let it go 🙂 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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