peteinpa Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 1 hour ago, koth442 said: Generally, you're right. Your situation is an outlier. I've got to call foul on this. The front always wears out way before the rear. The front turns 3 to four times faster than the rear and puts all that torque down with 8 teeth at once. On my CBR1100XX I'd go two chains and 2 front sprockets before changing the rear sprocket. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormR Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 (edited) 20 minutes ago, peteinpa said: I've got to call foul on this. The front always wears out way before the rear. The front turns 3 to four times faster than the rear and puts all that torque down with 8 teeth at once. On my CBR1100XX I'd go two chains and 2 front sprockets before changing the rear sprocket. I’ve always swapped out both sprockets when replacing the chain. IMO it always made sense to spend the extra $$ to insure the sprockets were right even if they looked ok. A worn sprocket will eat up a new chain pretty quick Edited January 22, 2021 by NormR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbles Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 9 hours ago, Scoti said: Helibar handle bar risers , very expensive but they fit . ebay Chinese ones I bought went into scrap metal bin ,didn't fit and had corrosion marks , . What made you decide to get risers? The stock position is pretty tall already. I'm going to move the bars to their forward position this weekend in hopes that'll be more aggressive in the twisties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salish900 Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Bike is now at 2,300 miles and today I installed the EBC HH front brake pads. I've used these on all of my previous bikes. Went ahead and bled the front brakes as the oil was factory and the bike is a 2019 of uncertain manufacturing date. I see a post above about bar risers and I'll add that I'm 6'2" and added bar risers first thing, and I now sit fully upright, which I wanted. I don't do anything aggressive enough to sacrifice every day comfort for improved aero or handling. Something else I did, but yesterday, was install my new clip on wind deflector I got from Pazoma. I had already purchased a new windshield from National, but it was still marginally too short for my tall frame. I tried this clip on and wow, that thing really works and is solid. No vibration and it smooths the airstream so I no longer get helmet buffeting even though the height of the total system is still below my line of sight to the road about a car length in front of me. I'm happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo miller Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Thanks for that post! I'm 6'2 also and have same problem. Which model of Pazoma did you get, please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoti Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/23/2021 at 4:27 AM, Bobbles said: What made you decide to get risers? The stock position is pretty tall already. I'm going to move the bars to their forward position this weekend in hopes that'll be more aggressive in the twisties. Im so used to the sit up position of my old Tenere and Super Tenere Tigers etc . I had a supplier in Northern Australia so a bit cheaper than US . Its good ,took it for a run last night before dusk . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whisperquiet Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 It is raining today so I installed a new rear tire. I mounted a new Michelin Pilot Power 2CT and it was one of the easiest tires ever mounted. I balanced the bare rim first (took 21 grams) and after the tire was mounted required only 7 grams more to static balance out perfect. I still have 3/32" tire tread depth on the front Pilot Power 2CT (they come with 5/32") which should have me wearing out the front and new rear around the same tire next time. The new rear has 7/32" tire tread depth new. I got 4465 miles out of the rear FYI. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 For the least amount of weight, balance the bare rim, mark the heavy spot, it's never the valve stem, and put the tire dot (light spot) there. Once you mark the heavy spot on the bare rim it never changes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whisperquiet Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 There was no tire spot on the Michelin Pilot Power 2CT rear tire I mounted today. This is the first tire I mounted on the Tracer. I use Bridgestone Battle Wings on my Super Tenere and they rarely require more than 1/2 oz of weight to balance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted January 25, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 25, 2021 Installed the revised left side plastic and 1 rubber tab cover to replace a torn one. Hopefully it won't crack. My parents got me the Brake Free helmet brake light they saw on Shark Tank as an early birthday gift. Raining today so I don't know how sensitive it is yet. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilo3 Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Pulled the AIS, waiting on block off plates to arrive. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 I've got block off plates on order also.👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 25, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 25, 2021 14 hours ago, kilo3 said: Pulled the AIS, waiting on block off plates to arrive. I presume you checked valve lash, TB sync, replaced the plugs, etc while you had the tank off? You could have removed the AIS valves, removed the screw retaining the reed and reed stoked, applied HT RTV silicone to the green mating surface, flipped the reed stopper over and reinstalled the screw instead of buying block off plates. Some silicone in the AIS nozzle would be belt and suspended. More (if easy) work and not readily reversible but cheap and foolproof. I've done it on Hondas too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilo3 Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 3 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said: I presume you checked valve lash, TB sync, replaced the plugs, etc while you had the tank off? Nope, removing the tank is a trivial task and none of these are required, well I might do the TB sync just for giggles. 3 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said: You could have removed the AIS valves, removed the screw retaining the reed and reed stoked, applied HT RTV silicone to the green mating surface, flipped the reed stopper over and reinstalled the screw instead of buying block off plates. Some silicone in the AIS nozzle would be belt and suspended. More (if easy) work and not readily reversible but cheap and foolproof. I've done it on Hondas too. Yeah, but then you left with the stupid pipes coming out of the block. Gives you a lot more swinging room when all the junk is gone for removing the cover. If I was lazy and cheap I would have just shoved a marble in the AIS hose and called it a day. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 25, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 25, 2021 39 minutes ago, kilo3 said: Nope, removing the tank is a trivial task and none of these are required, well I might do the TB sync just for giggles. Yeah, but then you left with the stupid pipes coming out of the block. Gives you a lot more swinging room when all the junk is gone for removing the cover. If I was lazy and cheap I would have just shoved a marble in the AIS hose and called it a day. You mean the little OEM AIS covers with their spigots on the valve cover? Oh yeh, they're HUGE! What are you swinging around under there, and who sees them once buttoned up? I have no problems changing the plugs by simply slipping forward the radiator and those covers are a non-issue. Be sure to seal and cap the AIS port under the air box.... I also index my spark plugs. LOL BTW, I plumbed extension hoses to the TB ports so I can check sync without touching the tank. While not comparatively horrendous, I find pulling the bodywork and tank on the FJ a PITA in comparison to my VTR and RD. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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