skipperT Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 12 hours ago, Clegg78 said: You think using something like this on a ratchet would help? (would still take a while, but was curious). Probably not. Best option is a ratcheting wrench, stubby or regular length. These are the ticket if you really want to torque the fastener in place, instead of good and tight: CTG102MTAS - 10 Piece 3/8" Drive Metric Torque Adapter Set, 12 Point - Cornwell Webcat I prefer these to a crows foot (what you posted) but every situation is different. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clegg78 Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 2 hours ago, skipperT said: Probably not. Best option is a ratcheting wrench, stubby or regular length. These are the ticket if you really want to torque the fastener in place, instead of good and tight: CTG102MTAS - 10 Piece 3/8" Drive Metric Torque Adapter Set, 12 Point - Cornwell Webcat I prefer these to a crows foot (what you posted) but every situation is different. -Skip Makes sense, honestly, I have been trying to find a reason to own a set of the crows feet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted May 3, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted May 3, 2021 16 hours ago, Clegg78 said: You think using something like this on a ratchet would help? (would still take a while, but was curious). I thought about a crows foot, but didn't have one on hand. It looks like it would work, but I think the stubby wrench or @betoney's suggestions are better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clegg78 Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) Just pulled my new Ohlins rear shock to have the starting preload adjusted by my guy. this was way easier than I thought it would be. I used a write up from here (that uses a technique echoed above). No stubby wrenches needed Shock install - solo method | Yamaha MT-09 / FZ-09 Forums So I spent a few minutes studying the shock and linkage area... The biggest issue I had so far (haven't reinstalled it yet) was getting the top bolt out as its covered in tubes and cable runs. I removed the lower link bolt which made everything a snap... no removing the rear wheel, etc... I used the center stand and have a 2x4 under it for some additional clearance. Total time to remove was probably 25min. Edited May 3, 2021 by Clegg78 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clegg78 Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 Just reinstalled. Used the front mount in-first method. With the lower rear link bolt out. I used a low profile floor jack to precisely raise the rear tire to get everything aligned. I did use the shorty 14mm but didnt really need to, I seemed to get a good bit of movement out of a full size gear wrench that I had on the other side. Toughest part was getting the bolt in under the top of the rear arm, just fidgety shit. Other than that it took ~ 45min to get the shock in and fully mounted not counting the time to put the fender back on, and set sag. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wintersdark Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 Hoverbike! Took the wheels in to have the tires changed. Went in with my road 5's, but saw a set of T32's on hand there decided I'd give em a go. If I die horribly in a twisted wreck of flaming metal, I'm haunting @betoney And while I'm at it, off come the forks for some quality spring changing. Here's hoping that works out well! 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clegg78 Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 6 minutes ago, Wintersdark said: Hoverbike! Took the wheels in to have the tires changed. Went in with my road 5's, but saw a set of T32's on hand there decided I'd give em a go. If I die horribly in a twisted wreck of flaming metal, I'm haunting @betoney And while I'm at it, off come the forks for some quality spring changing. Here's hoping that works out well! That's how I do it as well! ( I use the handlebars but using the frame guards looks like a better option! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted May 4, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted May 4, 2021 14 minutes ago, Wintersdark said: Hoverbike! Took the wheels in to have the tires changed. Went in with my road 5's, but saw a set of T32's on hand there decided I'd give em a go. If I die horribly in a twisted wreck of flaming metal, I'm haunting @betoney Lol, I claim NO RESPONSIBILITY. 😄 The T32's are brand new, I haven't tried a set yet. I will wait for your analysis on their performance. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wintersdark Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 Yeah, it's not suspended by the straps, but they're there to save me a lot of stress when wrenching. The weight is on the floor jacks (header H pipe and one of the engine guards) but the straps ensure bumping the bike isn't going to result in tears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wintersdark Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 10 minutes ago, betoney said: Lol, I claim NO RESPONSIBILITY. 😄 The T32's are brand new, I haven't tried a set yet. I will wait for your analysis on their performance. Whoops, T31's, the previous version. Mostly just because I feel my Road 5 rear won't last till winter, and the set of T31's cost roughly the same as a new rear road 5 - and paying the $50 to mount my old road 5 then shelling out another $50 this summer for the inevitable replacement seemed a waste of time. Eventually I'll get a changer so I can hopefully manage swapping rubber myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilo3 Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 @Wintersdark How many miles did you get on your road 5's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draco_1967 Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 I went for a short lunch-time ride yesterday. I discovered the Barkbuster brackets can cause an issue with the clutch safety switch and the MC Cruise. I tried to engage the cruise, and nothing happened. Fortunately, MCC includes an easy diagnostic at the control switch: hold the power button for 10 seconds, and the red LED will flash a code. It turns out the Barkbuster bracket was pushing on the wires from the clutch switch enough to disconnect the splitter wire that goes to the MCC brain. I quick adjustment of the angle on the handguards fixed the issue. Also, I do love how that new white vinyl sparkles in the sun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draco_1967 Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 11 hours ago, betoney said: Lol, I claim NO RESPONSIBILITY. 😄 The T32's are brand new, I haven't tried a set yet. I will wait for your analysis on their performance. I'll let you know how they are when I swap tires. I bought a set of T32s for the tracer during the rebate period last month. With the rebate, a set of T32s cost a few $ more than a single rear Road 5. I know the Michelins are good, but I don't know if they are worth the difference for me. I've been really happy with the AX41 on my Dirt Ninja. Really grippy on the road and give a lot of confidence in the dirt. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted May 4, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted May 4, 2021 12 minutes ago, draco_1967 said: It turns out the Barkbuster bracket was pushing on the wires from the clutch switch enough to disconnect the splitter wire that goes to the MCC brain. I quick adjustment of the angle on the handguards fixed the issue. This sounds like yet another reason to recommend the single-point Barkbuster mount, it wouldn't cause this problem. You may want to check that the wire and ferrule are still in good condition. This sounds to me like a problem that will come back. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wintersdark Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 11 hours ago, kilo3 said: @Wintersdark How many miles did you get on your road 5's? They're still certainly useable, so I don't know yet. I put 15,000 kilometers on sets as a fair average, but that's with still a significant amount of tread left over the wear bars; but because I'm paying $50/tire to have them mounted, it's often not worth re-mounting them when they are that worn when I can sell the used tires for $50 each. I really need to get myself a tire changer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now