What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?

[2and3cylinders]

I have that MP thing and even with good light I can't see well enough...need one of those laser jobs.

[fjray]

On 7/20/2020 at 10:12 AM, Nashtele said:

I took the stock panels apart and sprayed them with Plasti Dip Luxury Metal Spray (Black Sapphire) with a light top coat of Plasti Dip 11212 Glossifier.  I sprayed over the tracer bashing which gives it a raised, “ghosted” look and I reattached the Yamaha emblem using 3M Super Strength Molding Tape.

I chose the Plasti Dip because it can be removed and doesn’t damage the original silver panel.  The Black Sapphire has a touch of metallic so it blended very well with the other pieces on the bike.  

Pictures?  TIA

[kilo3]

+2 in the rear because racecar, wait I mean motorcycle, sorry I'm new to this two wheel speed thing.

[Nashtele]

18 minutes ago, fjray said:

Pictures?  TIA

I had them in the original post but here are a couple more...

(Unfortunately, I didn't think to take any pics of the process)

[fjray]

Thanks for the pics, Nashtel.  I liked the gold forks before I saw what you did.  Nice.

[SKYFLIX]

I'm not sure if this is really in line with the theme of this thread, but since I installed it ON the bike, then I figured I'd share. I wanted a secure way to mount my 360 camera which would give a nice view all around - front, rear and sides. Not only for aesthetics and artistic reasons, but also to serve as a sort of "dashcam". The only way to do that was to get it up high enough. I tried using the Insta360 collapsible stick, but it did a better job of collapsing than being a stick. So, I came up with this solution. A 1" thin walled PVC pipe is mounted to my givi top box using conduit straps, bolts and some silicone sealant. To which is inserted a two-part pole made of 3/4" and 1/2" pvc, joined in the middle with a simple coupler (not glued). The top of the pole has a threaded plug which I've slotted to allow a USB cable to run down the entire length of the pole, and out the bottom. This then runs to an SAE USB power plug under the seat. This allows me to keep the camera powered and recording for FAR longer than the built-in battery could ever hope to. The whole assembly breaks down and can be stored in the top box. With some simple PVC pipe fabrication, the camera could be mounted off to the side, or down low. Really just as creative as you want to get.

[2and3cylinders]

Believe it or not, I kick my leg over my Shad SH46 top box getting on and off.  With your pole that's not possible.  With my back problem it's hard (once aboard I'm golden) enough getting on and off, and I can't do it kicking or sliding off straight over the saddle.  In almost 50 years I just never developed the knack.

 

Interested to see some video or stills with your thingamabobby though.

[SKYFLIX]

My back hasn't allowed me to throw my leg over in almost 2 years. I actually mount from the right side. Right foot on the peg and step through. Only way I can get on the darned thing. My first ride with the pole showed that a friction fit for the two halves isn't sufficient. The pole separated and the only thing holding the camera on was the USB extension. Phew! Close call. So now I've pinned the two halves with a set screw. I'll upload a quick sample to youtube and share the link tomorrow.

#UPDATE: Here's a video:

 

Edited July 24, 2020 by SKYFLIX
Added video

[2and3cylinders]

I have been developing a technique whereby I put it on the centerstand, step my left foot on the left peg and swing over my right foot onto the right peg, adjust the private parts and sit down smuggly.  Then I put my left foot down and keep my right slightly on the peg but with part of my right thigh against the back of the tank.  I suddenly shove both grips and push with my left foot while staying light on the saddle with the front wheel slightly to the left, and as soon as it starts to roll off the centerstand, I grab the front brake.  It's scary because you don't want to fall over, especially to the right.  It often takes me a couple or more tries, and I feel stupid when that happens but it works.  Getting off is still a problem but I park it on the side stand near a gas pump, wall, solid fence, door or pole, then lean off left with upper body placing my left hand on the immovable object, and somehow slide my right leg over the saddle without falling on my but.  Still very embarrassing...  Aint old age wonderful?

[Clegg78]

Fitted an old Bags Connection tank bag (probably 4L or less... just for small things) and it fit with my custom phone mount solution.   Then I found some action cam/gopro like camera I forgot I bought a couple years ago and threw it on a RAM ball mount and went for a ride to test it around Red Rocks and a few other places.  (and to test out the FJR1300 foot pegs, and the comfort of the tank bag. 

Hot as heck out... dash read 103F while riding back home (Hence my old, crappy mesh jacket just for rides like this). 

[Michiel900GT]

I had my seat adjusted today. Did it with the previous Tracer 900 GT and decided to do it again with the new one.

I had two things adjusted: flatten the curve of my seat and had it filled with gel.

The first picture is after the foam for the seat was placed. They then created a place to add the gel and filled it with medical grade gel.

They covered it all with a thin layer of foam and placed the original seat cover back.

The good thing is it "only" cost me around 250 euro. Much less though than a Bagster seat.

 

 

Edited July 23, 2020 by Michiel900GT

[betoney]

@Michiel900GT - Looks good, I hope it works well for you.  It was such a revelation after I had my seat built, after suspension it is the best money I spent on the bike.  A lot of people balk at the cost of a custom built seat but how valuable is all-day comfort?  😎👍

[rodb47]

2 hours ago, Michiel900GT said:

I had my seat adjusted today. Did it with the previous Tracer 900 GT and decided to do it again with the new one.

I had two things adjusted: flatten the curve of my seat and had it filled with gel.

The first picture is after the foam for the seat was placed. They then created a place to add the gel and filled it with medical grade gel.

They covered it all with a thin layer of foam and placed the original seat cover back.

The good thing is it "only" cost me around 250 euro. Much less though than a Bagster seat.

Let us know how it worked.

[Wintersdark]

On 7/21/2020 at 8:13 PM, Yamajank said:

Realized my lousy service shop tightened my chain way too much.  Spec in book says it should be between 35-45mm and it’s less than 15!  And it seems out of alignment also.  I felt like there was more vibration and I hope there wasn’t any real damage done.  I can’t fix it until I get a socket big enough...27mm?  Ahhh.  They were doing a 4K service and did not do a throttle body sync because they said the diagnostic tool told them it wasn’t necessary.  Is that even possible?  I think they were just too lazy to do it.  Thoughts?

Fortunately, even cheap tool shops(harbour freight/princess auto) sell impact sockets in that size individually, so it's pretty easy to get one for just a couple dollars.  Don't strictly need an impact socket, but given they're like cup-of-coffee money, it's probably best to have a beefy one: sometimes dealers torque them on really tight.

Get one, and get it soon.  Running too tight can damage your bike - I'm not sure if 15mm is enough that you'll remove all the slack at full suspension compression (really bad) but when too tight, you're putting tons of strain on the engines output shaft.  

 

Chain maintenance is really important, and will save you a lot of money.  Replacing chains and sprockets frequently gets spendy, but if a chain breaks it can do bad things: 

 

[betoney]

On 6/19/2020 at 3:21 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

Curious to hear how accurate it is and if you have leakage from the caps, which to me is a huge worry.  I presume the caps depress the valve, so there could be leakage, if they crack but stay on the leakage could be fast.

@2and3cylinders - An update on the TPMS.  Since I am on the mend and haven't ridden in a few weeks, I decided to try the system out on my car instead.  I installed them on the front tires in the exact same manner as I would on the bike and have been using them all week.  So far, I have no complaints, as I drive I can see the pressure rise to the +10% and the temperature reading fluctuates accordingly.

The ONLY thing to mention is when you park the car it holds that reading until the car moves again, meaning when I get in the car in the morning it is still holding the +10% "warm' reading and holding the temperature at say 87F from the night before.  Once I back out of the driveway and drive down the street then it updates to the 'real time' pressure and temperature readings, usually within 30-50'.

I haven't noticed any pressure drops or slow leaks, the readings have been consistent every day this week.  Hope that helps.