What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?

[texscottyd]

4 hours ago, 1moreroad said:

New RS2s are cheap in every sense of the word. After this pair is worn out, I won't by discount sport touring tires ever again. And I generally like Dunlops. 

I think Dunlop really confused the market with the recent RoadSmart series.  Best as I can decipher, it seems the RS II and RS III are completely different categories of tires, with the RS III being a premium dual-compound sport touring tire (touting long life and great grip).  Meanwhile the RS II is a bargain price point single compound tire, lacking the grip (and longevity?) of the RS III.   

What really confuses me is that there were apparently two generations of RoadSmart II.   The early models sounded to be a higher-end product, while the newer ones are significantly cheaper (and you get what you pay for).   Can anybody verify this, or please correct if I’m misunderstanding the evolution.

I only have a few hundred miles on my new RS IIIs, but I like them so far.   Noticeably different characteristics than the Michelin Road 5s they replaced, but I think I’ll adapt to them well.  

 

[Wintersdark]

12 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Indeed they are.   I’ll write up a detailed evaluation after I get a few more miles on them, but my initial impressions are favorable.   The steering behavior is very different from the Michelins I’ve been running, as the profile of the front seems to be much more round on the Dunlop...  it’s different.  Not necessarily better or worse, just different.   

I noticed this immediately when I bought my Tracer.  It came with stock Dunlops, which I hadn't used in probably a decade or more. They felt enormously different from the Michelins I've been running for the last few years.   I initially assumed it was just how the Tracer handled, though I swapped over to my winters pretty early on (which have their own handling eccentricities) and forgot all about it. 

I don't even really know how to describe it, but they definitely feel very, very different.  

I wish tires weren't so expensive, as I'd really love to just swap tires all the time to experience all the different types.  But I really like my Road 5's, and really don't want to invest $500 in a pair of tires I end up not liking.

[limpy88]

Hand washed her for the first time. Usually just pressure wash. And clean and lubed the chain. The wind screen was so full of bugs I couldnt see through it. Lol

[1moreroad]

8 hours ago, texscottyd said:

12 hours ago, 1moreroad said:

New RS2s are cheap in every sense of the word. After this pair is worn out, I won't by discount sport touring tires ever again. And I generally like Dunlops. 

I think Dunlop really confused the market with the recent RoadSmart series.  Best as I can decipher, it seems the RS II and RS III are completely different categories of tires, with the RS III being a premium dual-compound sport touring tire (touting long life and great grip).  Meanwhile the RS II is a bargain price point single compound tire, lacking the grip (and longevity?) of the RS III.

You are right. Old RS IIs were Dunlops best sport touring tires at the time replaced by the better RS IIIs. New RS IIs use the same tread pattern as the old ones - that's why they can reuse the name. That's where the similarity ends. Different rubber. Different factory. I read somewhere (maybe here?) that the new RS IIs were designed to be Shinko competitors. 

I don't ride as hard as some folks here and do a lot of straight commuting miles, so I was willing to try lesser tires. My concern is the slipping. I've managed to slide the front and rear on our local traffic circles which kills my trust in the tires.  I end up wobbling into corners instead of committing to them because I'm feeling for sliding and ready to straighten the bike back up. 

It doesn't help that I'm on the stock suspension and getting bouncy rebound out back coming out of the traffic circles and crashing compression in front on pavement seams.

[knyte]

On 5/8/2020 at 9:09 PM, Wintersdark said:

Post-winter oil change done!  

I still can't believe having Yamaha ship me an oil change kit was cheaper than buying the filter and oil locally or via Amazon.  $50 for the filter, 3l of oil and a new crush washer (also gloves and funnel, actually) with free 3 day shipping.

To the Americans in the group - yeah, oil, particularly MC oil is spendy here.  Typically around $15/l.  

It's a downside of winter riding - all the cold starts is pretty hard on your oil, so it's a good practice to change it moving into spring.  

A side note.  Wtf is it with Yamaha and stock oil filters being absolutely CRANKED onto the bike?  Torque is supposedly 12ft-lbs for the filter, but every stock filter I've taken off has required basically total destruction of the filter in the process.  Also, 32ft-lbs for the drain bolt?  In that aluminum pan?  Eeeeeeeh.

<snip>

Thanks for the tip, had no idea that Yamaha would do that.  And, yes, very competitive pricing.

...in a former life I was a lube tech in Calgary for a big-name company.  Oil filters do not need to be torqued on like they're holding the whole damn car/bike together!  ...frustrates me to no end when some shop over-tightens the filter, then I have to change the oil one day and need to pound a screwdriver through the filter in order to un-do it.  GR!!  All it needs is about 1/4 turn past contact with the gasket.  That's it!!  Same with the oil plug...slightly hand-tight is plenty!

/end rant

Thanks again for the oil change kit tip

And what did I add to my FJ-09 ?  Chain/sprockets - then some bugs from Edmonton to Red Deer and back.  Fantastic weekend for a ride down HWY 21.

Edited May 19, 2020 by knyte

[2and3cylinders]

14 hours ago, betoney said:

I had taken the grab handles off a long time ago, during the stay at home order I found them on a shelf in the garage so I decided to get creative.  I cut the front extended portion off to make them a little more sleek and since I like my bike to be a little unique, I chose to paint them silver to add a bit of contrast to all of the black on the back end.

The front and rear LED signals are X-Arc

X-Arc Lights - the brightest LED Brake lights, turn signals, tail lights

The license plate frame is made by VoloLights, it has a built in accelerometer which detects deceleration or forward pitch and the LED flashes brightly.  Just one more safety device. 🤷‍♀️

Vololights Review

---

The Vololights "Brakeless Deceleration Indicator" The Vololights Brakeless...

I also have the Blaster-X tail light, running light LED's all the way across instead of just the sides and programmable for different flash patterns.

2015-2017 Yamaha FJ-09 Blaster-X Integrated LED Tail Light – Custom LED

---

Yamaha FJ-09 Integrated LED Tail Light and Turn Signal with Blaster-X...

 

Thanks.  I'm happy enough with my OEM TS with the very bright LED bulbs.

The Vololight does not seem ready for prime time per the 2015 WBW review; did yowh have the same issues?  As I said I have an auxiliary led brake light strip around The edge of the rear rack that brings it up higher, closer to cater eye level but more is better.  I actually had many years ago a Volo plate surround light that did not flash and was connected to brake light power but it failed after not too long.

The Blaster T/BL-TS unit seems to have been improved since I last looked at it.  Did you get the TS splitter cables.  I'm not convinced integrated TS aren't too much/confusing for half brain dead mouth breathing cagers.  Your thoughts?  Did you get the programming switch?  I got confused by their description of its really necessary.  The video for the FJ09 sucks, I'd be embarrassed to have it on my website. As I stated, I already have a low-load TS relay. 

 

[Wintersdark]

53 minutes ago, knyte said:

Thanks for the tip, had no idea that Yamaha would do that.  And, yes, very competitive pricing.

...in a former life I was a lube tech in Calgary for a big-name company.  Oil filters do not need to be torqued on like they're holding the whole damn car/bike together!  ...frustrates me to no end when some shop over-tightens the filter, then I have to change the oil one day and need to pound a screwdriver through the filter in order to un-do it.  GR!!  All it needs is about 1/4 turn past contact with the gasket.  That's it!!  Same with the oil plug...slightly hand-tight is plenty!

/end rant

Thanks again for the oil change kit tip

And what did I add to my FJ-09 ?  Chain/sprockets - then some bugs from Edmonton to Red Deer and back.  Fantastic weekend for a ride down HWY 21.

What madness is this!?  A another 'local' FJ?  I thought mine and the Blackfoot tech's where the only ones in the province!  That brings us to three!

[betoney]

23 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Thanks.  I'm happy enough with my OEM TS with the very bright LED bulbs.

The Vololight does not seem ready for prime time per the 2015 WBW review; did yowh have the same issues?  As I said I have an auxiliary led brake light strip around The edge of the rear rack that brings it up higher, closer to cater eye level but more is better.  I actually had many years ago a Volo plate surround light that did not flash and was connected to brake light power but it failed after not too long.

The Blaster T/BL-TS unit seems to have been improved since I last looked at it.  Did you get the TS splitter cables.  I'm not convinced integrated TS aren't too much/confusing for half brain dead mouth breathing cagers.  Your thoughts?  Did you get the programming switch?  I got confused by their description of its really necessary.  The video for the FJ09 sucks, I'd be embarrassed to have it on my website. As I stated, I already have a low-load TS relay. 

 

I have had no issues with the Vololight, I had to change the sensitivity lower as, according to my riding buddies behind me, it was flashing all of the time.  2 years in, still works as advertised.

The Blaster has a lot of options for programming and they can be confusing, I just left it on the default setting.  I wired it so it works in addition to the turn signals so they work exactly like in this video.

 

[texscottyd]

3 hours ago, 1moreroad said:

Old RS IIs were Dunlops best sport touring tires at the time replaced by the better RS IIIs. New RS IIs use the same tread pattern as the old ones - that's why they can reuse the name. That's where the similarity ends. Different rubber. Different factory.

Is it just me, or is that a really bad move on Dunlop’s part?   It was only after someone I know & trust mentioned the RoadSmart III that I even considered them, and it still took some convincing (and a bit of faith).  Turns out they’re great tires, lost in the shadow of next-gen RS II disappointment.   Odd...  

For what it’s worth, getting the suspension upgraded will really let you sort out the nuances of the various tire options.  The stock D222s on my 2015 FJ were mediocre at best, but not a bad match for the stock suspenders.   With the upgraded shock & forks, good rubber becomes a necessity. 

[fr8dog]

17 hours ago, 1moreroad said:

New RS2s are cheap in every sense of the word. After this pair is worn out, I won't by discount sport touring tires ever again. And I generally like Dunlops. 

I bought a set and have to agree. Wasn't aware of the difference. Pretty sketchy going aggressively into a corner/turn.

The stock Dunlops were better and also had a set of Shinkos that performed well.

What to try next? Maybe the RS3's or some Bridgestones.

[betoney]

4 minutes ago, fr8dog said:

What to try next? Maybe the RS3's or some Bridgestones.

I have been using Bridgestones for a few years now, currently on my 5th set now.  Great tires, especially considering the price, I have never paid over $250 (including sales tax) for a set, combine that with their twice yearly $60 rebate and they end up being $190 a set.

Pirelli Angel GT is another great tire to consider.  I have nothing but great things to say about them.

[fr8dog]

Went to Braaap Suspensions this morning. He's local here in Boise. Trying to sort out my Nitron shock.

I feel kind of stupid, but I gained some knowledge. I've read here some of the things we talked about, but being able to ask questions in person and to have things clarified was great.

So basically when I thought I was turning the adjuster knob for rebound/compression I was probably going in the wrong direction. Ended up 5 clicks the other way. The ride home felt better. Need more time to evaluate.

He's not too crazy about combined rebound and compression adjustment. I get it. I was thinking for my type of riding I could get by with the shock I purchased.

We'll see how it goes. He's an Ohlins dealer so that may be in my future.

 

[Wintersdark]

56 minutes ago, betoney said:

Pirelli Angel GT is another great tire to consider.  I have nothing but great things to say about them.

I've never ridden a bike with the Angel GT's, but everyone I know who's run them has raved about them.  If I where to mix things up and try another tire, it'd be these.

[BBB]

57 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

I've never ridden a bike with the Angel GT's, but everyone I know who's run them has raved about them.  If I where to mix things up and try another tire, it'd be these.

I’ve been using the Angels and they were great, but trying Metzeler Roadtec 01 now and they are equally impressive so far.

[piotrek]

3 hours ago, fr8dog said:

Went to Braaap Suspensions this morning. He's local here in Boise. Trying to sort out my Nitron shock....The ride home felt better. Need more time to evaluate.

Glad you found your way (kinda) with the Nitron. I remember that mine came from the factory set at 12 clicks out (CCW), and it felt like it wanted to punt me off the seat over bumps. I progressively backed it out until the rear behaved (17 clicks), and then adjusted the front to suit. The damping clicker has a range of 24 clicks... experiment. 🙂

Edited May 19, 2020 by piotrek