kilo3 Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 Bingo, size 11. I can get the main peg right at the transition between arch of foot and ball. But that's it. My heel backs right into the cast aluminum part above the passenger peg. I was going to grind off the aluminum where the passenger peg was but it turns out that the whole bracket is just in the way. I might revisit this someday but for now, oh well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted June 27, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted June 27, 2021 I’m getting familiar with this view: Replacing a dead USB socket. Again. At least it’s a quick job… I went with a slightly different one this time, with USB-C port in addition to the voltmeter and standard USB-A. We shall see how this one holds up… 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilo3 Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Burned up the last miles on my road 5's today. Just over 6k out of them to kiss the wearbars. My boy even got into the action. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted June 28, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted June 28, 2021 I like the lack of buffeting when I stand up so I tried Dremeling the OE screen down almost as short as possible. Without some screen it just looked unfinished to me (did a track day that way). I followed the same lines as the original screen then rattlecanned it. I need to do a little trimming, round it off a little better, and at least another pass of paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokamoto Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Tried figuring out the control settings on my ‘21 Tracer 9 GT yikes🤪! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted June 28, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted June 28, 2021 4 hours ago, texscottyd said: I’m getting familiar with this view: Replacing a dead USB socket. Again. At least it’s a quick job… I went with a slightly different one this time, with USB-C port in addition to the voltmeter and standard USB-A. We shall see how this one holds up… I feel you're pain, I'm on my 3\rd too. Good IDEA TO ADD THE USB-C P or 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petshark Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 9 hours ago, texscottyd said: I’m getting familiar with this view: Replacing a dead USB socket. Again. At least it’s a quick job… I went with a slightly different one this time, with USB-C port in addition to the voltmeter and standard USB-A. We shall see how this one holds up… I’ve had this same one for a few months and it’s still going strong. Does it also have the full cover with the led shining through? A much better design IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted June 28, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted June 28, 2021 4 hours ago, petshark said: I’ve had this same one for a few months and it’s still going strong. Does it also have the full cover with the led shining through? A much better design IMO Yes, it has the full cover, with a transparent area for the voltmeter to shine through when the cover is closed. I got this one from Amazon for about $15 with next day delivery, and am hopeful it stays together a little longer than the prior two. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petshark Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Had my ECU flashed, then took the long way home on a three hour trip on rural roads by the sea. Great fun! Again thanks to @Wintersdark because the skills I got from your TBS tutorial saved me some money! I made a deal with the tuner to quickly remove all fairings myself to get the ECU. I took a small selection of tools and did it in their shop. I loved how much faster I was compared to the first time and they seemed impressed as well. (could just be my ego talking 😅). Anyway, my confidence level is up, that is for sure. Next up: replace my almost threadless dunlop RSIII's with the PR5's I have lying around. And then to the Alps! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted June 29, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted June 29, 2021 It's hard to read the dyno chart. So max hp went down slightly when the AFR was smoothed. What are the before & after hp & t figures, and which shop dit it? thx 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhchris Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 On 6/26/2021 at 4:50 PM, 1moreroad said: Installed the new oil pan. ...... my 1st SW Motech 2 piece was badly bent shipped from Revzilla. What? The skid plate was damaged in shipping??? Not a good sign for its usefulness under the oil pan! WTF? 1 1968 Triumph Bonneville 650 1971 Norton Commando Roadster 2002 Harley 1200 Sportster 2003 Honda ST 1300 2016 FJ 09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garybinnyc Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 7 minutes ago, nhchris said: What? The skid plate was damaged in shipping??? Not a good sign for its usefulness under the oil pan! WTF? I’ve had very good experience with RevZilla.. OP should contact customer service I’m sure they would have taken care of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhchris Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) My point was.... if the skid plate can't withstand shipping -- no matter how rough -- without bending, how's it gonna behave when it meets a rock, curb, speed bump, etc.!! I've read here a few sad stories about SW Motech skid plates failing under pressure. Edited June 30, 2021 by nhchris 2 1968 Triumph Bonneville 650 1971 Norton Commando Roadster 2002 Harley 1200 Sportster 2003 Honda ST 1300 2016 FJ 09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clegg78 Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, nhchris said: My point was.... if the skid plate can't withstand shipping -- no matter how rough -- without bending, how's it gonna behave when it meets a rock, curb, speed bump, etc.!! I've read here a few sad stories about SW Motech skid plates failing under pressure. So…. If you look at what almost any of these are… they are meant to bend and give at the mounts…. If they don’t, they will likely break your engine block mounting points. None of these attach to frame hard points so there is no way for a pan like this to not fail and also not damage the engine on a severe hit. the cheap eBay ones will fail like tin cans, the sw-motec 7000 series aluminum is very strong by comparisons, but the mounts are still designed to bend and flex before you engine block fails. Those mounts can be bent in shipping, they are just stamped steel. I reinforced my motec plate with steel and some cushioning rubber because I know that in a strong hit it will compress onto the sump, and wanted something to spread the impact energy over more. Don’t confuse the plate as more than what it is. Edited June 30, 2021 by Clegg78 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petshark Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said: It's hard to read the dyno chart. So max hp went down slightly when the AFR was smoothed. What are the before & after hp & t figures, and which shop dit it? thx This was done by Tovami in the Netherlands using Woolich Racing software. I'm just learning all this stuff but as I understood it the Tracer has little more than 100 hp at the wheel so 114hp at the wheel with standard exhaust seems pretty great. It feels more powerful but that is torque I guess. There was no baseline done as they didn't see the point. This is still a factory setup with standard exhaust and air filter so those stats are standard and they have them in their system. I also told them that power gains were not important to me, I did this to smooth out the fueling and get rid of the on/off feel. the "after" (graph 2) reads:Power max = 113.6 at 10279.8 rpm Torque max = 91.6 at 8192.6 rpm The one going through all gears (graph 1) reads:Power max = 114.4 at 198.9 km/h (123.6 mph) I quickly tried to find a baseline online... I know it's a different dyno but just for reference I found this 2015 with with full AKRO: Before 103.9 HP (I've found this to be the standard HP on other Dyno sheets) After 109.2 HP Edited June 30, 2021 by petshark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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