What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?

[betoney]

37 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

I’m stripping the bike down to (finally) install the steel brake lines.  

Damn, that has been some SERIOUS procrastination. 😎

[texscottyd]

2 minutes ago, betoney said:

Damn, that has been some SERIOUS procrastination. 😎

Yeah, it’s been one of those ‘tomorrow’ projects for something like 2 years now.   

After I finish this, I’ll send my 2017 taxes to the IRS!  😇

[texscottyd]

22 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

Man, I kind of want AIS blockoff plates purely so I can get rid of that stupid AIS module and make plug changes way easier.

I hope this is it, because it’s gone now...

😳

[roadrash83]

Are you going to do the 320mm rotor upgrade @texscottyd why you have the system apart?

[texscottyd]

18 minutes ago, roadrash83 said:

Are you going to do the 320mm rotor upgrade @texscottyd why you have the system apart?

I actually did the big brake upgrade a couple of years back... about the same time I bought these Galfer steel lines.   

EBC 320 rotors, HH pads, and stock rubber lines:

I can hear the Sesame Street song playing in my head:  “One of these things is not like the others.  One of these things just doesn’t belong...” 

[draco_1967]

I said goodbye to the pumpkins, installed an STS auto signal canceling module, and a Backoff brake license plate frame that I pulled off my FJR years ago. 

 DRL

Turn

I forgot to get a pic of the rear. Red running light and amber turn signals. 

Then I started fitting Tenere switches to run the MCCruise like @dazzler24 did. His notes have helped tremendously. I need to wire up a loom to go between the MCCruise brain and the switch to house all of the resistors (not even going to try fitting them into the switch pod. 

[dazzler24]

On 4/11/2021 at 1:47 PM, draco_1967 said:

Then I started fitting Tenere switches to run the MCCruise like @dazzler24 did. His notes have helped tremendously. I need to wire up a loom to go between the MCCruise brain and the switch to house all of the resistors (not even going to try fitting them into the switch pod. 

Yes, getting those resistors out of the switchpod and down at the other end near to the McCruise control box is definately on my 'to do' list.  While it works fine ATM it can, and will, be done better.

Probably the next time the tank has to come off so I can get some access.

[texscottyd]

Someday in the future, my kids will be sorting through my shop, and will find literally hundreds of random gems like this.   It’s my way of paying it forward for them not cleaning their rooms when they were younger:  

[2and3cylinders]

1 hour ago, texscottyd said:

Someday in the future, my kids will be sorting through my shop, and will find literally hundreds of random gems like this.   It’s my way of paying it forward for them not cleaning their rooms when they were younger:  

 But do they clean their rooms now that they are older?

[2and3cylinders]

On 4/10/2021 at 2:31 PM, texscottyd said:

I hope this is it, because it’s gone now...

😳

 When I checked the valves the second time, instead of buying block off plates, I flipped over the AIS reed valve stops and HTV silicone the reeds closed & plugged the cover nozzles with slugs of silicone.  The K&N caps are just for looks and adhered on with silicone.  With the radiator unbolted and pulled forward I can easily change the spark plugs.

In one of my below photos I've identified those two clear capsule thingies, do you know what they are???  I once knew but of course cannot now recall their function.

When I checked the valves the first time, I connected vacuum hoses to each of the throttle body vacuum ports.  These hoses have barb fittings at their opposite end with the OEM rubber caps on them.  I leave them zipped tied up to the inside of the front of the left frame next to the left side of the air box.  It makes at least checking TB sync a 10 minute deal.

[skipperT]

15 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

In one of my below photos I've identified those two clear capsule thingies, do you know what they are???  I once knew but of course cannot now recall their function.

They’re main harness wiring splices. Neat to see how they’re all twisted and woven together through the clear cover. Yamaha changed the construction of the splices after the FJR ground wire/ign switch recalls.(at least I think that’s why they’ve been changed). The “cap” style with a multi pronged male connector that joined 6 or 8 or 10 or 12 female connectors together as one was prone to corrosion. 

-Skip

Edited April 12, 2021 by skipperT

[i_ride45]

On 4/8/2021 at 4:37 PM, Wintersdark said:

It helps a lot to wrap or plastidip those white panels matte black, so they match the side pieces below the tank.  I wrapped, @Dodgy Knees plastidipped his, and it makes the bike look a lot better:

That said, it turns out you can just order new panels entirely in whatever color you want (that Yamaha makes them in, so red, red-orange, white, blue, black, and silver) for about $250CDN.  I've got black ones on the way.

Where can you find these side panels?

[2and3cylinders]

2 hours ago, skipperT said:

They’re main harness wiring splices. Neat to see how they’re all twisted and woven together through the clear cover. Yamaha changed the construction of the splices after the FJR ground wire/ign switch recalls.(at least I think that’s why they’ve been changed). The “cap” style with a multi pronged male connector that joined 6 or 8 or 10 or 12 female connectors together as one was prone to corrosion. 

-Skip

THANKS, I THOUGHT SO LOOKING AT THEM CLOSELY BUT WASN'T SURE

[3sum]

What did I do to mine today? Put it on Road Atlanta with the Yamaha Riders Championship School and realized early I have some habits to break and some to develop. 

[Clem Fandango]

Installed new mirrors. They stay put and don’t vibrate.  I think they look better than the stockers too.