What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?

[Warchild]

5 hours ago, texscottyd said:

I think one more ride & quick bleed, and the Galfer brake line install will be done.   Honestly, it wasn’t nearly as difficult as I feared...  

 

 I was very much wanting to do this also... but that initial "block" fitting (from brake lever to the fitting, located just behind the triple tree, pointed to by red arrow below) gave me a lot of pause. So how did Galfer handle this? I assume they are using some suitable substitute, or even a different method to handle this... yes?

 

[Warchild]

11 hours ago, texscottyd said:

My name is Scott, and I endorse this statement...   

😃

I have that exact Scott Shock Setup[tm] on order, and it should be here before the end of May. Also doing Ohlins up front -  the  NIX 30 cartridge kits, sprung to specification. Together, this is a painful procurement - very painful -  but if I keep the bike for 10 years, it should amortize well.  🙄  Yes, I know I am reaching here, but that got a laugh from Warchild-wife, which I translated as "Get it, honey!"  😆

 

 

[dazzler24]

25 minutes ago, Warchild said:

 

 I was very much wanting to do this also... but that initial "block" fitting (from brake lever to the fitting, located just behind the triple tree, pointed to by red arrow below) gave me a lot of pause. So how did Galfer handle this? I assume they are using some suitable substitute, or even a different method to handle this... yes?

 

IIRC the Galfer system is self contained.  i.e. all the lines run from A-B and don't use any of the block interfaces that the OEM lines use.  Much simpler installation all around.  Ask me how I know!

[texscottyd]

@Warchild - I just retrieved the stock lines from the trash can to give you a visual of what’s going on there.  Those blocks are actually the ends of the factory rubber lines, and they bolt together in pairs through a U-shaped bracket.   There are three pairs of these on the bike:  Under the triple clamp (what you pointed out), inside the frame where the metal lines dip down on the left side, and at the rear subframe on the right (next to the shock).   

As @dazzler24 says, these get tossed with the new Galfer lines, and are replaced by new rubber coated retaining clips that come with the lines.   Not a great picture, but this should give you an idea:  

Helpful install tip:   Just cut the original metal lines out...  I cut them just behind the steering stem, and again where they turn down below the frame member.  I would suggest doing the rear lines first, so you’ll get a better understanding of how those hose  block ends work.

[Warchild]

Outstanding, gentlemen, I am a candidate for these lines... are the credit card cools off from the Ohlins procurement...  😥

[ontheroad]

1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said:

That is up only isn't it?

 Without the blipper module for down too?

 With a McCruise you can't use a quick shifter at all :-(

Yes only up shifts.

[betoney]

2 hours ago, Warchild said:

 

 I was very much wanting to do this also... but that initial "block" fitting (from brake lever to the fitting, located just behind the triple tree, pointed to by red arrow below) gave me a lot of pause. So how did Galfer handle this? I assume they are using some suitable substitute, or even a different method to handle this... yes?

 

1 hour ago, dazzler24 said:

IIRC the Galfer system is self contained.  i.e. all the lines run from A-B and don't use any of the block interfaces that the OEM lines use.  Much simpler installation all around.  Ask me how I know!

Spiegler does the same as Galfer, completely bypasses the blocks and uses one line from MC to ABS pump and one line from ABS pump to caliper on front and back.  Much cleaner install and allows for extra pieces to be removed from the bike and fill up the trash can. 👍

[Heli ATP]

10 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

That is up only isn't it?

 Without the blipper module for down too?

 With a McCruise you can't use a quick shifter at all :-(

Not sure what you mean? I have both a McCruise and Yamaha OEM Quickshifter on my 2017 and it works perfectly for up shifts.

[Heli ATP]

Added some Dzell Knuckle Guard LED's. Nice clean white lights, really like the look...

[koth442]

Today, I said good-bye to my FJ. The new owner seems like a very pleasant guy. I'm sure they'll be a great pair. I already bought the replacement in November, a 2011 blue / white Daytona 675. Buy in Nov, sell in April as the adage goes.

[fjray]

Enjoy that Daytona.

[Waldo Jeffers]

Installed new HeliBars. Will try tomorrow. 

[Warchild]

Took the Tracer out for some high-speed runs on my personal racetrack out in the High Desert. First time I did this, still had the hard bags mounted and those ridiculous factory D222 tires. Backed off in the high 90's because the bike felt too flighty.

Without the hard bags and now with fresh RoadSmarts mounted, ran it up to 124 IAS  before I saw a car in the distance and backed off. Naughty Warchild.  😁

Many gnats and bugs sacrificed in the Name of Speed:

 

Back in the stable, I gave the driveline some TLC. A clean chain is a happy chain...  🔥  🔥  🔥 

 

[2and3cylinders]

12 hours ago, Heli ATP said:

Not sure what you mean? I have both a McCruise and Yamaha OEM Quickshifter on my 2017 and it works perfectly for up shifts.

I have a 15 so a 17 QS is not an option.  I was told by 2 different QS mfgrs that their units WITH the down blipper would not play nice with the  McCruise, seriously so.  Not interested in just an Upper only, as the CP3 gear box shifts slick enough without the clutch, and actually can go down without fanning too if you're careful / skilled... 🙂

[2and3cylinders]

1 hour ago, Waldo Jeffers said:

Installed new HeliBars. Will try tomorrow. 

Which Rizoma bars are those? Thx