What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?

[suitedsevens]

I've got shorty both sides. I 3 finger the clutch and two (or one) finger brake.

 
 
I am also running a full shorty set and at first I figured I'd use 2 fingers on both but quickly found myself with 3 on the clutch and it feels perfect.

[koth442]

 Ya' know, its funny you mention that.  You would think that there would be no use for heated grips for another 3 months.   
Last week I took a road trip into Northern California and in the Sacramento Valley it was up to 111-113 degrees during the day, coming back North, I stayed the night in Bend, Oregon - near 4,000' elevation, high desert. 
 
It was mid-40's when I got on the road the next morning and I was FREEZING since I was ill-prepared wearing summer vented gear (lesson learned) - the heated grips were a life saver in mid-July!!

Did something similar a few years back. We left Sac at night, stayed the night in Weed CA. It was COLD (probably upper 40's, but windchill and summer gear..). Then again the next night in Klamath Falls OR. Relatively cold as can be at night but blazing hot during the day. However I did not have heated grips

[Brian V Paigo]

Added Shad sh36 side cases

 

 

 

[spartacus]

I hacked the stock exhaust for a little more volume and a lower overall tone. I achieved about 80% of what I wanted—could have been louder and deeper! But it worked out fine for a free mod.

How exactly did you hack the stock exhaust? You take a drill and drill small holes in the baffle or something?

 
I removed the exhaust, cut a window in the rear top portion behind the mounts, and removed the tubing connecting the muffler wall to the exhaust tip. Then we cut an additional 1.75" dia hole in that partition wall that basically leads to the catalytic converter. It makes it more straight through, with the expense of a few pops and bangs (coming to a stop, downshifting into 3rd and 2nd below 3k rpm or so).
 

 

 

 

[DavidS]

Installed the R&G Racing Radiator Guard. Started getting worried about something hitting the radiator while riding, and figure this was cheap insurance. I cleaned the radiator best I could, and then proceeded to the install.
 
Installation wasn't that hard, but the instructions were not very helpful. Took about 30 minutes, most of which was me scratching my head. It looks good, will test ride in the morning.........

[kdimitris]

I removed the exhaust, cut a window in the rear top portion behind the mounts, and removed the tubing connecting the muffler wall to the exhaust tip. Then we cut an additional 1.75" dia hole in that partition wall that basically leads to the catalytic converter. It makes it more straight through, with the expense of a few pops and bangs (coming to a stop, downshifting into 3rd and 2nd below 3k rpm

 
You can cut the exhaust tip and replace it with a 2’ inch pipe.
Will give you more low tone...
 
 

[angrygirafe]

Dropped the bike off for the 24k mile service, and told them to go ahead and do the valves as well. Guess I just gotta sit on the beach for today.

[enx]

Today I mounted shorter number plate holder,
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
difference...
 
 

 
 
and the other day, adventure foot pegs.
 
 

[koth442]

Nice work and sweet E46. I think that's my favorite generation of the 3 series.

[fj09newbie]

92 degrees here and i just ordered grip heaters.

which grip heaters, or heated grips did you order?

[BBB]

@fj09newbie if your budget will take it, the Yamaha kit is brilliant and they integrate into the dash display for controlling them.

[suitedsevens]

@fj09newbie if your budget will take it, the Yamaha kit is brilliant and they integrate into the dash display for controlling them.

+1 for the OEM kit. Wish I knew this sooner but you can also adjust what level between 1-10 you want your 3 notches to be. I think I have mine set at 2,3,4

[mftic]

92 degrees here and i just ordered grip heaters.

which grip heaters, or heated grips did you order?

Sorry, you are correct.  OEM style heated grips.  The head of the service department argued AGAINST OEM and said to go with Oxford.  Don't know why as everyone here sounds happy with theirs. I probably won't install mine once they come for a couple months.  Just want them on hand so if i do find the time....
 
*installed grip heaters on another bike couple years ago.  They worked awesome.  As long as the grips themselves last i think the OEM should be even better then what i used long ago.

[2linby]

I took off my GIVI windshield and put the stock shield back on. It's just been too hot and having the extra air in my face is nice this time of year.  Oh and I changed the oil.  

[Panther6834]

Today was "install electrical accessories day", although, technically, not everything installed related directly to being 'electrical'. With the exception of the ground block (from Twisted Throttle), everything came from Revzilla.
 
Kicking off the installations was a RAM Mounts Torque Bar Mount (more on this, below), mounted on my GIVI S900A SmartBar, plus a pair of R&G Racing Bar End Sliders. Next up was a ground block (installed under the pillion seat, just in front of the rear brake light), which has 8 12V O-Ring attachment points. After the ground block came a Dual-USB port (one 2.1 Amp + one 1 Amp), installed where Yamaha invented a second 12V "cigarette" power adapter. Moving to the other side of the bike, a harness for a Garmin Zūmo 595LM (mounted onto the RAM Torque Bar Mount) was installed on the left side of the GIVI SmartBar (a GIVI S920L SmartClip is installed on the right side, leaving more than enough room for two 3-way switches for auxiliary lighting, which will be installed in the coming months).
 
Finally, to "control" the power of all current/future accessories (except for theMCCruise Cruise Control, due to its 30 Amp fuse), I installed a Rowe Electronics PDM60, which is "hidden" under the pillion seat lock mechanism. For those not familiar with the PDM60, it stand for "Power Distribution Module, w/ 60 Amp maximum current capacity", and can have a maximum of 6 accessories attached to it. Programming the PDM60 is done via a proprietary USB cable (you MUST disconnect PDM60 from battery whenever programming). Think of it as a circuit breaker for motorcycles...although it can also be used with ATVs, cars, trucks, etc.
 
The ground wire for the PDM60 was connected to the ground block, leaving enough remaining ground block connections for 7 accessories (when I have additional time, I'll reroute the cruise control's ground wire, which leaves 6 remaining ground points, equal to the 6 connections on the PDM60). For those who like the idea of a motorcycle "circuit breaker", but don't like the idea of having to disconnect it from the battery ever time you add/remove an accessory (because you have to reprogram the unit EVERY time you add/remove accessories), Rowe Electronics just released a second version, AmpLink PDM, which uses an app to program the unit via Bluetooth 4.1, and for which (from what I understand) you don't need to disconnect it from the battery. There are a few other differences, but, to me, the $50 difference ($200 for PDM60 vs $250 for AmpLink PDM) wasn't worth it.
 
Maybe, in the coming years, with further advancements in micro-electronics, bikes will start being released with PDMs installed by the manufacturers, replacing the plethora of fuses, as this would not only save money over the bike's lifespan, but, in working together with the ECU, and other core electronics, the display could, potentially, display info of where electrical problems are occurring. This would not remove companies, such as Rowe Electronics, from the equation, as aftermarket PDMs would still be needed for aftermarket accessories. As for my "day", I spent so much time working (and washing, once finished) on the bike (as well as taking care of a few personal matters, including a ticket for doing in the carpool lane with only me in that limousine...don't ask...lol), that I didn't have time to hit the road. Oh, well...maybe next Sunday.